What do you think of the muzzle crown on this brand new .44 Mag rifle?

That honestly looks twice as good as a savage I had that still printed under Moa all day with handloads. My 30-06 shots 1"- 1 1/2" and its crown look like it spent its life tube down on the dirty truck floor. In my case it's purely cosmetic and I would think so with yours considering the limits of the cartridge, it's no bean field rifle.
 
It is my opinion that your picture of the crown is not in the original condition that it left the manufacturer in. Perhaps unbeknownst to you someone saw fit to improve upon the muzzle for their own personal gain or education but there's no way a manufacturer is going to the trouble of finishing a rifle by way of the blueing process and then attack the muzzle with an after thought. Sorry I smell a rat, DH.

Agreed somebody wrecked your crown. I had a brand new bolt action somebody had ground the backs of the bolt lugs i had to pay gravel for a new fitted bolt. I dont blame them it was obviously not done at the factory somebody wrecked it and returned it i think.
 
As I said before, this is the second rifle -- I sent #1 back with a furniture problem. The first rifle had a similar un-blued crown -- but I recall it being concentric enough that I didn't notice anything wrong. It's very strange how they are cut after bluing.

To those who insist it doesn't matter: Fair enough. Thanks for the input -- but I'm going to find out for myself.... Not because I think I'm right, but because I don't want a crooked crown and the test will be interesting... I seriously doubt that guys who hunt down south with .44 Mag revolvers have such crooked crowns and don't care. I want this rifle to be as good as it possibly can... The whole idea is to see how good it can be. I'm not even saying it matters... but it's debatable.

The barrel is coming off for me to fix it. Will it just unscrew and then screw back on (with the correct vises)? It looks very straight forward... Unscrew it.. Turn in the lathe... Screw it back together until the sights are on top.... Check headspace. Tell me if I'm wrong. Where's the rocket science?

I'll face a little off so the crown doesn't look so big.

As a (home) machinist, I can't figure out how this fault even happened... unless it was done with an un-piloted chamfer tool and the fool on the tool was a fool tool.
 
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Unless you can dial the bore in so it is concentric in your lathe (front and rear), you will not accomplish anything... other than possibly marking your barrel up removing it...
 
I call bull s h i t on that statement... the piloted 60 degree reamer cuts extremely smooth by hand or in the lathe... and concentric to the bore... I have been using one for over 45 years... it can not cut that bad...

You can call 'bull####' all you like. I know better than you apparently! I have experienced significant chatter marks with this tool on some barrel steel. I DID NOT say it doesnt cut concentric if the correct pilot is used!!! I am implying that the cutter will cut very concentric with the correct pilot and if that tool was used (as I am certain it was) the bore is not perpendicular to the muzzle face and as a result the cut appear eccentric. Fwiw...you would also get similar results as the OP's rifle exhibits if no pilot or an undersized pilot was used and it wouldnt matter if the bore was perpendicular to the muzzle or not...
 
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You state, "I have experienced significant chatter marks with this tool on some barrel steel."

I have not experienced that with any of the 60 degree tools I own. The picture of the muzzle posted by the op does not look like a 60 degree chamfer reamer was used, it looks more like a scraper was used sometime after it left the factory. We may never know.
 
You can call 'bull####' all you like. I know better than you apparently! I have experienced significant chatter marks with this tool on some barrel steel. I DID NOT say it doesnt cut concentric if the correct pilot is used!!! I am implying that the cutter will cut very concentric with the correct pilot and if that tool was used (as I am certain it was) the bore is not perpendicular to the muzzle face and as a result the cut appear eccentric. Fwiw...you would also get similar results as the OP's rifle exhibits if no pilot or an undersized pilot was used and it wouldnt matter if the bore was perpendicular to the muzzle or not...

It's possible guntech misread your post a little and came to that conclusion... I highly doubt any bullsh*t calling would happen if we were sitting around with coffee. Forums are a strange game -- that's why I write so much and so detailed (but often, people can't really get the gist on an iphone).

I'm not naming the company here, because I don't want this to show up in a search -- and I don't want to spread any bad reviews without this being totally resolved first. Mistakes happen at otherwise competent companies. I often see forums light up with #####ing and complaining about a faulty thing too early -- and they often get resolved just fine. Ultimately, the maker is doing infinitely more good than bad in the gun market -- and they deserve the benefit of the doubt. I did seriously hint at the maker in a previous post and it should be easy to figure out. Please don't say the name here yet. I have had a careful look at an un-fired late 60's Winchester lever gun -- and this thing is miles better; the Winchester looked more like a cheap replica of a Winchester.

I do know how to measure things -- and this bore is pretty much deadly square to the muzzle. To measure concentricity, I made an accurate brass pilot or plug that fits the bore to measure against with a Mitutoyo depth gage. That's how I came up with the .001" (at most) concentricity of the outside and the bore -- and judging the muzzle end square is easy with a square.

Guntech put the fears in me about removing the barrel myself -- plus I don't know if the threads are locked with adhesive. I'm going to pursue a warranty repair. I'll see how that goes. If that doesn't work, I will find out about thread locker -- and it'll be easy.

I appreciate all the input. It's a curious mystery.

My vote is a non-piloted cutter was used. Buy why?

I had a crazy thought: What if the crown is like this on purpose. If crowns don't do much other than move groups around (IF...)... Maybe it was shooting too damned high (or whatever) at the test firing. How would one ever repair it?
 
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I guess I missed the clue but seeing as you mentioned "for the price" I'm guessing you will have to deal with snapperheads out in Quebec for warranty, which will likely involve a few minutes with the reamer as suggested by gun tech , and a dab of cold blue..... Plus how ever long they take to do it.

There is always the brass screw head and lapping compound route as well, never tried it myself but not much to lose in your case and it could still be chamfered to 60 deg if your not happy.

Are you going to shoot it first?
 
North Sylvia is the distributor says the manu's website. I sent a warranty request.

I don't know if I should shoot it if I go the warranty route... I'll at least get word from them.

"For the price" is still $1075 all in.
 
You state, "I have experienced significant chatter marks with this tool on some barrel steel."

I have not experienced that with any of the 60 degree tools I own. The picture of the muzzle posted by the op does not look like a 60 degree chamfer reamer was used, it looks more like a scraper was used sometime after it left the factory. We may never know.

And I believe you .. and agree with you! IMO that crown was cut (or was attempted) by a 79 degree muzzle crowning cutter as is sold by Brownells ... quite likely without the pilot
 
North Sylvia is the distributor says the manu's website. I sent a warranty request.

I don't know if I should shoot it if I go the warranty route... I'll at least get word from them.

"For the price" is still $1075 all in.

I just noticed the hammer serrations..... :) At least you won't have to deal with Snapshot.

If everything else on the gun is good, I'd take it for a test drive... it's not like the gun has not been shot previously? I'd probably still clean up the crown unless it shoots into one hole @ 100 yards..... :)
 
... and it's a buck-a-shot and a pain in the *** trip to the range to find out.

The muzzle crown issue has already been analyzed to death. But this statement from your second or third post caught my eye.

Clearly you are still buying factory .44Mag. If you enjoy this caliber you really need to consider getting into reloading. I can reload a .44Mag with H110 or other proper magnum power level powders and the rounds cost me a hair under 30 cents a pop for primer, powder and bullet. The brass will only stand so many firings so let's call it about 32 cents a round to aid in buying brass as required.

If you do the math for how much you shoot vs how much a modest reloading setup costs you can calculate how long it would take to pay off the reloading gear purchase and begin shooting for a lot less. If you enjoy shooting .44Mag and other higher priced ammo it sure won't take long at all.
 
The muzzle crown issue has already been analyzed to death. But this statement from your second or third post caught my eye.

Clearly you are still buying factory .44Mag. If you enjoy this caliber you really need to consider getting into reloading. I can reload a .44Mag with H110 or other proper magnum power level powders and the rounds cost me a hair under 30 cents a pop for primer, powder and bullet. The brass will only stand so many firings so let's call it about 32 cents a round to aid in buying brass as required.

If you do the math for how much you shoot vs how much a modest reloading setup costs you can calculate how long it would take to pay off the reloading gear purchase and begin shooting for a lot less. If you enjoy shooting .44Mag and other higher priced ammo it sure won't take long at all.

Yes... thanks. I do realize. I have 700 Starline cases, a box of Berry's 240Gr bullets and a chrony in the mail.... I still need the press (kit), dies and powder. I like to buy through CGN Exchange if possible. I didn't want to shoot any factory ammo at all.

The extractor is taking a good bite out of the case rims too -- so I have to fix that... and the loading gate scratches the brass.... Minor.
 
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FWIW - I would shoot it before and after the muzzle re-do, as I would want to know if the thing was buggered in the first place. What happens if the thing shoots like a dog after the re-crown? Inquiring minds want to know....
 
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First impression, doesn't look factory to me. Stranger things are normal though.
It does look normal for that type of barrel and an incomplete crown repair.

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I use these 60° cutters but ALWAYS in the lathe. I cannot do it well enough by hand to suit my personal acceptance level.
I am absolutely certain Guntech does a great job of it but I cannot by hand.
 
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