What have I got here and what is it worth?

thegrandpoohbah

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I am helping out my father-in-law's friend who is clearing out his dad's stuff. This appears to be a Husqvarna Vapenfabriks AB 30-06. From the serial number it looks like it was made in 1953 but I can't figure out which model this is. Given the age it is in amazing condition and doesn't look like it was shot very much. The bore looks good and there is no rust. I'd say bluing is 95% or better. Only a few minor nicks in the stock. The bolt is really smooth and locks up tight. The trigger is heavier than my target rifles but feels great, nice and crisp. I don't have much use for this caliber but am debating buying it myself. I am going to take it to the range at some point to see how well it shoots. Any suggestions for ammo? How much is something like this worth if I were to try and sell it for him on the EE? Thank you.

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Also check out the sticky at the top of the page...
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...796-Husqvarna-Sporting-Rifles-####-ALL-MODELS!!!
 
Frontier arms is selling Swedish used grade c 30.06 sporters for $250. And some Husquavanas for $300 with 9mm ammo.

Your gun is probably in much better shape than the ones listed for $250, I would say that you can ask reasonably for $350 on the market, of course, you can try $400 but that would be fishing

https://frontierfirearms.ca/used-swedish-rifle-in-30-06-randomly-selected/

if don't know if I am supposed to put in a link like this, if not, please delete it
 
That's an FN Mauser action, and if you take it out of the wood you'll find another serial number stamped on the flats on the bottom. You'll need to do something about that safety if you're going to scope it. It should shoot very well if you do get a scope on it.

Most of the rifles on tradex are kind of rough or have condition issues. That one is in very nice original condition. I would say $4-450.
 
It looks like the 1600 action, assembled in 1953 as you said. Controlled round feed.
Is the barrel length 20.5", 22" or 23.5" from bolt face to end of barrel?
Have a look at the Tradeex site for comparable prices.
https://www.tradeexcanada.com/produits/95

Most definitely not a 1600 series action - that is a commercial action (not former military - no thumb cut out) of the M98 Large Ring design - note the front ring is larger than the left side wall. I have one that is nearly identical, except chambered in 9.3x62, not 30-06. Mine is an FN (Fabrique Nationale) made action, from Belgium, which Husqvarna was using for various models for a number of years. It helps a bit as a "selling point" to remove the bolt and look into the rear of the breech area. There is a reinforcing ring on the inside of the 98 mauser action front ring that the barrel is tightened up against. On earlier versions, from the rear, it is shaped like a "C" - only one broach cut on the right side to allow the extractor to pass. On later ones, that broach cut was made on both the left and right sides, so looks like a sideways "H". Among some of us, the "C" broached 98 are considered about as good as it gets, while the "H" are considered somewhat "lessor", although both versions pass proof testing easily - the Husqvarna / Swedish proof marks plainly visible on your barrel to right side of the barrel serial number, up against the front receiver ring. As mentioned, TradeEx has had numerous similar for sale, to get a sense of current retail pricing - but pay attention to detail - no thumb cut out, based on a 98 size, not a small ring 96 style, the width of the fore-arm - some models were much slimmer and had a "schnable" tip to the forearm - yours does not.

From another recent thread, apparently Husqvarna installed the rifle's serial numbers on the barrel, until a USA law in 1968 required the serial number on the action for rifles imported to USA. If you dismantle the rifle, you will likely find what looks like a second serial number, with proof stamps, on the flat on the underside. From Baribal in another thread, that number on the flat on the underside of the receiver is NOT the serial number for the rifle - the one on the barrel is - and apparently no examples exist of the two numbers being the same, so the number on the flat is assumed to be like an assembly or inventory number as part of the manufacturing process.

When looking at "comparibles", understand that Sweden surplused train loads of M94 rifles in the 1950's - many of these were bought up by European gun firms and converted to "sporter rifles". I have one, by STIGA, which is chambered in 30-06. It would have been proofed for 30-06 in Denmark where the barrel was installed, and has those proof marks. "New", not converted milsurp stocks. On mine, the bolt was a standard "turned down" m94 configuration. I have read of other companies that did similar, but can not remember their names or brands - so these "sporters" were built on "Swedish" military receivers, but they are / were not Husqvarna sporting rifles, and, at least on my example, were built on mauser Small Ring actions, not the Large Ring that you show in your pictures.
 
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That's an FN Mauser action, and if you take it out of the wood you'll find another serial number stamped on the flats on the bottom. You'll need to do something about that safety if you're going to scope it. It should shoot very well if you do get a scope on it.

Most of the rifles on tradex are kind of rough or have condition issues. That one is in very nice original condition. I would say $4-450.

X2 ....... Looks like no tang crack as per the usual with those rifles. If one had it bedded and the trigger tuned, that would be a first rate rifle.

$500 for this would still be a fair deal considering the condition. The OP should think about buying it for a keeper.
 
X2 ....... Looks like no tang crack as per the usual with those rifles. If one had it bedded and the trigger tuned, that would be a first rate rifle.

$500 for this would still be a fair deal considering the condition. The OP should think about buying it for a keeper.

Tradex has dozens of these for $300-$400, $500 would be pushing it....
 
I do not know if there is an actual recommended number, or where that number would have come from? I have multiple mausers - I snug both front and back actions screws so that the action and the trigger guard are firmly in position, then tighten that front one - "very firmly" and the rear one "not quite as firmly". If you are engineering type, the actual threads on a mauser action screw are 1/4" x 22 threads per inch. Might be an "engineering" standard somewhere that gives a "design torque value". As I have discovered - when first disassembling - pay attention to what might fall out - old school guys would often insert paper, cardboard or metal shims under action, at recoil lug, under barrel to "tune" the thing to work "better". All a function, I think, of the wood shrinking a bit 60 or 70 years after being assembled.

Front of trigger guard has a short "tube shape" that engages onto the underside of the recoil lug - so usually is a metal to metal connection at the front that the front action screw is holding together. Almost all "better" mausers have a metal tube within the wood stock for the rear action screw to pass through - not really a "pillar" as we have come to think of them, but more to create a hard "stop" or spacer for when the rear of action and rear of trigger guard are correctly spaced. By design, that exact positioning usually creates a slight "squeeze" on the wood. With wood shrinkage, might need to build up top or bottom - hence the various shims that may have been added to "clamp" the wood.

As a check, the mid line of the barrel and mid line of receiver should be close to the top straight line of the stock. A sure sign of "goofy" bedding if that barrelled action not sitting where it should be within the stock.

An earlier comment mentioned that lack of a crack at the rear tang of your rifle - is very common feature of used mausers - almost always a function of combination of drying (shrinking) wood, loose action screws and/or the stock's recoil ledge getting punky or soft after years of being soaked in gun oils. When properly assembled / shimmed / or "bedded" there should be a hairline gap between the wood and the very rear end of your receiver's tang - at least, it should have been originally inlet to have that gap - say 3 or so thicknesses of computer printer paper - if that gap has closed, then the rear end of the receiver starts to act like a recoil lug and transfers recoil from the barrelled action to the wood stock at that rear end - it is shaped like a round nose wedge, so will push the sides of the rear to left and right, resulting in a crack at the rear end of the tang. Can be avoided with shim at face of the proper recoil ledge. If "glass bedding" without positioning to create that gap, the "glass bedding" may not prevent that crack - need that clearance!!!
 
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Thanks for the info everyone. If I take it out of the stock does anyone know how much I should torque the action screws when I put it back in?

With a medium handled correctly fitting screw driver, simply snug up the front screw, then the back screw, then make the front screw as tight as you can and then the rear screw as tight as you can... without screwing up the slots... that's all the torque required on any bolt action...
 
Nice shape. I have one from 1952 in 270, almost identical but yours is in much nicer condition.

SN in the 144,### range right?

Mine was not taken care of by the original owner, but it was also shot very little so the barrel bore is just fine and the bolt works. The rest is just cosmetic isn't it?

Price was right. I borrowed it off a friend, put a scope on it then he asked for it back. I returned it, then registration cam in and he didn't want to deal with that bs and gave it to me.
 
You're right, but the high condition warrants a higher price. How 'bout $450? :)
The $400 range HVA'98's are usually excellent condition. I picked a few up, 8mm and a 30'06 which had the later style stock similar to the 1600's. Sold the 30'06 (still have too many) but kept the 8mm. For $450 I'd be looking at a 1600 instead of the 98's.
8mm below.

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I think the value comes more with these, if they have a side safety or trigger safety, these stupid wing safeties make it a pain to mount a scope and aftermarket safeties which replace the bolt shroud are pricey. Aftermarket bolt safeties are in the 250-400 price range (shipping exchange etc) as well drilled and tapped for mounts is important as it is another cost for a smith to do properly.

Also a magazine release to drop and hinge the floorplate are a nice piece of work, they are not easily modded and took work by gunsmiths to get done cleanly.

It looks in good shape and many folks know the mausers much more intimately than I, but for me the value or desirability goes to a 1600 or 98 style action with an aftermarket safety, drop floorplate, crosspin in the stock, nicely shaped walnut (could care less about the beauty of the grain) and a caliber Id want (270win).

For me this is a nice piece to shoot (with open sights), but its more along the lines of 350-400 for value. Different safety, mag release, maybe flip up/down rear sight and it would be closer to 600 range.
 
It looks like the 1600 action, assembled in 1953 as you said. Controlled round feed.
Is the barrel length 20.5", 22" or 23.5" from bolt face to end of barrel?
Have a look at the Tradeex site for comparable prices.
https://www.tradeexcanada.com/produits/95

Why does Tradex obscure the prices in their ads ? Put one in my cart and it came up as 469. so I assume it's in stock.:confused:

Grizz
 
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