I will agree the fact that the most important thing about a hunting rifle is how it fits YOU the shooter. When talking about what makes a functional stock, as long as you can't pull the forend into the barrel (touching) while using sling support offhand for example. Or material, such as wood that changes with humidity. Everything else is just looks, or ergonomics. The latter of which...again see the first point, not brand or composition specific. To say that a hunter is at risk of wounding game because he shoots a browning, remington, tikka, is beyond ridiculous. Notice how I didn't mention the axis, I think that awful trigger could actually cause a person to miss lol!
what do you classify as a 'premium' hunting rifle?
- Thread starter Mr. Friendly
- Start date
I've dropped lots of "premium" synthetic rifle stocks on BC rocks. Mcmillan, Bansner, B&C and a few others. None of them got holes in them.
Well, I think that "premium" is going to mean different things to different people. Some folk are going think that their grand daddy's old Savage lever action is the only rifle a man will ever need, other people will think a premium rifle is one you have to save up all year to buy. Other people think of premium as being what they put in the fuel tank of their car.
For me, I'd say a premium hunting rifle has the following qualities, relying on the supposition that "hunting" involves more than lying on a futon at one end of a cut line waiting for something to walk into the line of fire:
-Able to be comfortably carried as long as necessary. A 30lb benchrest rifle might be able to pick which ventricle to hit five miles out, but you sure aren't going to want to carry it all that distance.
-Does not need to be upgraded to perform any reasonable function. By this I mean you should not have to go out and upgrade the trigger and sights and change the stock.
-Does not inconvenience the user in the pursuit of it's intended purpose. This is a big one, but at the same time it is the most ephemeral. Sure it might have the best craftsmanship in the world, but if you have to carry an umbrella to keep it dry, or cancel hunts and backtrack around rivers, it's not premium. If you need to carry a gunsmithing kit with you at all times, and you need to use a microscope to inspect for dirt and fouling it's not a premium hunting rifle.
-Excels at the purpose for which it was designed. If the gun fails in the reasonable performance of it's intended use, it's not premium. Some manufacturers have great warranties because that's the only way they keep customers, others have great warranties because they're confident their products will not fail.
-Function must be at least comparable to form. If it is only premium because it has unicorn horn inlaid grips and was carved from Yggdrasil by blind virgins during an eclipse, it's not premium. Just the same as how a 2x4 duct taped to a 100 year old barreled action might be the most functional and reliable gun ever, it's not premium.
You might have noticed I left it fairly open ended, that's intentional.
A well-made .22 that costs $700 might be fully as equal a premium rifle as a custom chambered rifle that costs $10,000 and shoots bullets that cost $20 each. Premium is not a dollar value, premium is a combination of many factors. Some guns cost $10,000, other guns are worth $10,000. There's a difference.
For me, I'd say a premium hunting rifle has the following qualities, relying on the supposition that "hunting" involves more than lying on a futon at one end of a cut line waiting for something to walk into the line of fire:
-Able to be comfortably carried as long as necessary. A 30lb benchrest rifle might be able to pick which ventricle to hit five miles out, but you sure aren't going to want to carry it all that distance.
-Does not need to be upgraded to perform any reasonable function. By this I mean you should not have to go out and upgrade the trigger and sights and change the stock.
-Does not inconvenience the user in the pursuit of it's intended purpose. This is a big one, but at the same time it is the most ephemeral. Sure it might have the best craftsmanship in the world, but if you have to carry an umbrella to keep it dry, or cancel hunts and backtrack around rivers, it's not premium. If you need to carry a gunsmithing kit with you at all times, and you need to use a microscope to inspect for dirt and fouling it's not a premium hunting rifle.
-Excels at the purpose for which it was designed. If the gun fails in the reasonable performance of it's intended use, it's not premium. Some manufacturers have great warranties because that's the only way they keep customers, others have great warranties because they're confident their products will not fail.
-Function must be at least comparable to form. If it is only premium because it has unicorn horn inlaid grips and was carved from Yggdrasil by blind virgins during an eclipse, it's not premium. Just the same as how a 2x4 duct taped to a 100 year old barreled action might be the most functional and reliable gun ever, it's not premium.
You might have noticed I left it fairly open ended, that's intentional.
A well-made .22 that costs $700 might be fully as equal a premium rifle as a custom chambered rifle that costs $10,000 and shoots bullets that cost $20 each. Premium is not a dollar value, premium is a combination of many factors. Some guns cost $10,000, other guns are worth $10,000. There's a difference.
How can you argue fit and function when you've never experienced proper fit or function? And just an FYI, but most if not all injection moulded stocks can by "pulled" into a barrel with many types of rests. Give me a 1.25" gun any day of the week that will hold its zero from +30 to -30 over one that is a 1/4 inch of the bench but shifts zero when the sun droops behind a cloud.
You don't need to touch the fore end to the barrel to change the point of aim. The thing about many injection molded stocks, is that the point of impact can change with temperature, especially the stocks that use a pressure pad in the fore end. The injection molded stocks may not absorb moisture like a wood stock, but many of them are no more stable in changing conditions that a wood stock.
That's quite a statement there. How is you know what I've experienced? I own, have handled, have hunted with many different styles of rifle. Here's another way of thinking about it. I find buying a hunting rifle a lot like buying a pair of boots. I go to a store will quality options, try them all, and then pick the one that fits best. I would never order a pair I've never tried. How does an average person try a premium rifle, HS precision, Nosler etc. for fit. You know how...you order one and then brag how its the best cause its "premium". Like ordering 700 dollar boots from Italy that you've never put your foot in.
I was never fitted for a gun. Most or all rifles and shotguns that I purchased/utilized seemed to fit me well and I never had any compromises at the range or in the field. The only exception is my Ruger #1 with eye relief, however I have adjusted myself to shoot it properly (at the range) to prepare myself for the field without modification to the rifle. However fit, come on........maybe for a serious bench rest or trap shooter.
.......the Fudd sarcasm is strong in this reply......................How many trucks you bagged?
A "Premium rifle" is one that when you want to go hunting you look at it and wonder if it is "too premium" to hunt with, or if you do go hunting you get beyond stupid trying not to ding it.
This could be a $1000 rifle package or a $50,000 rifle package: it's more up to you.
I have only one in this grouping, and that is more because the $1600 Franchi shotgun fits me so perfectly I would be mad/pissed/cry if I had it break to the point of needing to find a replacement.
This could be a $1000 rifle package or a $50,000 rifle package: it's more up to you.
I have only one in this grouping, and that is more because the $1600 Franchi shotgun fits me so perfectly I would be mad/pissed/cry if I had it break to the point of needing to find a replacement.
This thread has motivated me to aquire a true premium rifle, one meeting my criteria of "premium". I'm going to have my Sako Safari A IV restocked by an exceptional stockmaker I know, in an absolutely stunning piece of AAA walnut. The metal work already qualifies but the stock is very plain and light colored. It will be identical in shape and dimension to the original but in an exhibition grade, with ebony forend tip and a Neidner skeleton grip cap and a presentation black recoil pad. This rifle fits me so well that when I close my eyes and throw it to my shoulder and open my eyes the sights are perfectly aligned.......not many guns fit like that.
And of course it is in 375 H&H, the most classic caliber available.
Gatehouse....how come you drop so many rifles, I try very hard not to drop things that cost well in excess of $1000 and have glass on them costing the same or more. And I've hunted some very rugged country over the years. I remember taking a nasty tumble while goat hunting but rather than drop my rifle I took the fall on my shoulder and my rifle never touched the ground. I care for my rifles like they are new born babies when I'm out hunting, I guess not everyone does the same.
And of course it is in 375 H&H, the most classic caliber available.
Gatehouse....how come you drop so many rifles, I try very hard not to drop things that cost well in excess of $1000 and have glass on them costing the same or more. And I've hunted some very rugged country over the years. I remember taking a nasty tumble while goat hunting but rather than drop my rifle I took the fall on my shoulder and my rifle never touched the ground. I care for my rifles like they are new born babies when I'm out hunting, I guess not everyone does the same.
It's up to you if you want to sacrifice your shoulder instead of letting a hunting rifle get a scratch on it. I'm more interested in keeping the non replaceable things (like body parts) functioning properly.
If you hunt blacktails in November in the steep coastal mountains, slips and trips in the wet slush is par for the course. You aren't always going to be able to pamper your gear. .
Certainly the right terrain and climate for synthetic and stainless. Dings and scratches do happen on hunts like this, I'm just more concerned about my scopes getting knocked than the odd mark on a synthetic stock, or scape on a satin stainless barrel.
The only time I can honestly say my scope got knocked out of zero on a hunt was when a horse rolled on my rifle that was still in it's scabbard. The Bushnell Elite 3000 got whacked out of zero. My own fault for leaving the rifle in the scabbard when I stopped for lunch when I knew better, but the horse had proven trustworthy until then. Can't really trust horses to not be horses though.
So I started using Leupold scopes and I can't think of any instance when one was knocked out of zero by banging it around on a hunting trip, although I am sure someone has done it.
Regardless, it's almost impossible to not beat up your rifle where I hunt, so I've never felt the need to treat good gear like a newborn baby. If I have to pamper it, I don't want to own it.
So I started using Leupold scopes and I can't think of any instance when one was knocked out of zero by banging it around on a hunting trip, although I am sure someone has done it.
Regardless, it's almost impossible to not beat up your rifle where I hunt, so I've never felt the need to treat good gear like a newborn baby. If I have to pamper it, I don't want to own it.
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