what do think the best starter rifle is?

Mr. Friendly

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you can pop and suggest actual model's or comment on features you think a beginners rifle should have. feel free to add comments you think are pertinent as well. :)

edit - I'll add to that as being a larger caliber centerfire. let's take for granted that they have had a .22LR for sometime practicing and learning how to shoot.
 
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Is it for a kid, teenager, woman, or grown up man? What do they intend on shooting with it? Paper, steel, coyotes, deer, bear, elephants?
 
Beginners rifle?

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Too many factors to consider, and not enough information from your end.

What are you going to hunt? Where? How big is the beginner? Male or Female? Their actual shooting/hunting experience? Once in a lifetime rifle? How much do they want to spend? Secondary uses? Recoil sensitivity? Reloading?

Lets assume that your beginner is in your location. That is British Columbia. You have Large White-tail Deer, Mule Deer, Elk, Moose, Cougar, Wolf, Sheep, Goats, Black Bear and the big brown furries that can eat you (Griz).
I lived for almost 20 years in the Fernie-Cranbrook-Creston area, so I am familiar with what is useful.

Anything that will shoot a 150 grain bullet at 2700 FPS Muzzle velocity will take all of the above. It is not Ideal for the Griz, but this rifle is for a beginner. A .375 H&H would not be suitable for a beginner.

A bolt action rifle is a bit simpler to use and understand. You have a choice of long action (30-06) or short action (308) sizes. My calibres of choice would be 30-06, 308, 270, 280, 7-08, 7mm Mauser, or 8mm Mauser. I definitely would not recommend a Magnum calibre for a beginner.

Now, let's assume that only factory ammunition will be used. If you are in a city that has a good gun shop, all of the above calibres are available. However, if you are not, have only the local hardware store for ammo, or if you travel and want to buy a box of ammo if the airlines lose yours, then this would cut the .280, 7-08, 7mm mauser and 8mm mauser from the list.
This leaves the 30-06 Springfield, 270 Winchester, and 308 Winchester.
These calibres are to be found almost anywhere in the world today.

I prefer the .308 for the shorter action, although there is nothing wrong with the other two. I would go for the 30-06 rather than the .270 because you can get or load a heavier bullet just in case you do run into old Griz. You can also get heavy bullets for the .308. My favorite rifle was a .308 Ruger International Carbine with a 18 1/2 barrel. I had no problem dumping an elk or moose with it, most of them with one shot.

So, we are down to 308 and 30-06. Most game is shot at less than 200 yards, so 300 yards maximum should be our criteria, especially for a beginner. While there is a lot of argument about velocity, energy and such, for all practical purposes an animal hit with either the 30-06 or the 308 using the same bullet will give the same results. You will get arguments such as "the 30-06 shoots 1.4 inches flatter at 300 yards. or something similar." Hell, I can not see what 1.4 inches looks like at 300 yards! What I am talking about is actual field experience over 55 years of hunting. Not what I read in some book or words passed along to me. Everyone has an opinion, this one is mine.

Next is the budget. Rifle prices have skyrocketed in the last 10 years. You can spend $1000 for a rifle or you can spend $350 for a rifle that will do practically the same thing. For a beginner, a good serviceable rifle, one that will do the job for several years, should not cost an arm and a leg. Spare parts, warranty, accessories, and other factors come into play. An average Remington, Ruger, Tikka, Browning, or such is in the $750-$850 range, then you have to add a good scope, sling, case, and cleaning equipment.

Probably the sleeper out there today, and one of the "Best Buys" is the Stevens 200. It is available in .308 and 30-06, and costs about $350. I have one in .223 that shoots under 9/16 inch groups at 100 yards, and one in 7mm-08 that stays in the inch area at 100 yards. It's not real pretty like a wood stocked rifle, but for a hunting rifle, it does the job. You can spend the difference in costs on a good scope and binoculars. Steiner Military Marine Binoculars cost about $250 and a good Bushnell or similar scope will cost $200-$250.

So, for the cost of one of the other rifles ($800 range), you can have a good hunting rifle, scope, binoculars and probably some ammunition.

Now, there are a lot of people out there that will tout their personal choices, but they have the money, or have upgraded. We are talking about BEGINNERS here. Most of us started out with an old Cooey .22, used it and got good with it, and then upgraded after a couple of years. We did not start off with a Cooper, Kimber, or Winchester 52. The same with higher powered rifles..........a 30-30 or a .303. We then used our experience to select a more suitable firearm for our personal needs and hunting.

My opinion. Hope this helps.
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A generic question, gets a generic answer.

A bolt action in .270, .308 or .30-06 is probably the most popular configuration out there. Stevens and Savage are the best bang for low $$$ guns. Most big brand names make great guns these days. Pick the one that feels the best in your hands, meets your fancy, your budget, shoulder's well, and gives you good sight acquisition. You'll have quite a few to choose from.
 
I think the best first rifle, is one that is fun to shoot. That lets out those chambered for a lot of the harder hitting cartridges.
A lever, or pump 22 would be good. They are tons of fun, and hold a lot of ammo, so you can blast away. Gets the shooter more interested.
Not as boring as a bolt gun, and less problematic than a semi.
 
Single shot cooey 22 and a single shot 410. Then move to a lighter recoil centerfire--243, 260, 7mm-08, 25-06, 270, 308. 260 is awesome, BTW.

Remmy model 7, ruger compact (but a little heavy), or synthetic bolt action.
 
Even your generic, hypothetical "new shooter," should have some more incormation given. If it is someone just learning to shoot, especially a young person, the choice should be between a pellet rifle and a 22.
Don't laugh. The most important thing that should be taught is safety, and that can be taught on a pellet rifle, or a 22, bolt action, either single shot, or used as a single shot.
Do not even dream of starting out a brand new shooter on an autoloading 22. Or a hunting type centre fire that will scare them and make them into a career flincher.
After they have become an accomplished shooter on a 22, they can start to think about a centre fire. Remember, they will never become an accomplished shooter by constantly shooting from a solid rest.
They should start out shooting from the prone position, with no rest for the rifle, then advance to the other standard shooting positions.
And when might they be considered accomplished? One of the better ways is to be watching their target with a spotting scope. After each shot, ask the shooter where the bullet went. When a shooter can can call his/her shots, they are well on the way to becoming a good shooter and time to advance to maybe a larger calibre.
 
If you are on a real budget for a first centerfire rifle, a milsurp, modified or otherwise in 303 british or 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser makes for a good first deer rifle on a budget. I wouldn't pay more than $200 for one, otherwise I'd buy a low end new rifle like a Stevens 200. But the cost goes way way up when you switch to a scoped rifle from one with iron sights. Like someone said on another post, its not the arrow its the indian. There are many reasonable choices out there from lever action 30-30's to bolt action milsurps. If you get to know and trust your rifle and understand its limitations you don't have to drop a lot of coin to get started.
 
I think that if more hunters tstarted off thier centerfire shooting career with a 223, we;d have more competent shooters out there...

Although they should probably switch up to something a little larger for actual hunting.
 
A generic question, gets a generic answer.

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