What holster?

Thanks for the replies, I was thinking about leather because , as was stated, it goes with the style of pistol. Do many of you use a thumb break or just a slip in( please excuse the lack of proper terminology) type. I have also considered a military type reproduction as well. So many choices and too few suppliers in my area to go and check out what they look like and how they feel.
 
Thanks for the replies, I was thinking about leather because , as was stated, it goes with the style of pistol. Do many of you use a thumb break or just a slip in( please excuse the lack of proper terminology) type. I have also considered a military type reproduction as well. So many choices and too few suppliers in my area to go and check out what they look like and how they feel.
OP,
Bear in mind that most ranges that allow holster carry of handguns mandate that it be a strong side straight draw type. Most places would prohibit shoulder holsters or cross draw holsters because the drawing action entails crossing your body and potentially " covering" shooters to the left of you ( assuming right handed shot) on the firing line. If you are quick drawing a loaded gun, you can see the potential danger of a ND. Check your range regulations for the final word.
As far as leather goes, Bianchi, , Galco, De Santis, Milt Sparkes all make excellent leather holsters for the 1911. Thumb snaps or friction retention is up to you.
 
I use Bladetech, I like the drop and offset options. You didn't mention if you wanted retention, but Bladetech has options. Last time I was in 911supply.ca (calgary) they had a large number of holsters in stock, some Blackhawk, DeSantis, Safariland and I think Uncle mike's. They might have 1911 trainer guns that you can use to try the fit and feel with too, but don't quote me on that.
 
I have a couple of holsters because they came with the guns, I would have to jump through too many hoops to ever use them so I just put them on and walk around the house with the curtains drawn.
 
Kydex is easier on the finish than leather, and since it doesn't cost much more to buy a good holster than it does to buy a piece of crap - I'd strongly suggest something like BladeTech - that way you'll know it will fit and work, and will do so for years. Solely Canadian's stuff is as good as it gets, for about the same money as a BladeTech, and represent a fantastic value. Cheap holsters will mark up your gun and break.
 
It really doesn't matter where the club is if the club's rules don't allow you to use a holster. Most clubs require black badge and do not allow firearm forward of the shooting line. Ask first.
Does your pistol have larger sights? Only matters if you only want a pouch to lug the thing around in. Issue style holsters like you see on TV don't like anything but issue sights. Otherwise you need to decide how much money you want to spend. Holsters can get pricey. Making one is neither difficult nor expensive though.
 
Different ranges most certainly have different rules.

None of the club's in my area allow shoulder holsters or similar. Someone mentioned the "possibility" of sweeping folks to either side. It's a lot more than a possibility. It's pretty much a certainty. So shoulder holsters are good for those rare folks with wilderness ATC but not really applicable to the rest of us that shoot at ranges.

It's nice to get a holster that suits the style of gun. And certainly a 1911 is just begging for a leather or heavy cotton duck holster. But if you are looking for a parking spot for a lot of various guns that just need a place to rest between shooting or while walking around I can suggest an Uncle Mike's #18. I bought it for my big N frame revolver but I've found that it fits every other handgun I've got just fine other than the 7.5" barrel on the Super Blackhawk. And this includes my almost prohibited S&W 2206. It's been a great general purpose holster for very little money.

A note on leather. It was mentioned that it is hard on the gun's finish. It isn't the leather itself that is tough on the finish. It's the dust and grit that gets into the leather. Fairly frequently brushing out the inside with a thin wire steel or bronze brush will remove a lot of the dirt by brushing it out of the leather. Wiping it out with something soft doesn't do any good. The grit gets pushed into the surface of the leather. So the only way to get it out is to lightly "plow" it out with something like a stiff wire toothbrush.
 
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