What Else would I need?

NorthernPF

NorthernPF

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Ramore, Ontario
Hey Everyone,

I'll be getting into reloading shortly so I decided to start buying the little things as I go to avoid a huge bill when it comes time to get the press.:kickInTheNuts:

After some discussion on the board here, I decided that I will try my hand with the Dillon 550 as my first press. I'll be loading mainly .45ACP and 300WM.

So here is my list and things I have already got.

Dillon 550 Press
Dillon Caliber Conversion kits for .45ACP & 300WM
Digital Scale
4 Die Carbide Set for .45 ACP
Carbide Die Set for 300WM
Lee Zip Case Trimmer
Digital Caliper - BOUGHT
Primer Pocket Cleaner - BOUGHT
Chamfer/Deburing Tool - BOUGHT
Lee Case Trimmer Cutting Head - BOUGHT
Case Depth Guage for trimming (.45ACP) - BOUGHT
Case Depth Guage for Trimming (300WM) - BOUGHT
Reloading Manual - BOUGHT

From what I've been told I'll also need a special die for the powder throw when I reload for the 300WM as the dies only have 2 Dies but I can't remember the name of it.

I can't seem to find much information about what comes in the RL550 Kit so if anybody knows of anything else I would have to buy it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Eric
 
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You may want to re-think the carbide rifle dies. Just because of the price. A Dillon carbide die set for .308 runs $140.95US vs $62.95US for regular dies. They don't appear to come in .300 Win Mag. Contact Dillon and ask, but there are no .300 Win Mag carbide dies on their site.
 
Carbide dies for rifle are useless. You get more (like you need more!) life out of them, but still need lube.

Lee dies or RCBS will serve you just as well.

Carbide dies for PISTOL are a necessity. :)
 
Thanks Fella's!!

Would any of you know what the part that flares the case mouth and allows for the powder to drop through the throw in station 2 is called?
 
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Powder funnel. It comes with the conversion kits.

The pistol ones flare the mouth - the rifle ones do not. Remember not to bell the mouth too much - we're talking just enough to seat the bullet, otherwise it kills your brass.

Good luck!
 
No actually I haven't. Thanks. Is there a specific type of tumbler?

I saw those vibrations tumblers and heard that they were loud but how long does brass have to be in there to be cleaned well?
 
I picked up an rcbs thats what was in the store when I went in. It's lasted will it last dunno now that I said that the motor will probably junk out the next time I'm using it. I am going to purchase a second one, but the recommendation I am going off of is from the guy that taught me how to reload and he uses a thumler tumbler.
Depends on how dirty your brass is and what your definition of clean is. I've had stuff clean in an hour and a half then some stuff has taken 6 hours all depends really.
 
Is that your estimate for rifle only? If it also includes pistol that isn't enough to justify a progressive press. I'm guessing you didn't include your pistol reloads in the figure.
 
if you're only doing 150 rounds a year ( assuming you mean .300 winmag) I would go with rommelrommel and recommend a single stage press - say a used rockchucker or the like. The reason is that in a caliber like .300 winmag you're doing precision reloading especially when working up a load and the powder measure in a progressive will have some variation- even if it's only.1 or .2 of a grain, but can be more depending on the powder- stick powders don't meter as well as ball. Plus adjusting a powder measure from the 4 -6 grain range to the 60-70 grain range can be a PITA. Where you're into action shooting where you burn 000s of rounds it might make sense to use a progressive - which is why Dillon makes & sells .223/5.56 and .308 carbide dies - but the need for sub-moa precision is not there so charge varaition is not an issue.

Just my .o2
 
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