What finish for a Swede Mauser

TightGroup

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I have a nice 1902 Swede Mauser.

I have started to refinish the stock, and getting closer I am wondering what would be a good finishing for such a stock (seems to be walnut) while keeping it period correct?

Thanks

TG
 
I think some people would love to have a prestine looking rifle in original condition but there are few left and all carry a hefty price tag. There should be nothing wrong with someone "restoring" a rifle (although no longer original) to use and enjoy. Most people don't look at firearms as a long term investment but more like a tool for hunting, and general enjoyment. In that case they are using the rifle and in the end isn't that what the purpose of a rifle was in the first place?

I can't comment on what was the period type of wood finish, but an oil finish such as Tru Oil looks good and you can control the colour you wish to have with the water based stain they provide.

I wish I had more info for ya, but good luck.
 
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There are in fact very few people who could be classified as "bubba haters". Over on the Milsurp Forum the general sentiment is that: "it's your property, so go nuts on what you do with it", but those same folks are also quick to point out the "cost" of modifying it. A good number of people have heeded that advice and saved themselves a pile of money by selling an original piece, and buying another that was already modified.

As for what finish would be like original (i.e. "Period Correct") - it's pretty much moot now. Use whatever looks good to you, and if you tire of it, change it. IMO Boiled Linseed Oil would resemble the original.
 
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Well there was damage to the stock and the top piece was sliced in two.

I feel as though I have committed a horrible crime here.

She is all original, but the stock was in dire need of help, the wood had signs of a fungus rot, that chewed grey look. I spent some considerable time in repairing it, without IMHO danaging its value.

AS for the top piece that is sliced in two, I still have to figure how to correct this.

What I was looking for was type of finish was used in that particular period and see if I can duplicate it.

In my restoration all the wood is original, all parts are stamped and matched including the stock.

I just want to bring it back to its glory years.

Thanks

TG
 
Linseed oil is not enough. I use a mix of Tung oil, boiled linseed and a splash of turpentine. The tung oil will give a nice shine, Linseed will give the deep sheen and the Turp will allow both oils to penetrate into the wood.

45% Boiled Linseed
45% Tung Oil
10 Turp (or any slow drying solvent)

Wipe and saturate the stock, let stand for an hour or two, them wipe. First coat is the most important, it will determine how deep your finish goes. Repeat at least 6 X or more if the stock is looking good.

Do not allow the finish to dry in a saturated state. You will have gummed up mess.

Hope this helps

Pete
 
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BLO gives a flat finish. Use Boiled Linseed Oil, not pure linseed oil. The pure stuff doesn't dry well.
Tung oil a satin finish. Tung oil needs to be rubbed in with a clean, lint free cloth. One thing about tung oil is that once the first coat is on(takes several with a day of drying between coats) there's no staining or going back. Tung oil soaks into wood, all by itself, to about 1/4" and won't allow any stain into the wood. It gives a durable, nearly water proof finish. The more coats you put on and rub in, the shinier it gets. It isn't cheap though. About $15 or so a litre.
Don't use Tung Oil Finish. Pure tung oil only. The 'Finish' has polymers in it. Minwax sells both, so read the label.
 
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