What Generation of Glock should a guy stay clear of ?

None of the posts you've quoted indicate one should avoid any generation. The quotes are personal opinions not factual comments. I would agree that the early Gen2 40's would be the most likely candidate to avoid as issues have been well documented with these pistols. "some have experienced problems(gen4)" is not a proven problem with the gun, its most likely the shooter. "The gen2/2.5 SEEMS to be of better quality..." is an opinion, not fact. The inclusion of finger tabs and rails is a personal preference and has no bearing on functionality. If either are desired(or not) then they may play a role in which generation is suitable to the buyer.

TDC


Haha take it easy man. I'm not knocking the mighty Glock.

Is this an opinion or factual comment ? - "Early Gen 1's (or pre-Gen 1's) the trigger return spring broke"
or..... "a trigger spring is only $2.50" or "the only one that had problems was a gen3 G19"

Also when the question is asked "Which Gen Glock should I stay clear of?" and answers like "Gen 4 or RTF models." and "as far as what generations to avoid, I would say the Gen 4 right now" are posted, even though yes they are only opinions the person who asked the question might interpret that as suggesting to stay away from that Gen Glock

I wasn't suggesting to Y2k to shy away from all generations, nor was i realistically suggesting anyone else was. The posts and info on here are greatly appreciated by myself and others, but as you mentioned most are personal opinions and experiences, what works for one, maybe won't work for another, thus you have to take it all in with a grain of salt....... and if you don't, the only option that would be available to you in this thread would have been the G2 as out of the quotes it's the only Glock that saw no criticism in any roundabout way , providing the finger groove and light rail thing would not have been criticism from the respective buyer......... thats more the point being made here.....

Also for the record I am pro Glock....... Y2K will be more than happy with whatever he chooses.......
 
Glock

Gen 1
800px-Adam%27s_Guns_Glock17Gen1.jpg


Gen 2
40glock.JPG


Gen 2.5
G21C-.jpg


Gen 3
glock17.jpg


Gen 3.5
Marui_Glock17c_3rdGen_05.jpg


Gen 3.5 RTF
can't find picture... this was a rougher more aggresive checkering as compared to the rtf2

Gen 3.5 RTF2
3-left-Glock-G22-RTF2-40SW.jpg


Gen 4
GlockGen4-web-2.jpg
 
Is this an opinion or factual comment ? - "Early Gen 1's (or pre-Gen 1's) the trigger return spring broke"
or..... "a trigger spring is only $2.50" or "the only one that had problems was a gen3 G19".

all my comments are just outlining what some of the faults are, thru proper maintanence all of these problems can be avoided.... i highly recommend buying ANY glock. if the new Gen 4 9mm's are indeed coming itno canada with the O2 SPRING then I would not hesitate to buy one, frankly the gen 4's are the sweetest of the bunch.... and frankly if the new spring is not in them glock is VERY fast with sending replacment parts.

also on a used gun I would replace the trigger spring and the guide rod assembly with new factory glock parts just as a course of action.... they are under $10 in parts and it gives me a good reference point. I usually shoot between 10-15k rounds a year so go thru 2-3 sets a year.
 
PepsiCola which grip checkering do you find most comfortable? i'm thinking of a G22 but haven't spent alot of time with very many different Glocks....

I find the gen 1/2/3/3.5's "slippery when wet".... the rtf/rtf2 and the new Gen 4's go a LONG way in making the glock the perfect gun.

i use slip on houge grips or the "decal" rubbery grips on my gen 2 G19 and gen 3.5 G17..... a Gen 4 G34 is in my future as soon as they come out.

(decal grip on G19, houge sleeve on G17)

if your buying new... do yourself a favour and get a gen 4... but don't be to attached to .40, .40 ammo is just about as expensive as .45 (around $20 per box of 50)

I highly recommend a 9mm for both cheap ammo.... cheap ammo = more practice, more practice = more skill level.
 
Haha take it easy man. I'm not knocking the mighty Glock.

Is this an opinion or factual comment ? - "Early Gen 1's (or pre-Gen 1's) the trigger return spring broke"
or..... "a trigger spring is only $2.50" or "the only one that had problems was a gen3 G19"

Also when the question is asked "Which Gen Glock should I stay clear of?" and answers like "Gen 4 or RTF models." and "as far as what generations to avoid, I would say the Gen 4 right now" are posted, even though yes they are only opinions the person who asked the question might interpret that as suggesting to stay away from that Gen Glock

I wasn't suggesting to Y2k to shy away from all generations, nor was i realistically suggesting anyone else was. The posts and info on here are greatly appreciated by myself and others, but as you mentioned most are personal opinions and experiences, what works for one, maybe won't work for another, thus you have to take it all in with a grain of salt....... and if you don't, the only option that would be available to you in this thread would have been the G2 as out of the quotes it's the only Glock that saw no criticism in any roundabout way , providing the finger groove and light rail thing would not have been criticism from the respective buyer......... thats more the point being made here.....

Also for the record I am pro Glock....... Y2K will be more than happy with whatever he chooses.......

I'm not excited/aggitated or otherwise concerned, just thought I'd make that clear for everyone that a lot of the suggestions are based on personal experience rather than factual information.;)

TDC
 
I find the gen 1/2/3/3.5's "slippery when wet".... the rtf/rtf2 and the new Gen 4's go a LONG way in making the glock the perfect gun.

i use slip on houge grips or the "decal" rubbery grips on my gen 2 G19 and gen 3.5 G17..... a Gen 4 G34 is in my future as soon as they come out.

(decal grip on G19, houge sleeve on G17)

if your buying new... do yourself a favour and get a gen 4... but don't be to attached to .40, .40 ammo is just about as expensive as .45 (around $20 per box of 50)

I highly recommend a 9mm for both cheap ammo.... cheap ammo = more practice, more practice = more skill level.

Yeah point well taken on ammo cost. i have a few 9mm's already and reload my own ammo, so it would be a matter of setting up to reload .40 as well. But the reason i have 9mm's right now is because i am set up for it!! So maybe best to stick with it. My friend has a Gen 4 G17 he's considering selling, maybe i'll take it off his hands!:D
 
Yeah point well taken on ammo cost. i have a few 9mm's already and reload my own ammo, so it would be a matter of setting up to reload .40 as well. But the reason i have 9mm's right now is because i am set up for it!! So maybe best to stick with it. My friend has a Gen 4 G17 he's considering selling, maybe i'll take it off his hands!:D

seriously, if your setup for 9mm allready and are comfortable shooting it then stay with it, the .40 is the answer to a question that should have never been asked to begin with.... the 10mm or the 45 are the answer to more power.

frankly for plinking or even "animal" defense if you get charged by a deer at the range the 9mm loaded with proven JHP ammunition is as effective as the .40 and even the .45.

one thing with the glock brass is you "may" notice a slight bulge down near the base, so a lee factory taper crimp die is always recommended to make sure the loaded ammo is back to factory spec's..... (frankly the lee factory crimp die should be used for all ammo IMHO, even as a seperate step after the ammo is allready loaded....)
 
seriously, if your setup for 9mm allready and are comfortable shooting it then stay with it, the .40 is the answer to a question that should have never been asked to begin with.... the 10mm or the 45 are the answer to more power.

frankly for plinking or even "animal" defense if you get charged by a deer at the range the 9mm loaded with proven JHP ammunition is as effective as the .40 and even the .45.

one thing with the glock brass is you "may" notice a slight bulge down near the base, so a lee factory taper crimp die is always recommended to make sure the loaded ammo is back to factory spec's..... (frankly the lee factory crimp die should be used for all ammo IMHO, even as a seperate step after the ammo is allready loaded....)


yeah i'm not overly concerned with "stopping power" or whatever. More just to shoot .40 as an interest. I think i may just stick with 9mm. And yes i have heard reloading for glock especially in 40 to be careful with the bulging etc.
 
seriously, if your setup for 9mm allready and are comfortable shooting it then stay with it, the .40 is the answer to a question that should have never been asked to begin with.... the 10mm or the 45 are the answer to more power.

frankly for plinking or even "animal" defense if you get charged by a deer at the range the 9mm loaded with proven JHP ammunition is as effective as the .40 and even the .45.

one thing with the glock brass is you "may" notice a slight bulge down near the base, so a lee factory taper crimp die is always recommended to make sure the loaded ammo is back to factory spec's..... (frankly the lee factory crimp die should be used for all ammo IMHO, even as a seperate step after the ammo is allready loaded....)

There are issues with the bold above. Your is the wrong word, and "more power" is a myth.

TDC
 
I've owned first, 2nd and 3rd gen glocks.. I seem to prefer the 2md or 3rd but there is nothing wrong with the 1G guns.. I just like the finger grooves better.
 
There are issues with the bold above. Your is the wrong word, and "more power" is a myth.

TDC

You must keep pretty busy doing spell check for everyone here on CGN....keep up the good editing work and maybe someday you will be offered a full time position. :rolleyes:

As far as your "myth" comment on more power is concerned, it would totally depend on the load and bullet weight, which in turn, would determine the muzzle velocity. :nest:
 
You must keep pretty busy doing spell check for everyone here on CGN....keep up the good editing work and maybe someday you will be offered a full time position. :rolleyes:

As far as your "myth" comment on more power is concerned, it would totally depend on the load and bullet weight, which in turn, would determine the muzzle velocity. :nest:

Sorry but such spelling and grammar errors are noticed without effort. I have been "trained" to use the proper word and grammar when conversing through written language.

The myth is real. Shot placement is the critical factor in determining the effectiveness of a projectile. Weight, brand, style, and calibre mean nothing if you can't hit the vitals. Here's a link to the awesome effectiveness of both the .40 and .45

.40
http://www.lawofficer.com/article/training/officer-down-peter-soulis-inci

.45
http://www.lawofficer.com/article/training/officer-down-warriors-sacrific

TDC
 
Obviously shot placement is the key but power is not a myth.

Kind of contradictory there. If shot placement is key, the who cares about "power"? A miss with a 16" deck gun is still a miss. I'm sure all the people who have ever been killed by .22lr are not really dead, and all the people shot with .45 who recovered are just faking it.:rolleyes:

Sorry for the side track folks. Any gen as long as its in good working order should be just fine. The desire for or against finger tabs and rails may alter your selection.

TDC
 
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