What is the best 1000 yard rifle?

tigrr

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I want to know what the best 1000 yard rifle caliber is and who builds the rifles. Lets say for around $3000
I've heard alot about different calibers and am not interested in a barrel burner.
This is something strickly for bench shooting, not hunting.
The scope that will be going on it will be a Leupold MK4 6.5-20X50 mill dot.
Lets hear your opinion.
 
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300 WSM, 284, 7 WSM, 7-300 WSM (300 WSM Necked to 7mm), 260, 6.5-08, 6.5-284, 6.5x55, 308 even a .223 is good out to 1000yds as long as you can read conditions.

I and 2 other local F-Class shooters are going the 260/6.5-08 route for the long range cartridge to go with our 6BR's. Accurate cartridges with good barrel life.
 
Factory rifle

You asked WHO builds it? by this i'm assumng YOU won't be so i'd have to say the factory F class Savage; caliber choices being 6.5x284 or 6BR.
Choosing the one you can put the most rounds through i'd have to choose the 6 BR (what i shoot). 2000-2500 rds of great accuracy vs. 1000.

The rifle plus the scope could probably be had for your $3000 budget.

M.
 
If you want the best 1,000 yd rifle it will be a barrel burner. Launching the best B.C. at a decent velocity comes at a price. CyaN1de listed the most popular rounds.

You can always shoot a .308 or .223 and get lots of barrel life, but lack in wind cutting. So you need lots of practice with wind reading to compensate.
 
I have just bought the Savage 12 F/TR in the .308 this rifle is amazing, once I found the right load it pokes a single hole all day long @ 100M. It is scary what this does right out of the box, $1085.00 best money I have ever spent. I haven't had it out to 1000m only because there is no 1000m ranges around here, I've had it out 700m and it's no challange.
 
Hello, not sure if there is just one best rife for shooting 1000 yard benchrest, if the conditions are really good a 6 BR will do a great job but if its windy you might want something with a heavier bullet. You might want to think about getting both a custom 6 BR and something bigger for them windy days, you'll probably end up spending a bit more but if you plan on shooting mostly 1000 Yards or so and if you want good groups and scores, thats what it takes.
If you really only want one gun, check out the 6BR Dasher or a 6.5/284 .
Just my humble opinion !
Ron
 
Well I am hoping to get a Savage Model 12F/TR in 308 and you think it would look good with a Leupold Mark 4 6.5 - 25 X 50 Mil Dot long range. I have put in the time up to 500 yds just with a 270 Browning Bar, now its time to reach out.
Now all I have to do is find someone with it in stock.
Thanks for the input guys!
 
What sort of results do you expect/want?

1000 yard shooting as about far more than just the gun - by a long shot. You must be a competent reloader and have good wind and mirage reading skills. Having said that, you will have a hard time learning to read conditions at 1000 if your gun is incapable of grouping at 1K.

I would encourage walking before running (get good at 100, then 300 then up to 600). I think you will answer many of your own questions along the way, however to answer your question, there are only two clear answers:

1) Savage F-Class in 6.5X284 ($1500-2000 depending on where you find them)

2) Have a custom target rig built. You can have a world class rig built for well under 3 grand. Lots of caliber choices, but you need to decide what you can tolerate before you make the choice.
 
Well I am hoping to get a Savage Model 12F/TR in 308 and you think it would look good with a Leupold Mark 4 6.5 - 25 X 50 Mil Dot long range. I have put in the time up to 500 yds just with a 270 Browning Bar, now its time to reach out.
Now all I have to do is find someone with it in stock.
Thanks for the input guys!

I have a 12FTR in 308 in stock, so be careful what you wish for, it could be yours. www.albertatacticalrifle.com
Personally for not much more $$ I would go Nightforce scope over the MK4.
For a new to long range shooting type to have turrets that match the reticle is a huge advantage. Most find the glass better in the NF scopes and to have a little more magnification never hurts either.
A 5.5x22 would be my choice.
If you are stuck on the MK4 I have 1 here NIB that I would love to get out of my inventory.
 
Are you planning on competing or just having fun shooting LR?

If you are competing in 1000yd BR, then a top quality barrel installed on a custom action is in order. Plus appropriate trigger and stock, reloading gear, etc, etc. Lots of info on this board and many other competition boards.

If you are just starting out and want to have some fun, pretty hard to beat a 223 Savage. A 12BVSS is about as nice a starting rig as you will find and they were priced around $750. With bedding and load work up, 1/2 min is possible at 200yds and MOA or better out to 1000yds.

There are various single shot versions, some even with a 7 twist for the 80gr and 90gr bullets (my favorites are the 80gr Berger and Amax). Cost around$1000 to 1100 and give you a few more bells and whistles.

All that extra money can go to reloading equipment and components so you can afford to shoot thousands of rds in 2009.

Next up in wind bucking ability will be a semi custom in 6BR. A rebarreled Savage or Stevens with a quality barrel will drop you into the 1/4 min range all the way out to 1000yds (not so easy actually shooting that well). Easy on the shoulder and pretty inexpensive to shoot. Best barrel life of the main stream competition chamberings.

My personal favorite is the 6.5 mystic or 260AI variant. I prefer the 40deg shoulder for low case growth and long brass life. The extra case volume also allows for decent velocities in barrel lengths up to 30".

This and the 6.5 Swede offer the best velocity potential WITH the longest barrel life. LR ballistics is the best given the recoil you have to put up with. Smaller and larger cases trade barrel life for velocity potential.

The new hot thing is a super sized 284 Win pushing 180gr Bergers to 2900+ fps. Barrel life is decent (same as above) but recoil is significantly higher. No biggie if this is just a toy and you can add weight and/or a muzzle brake.

At 1000yds, the ability for the Bergers to slice through wind is spooky.

I built a 7 Mystic which is my version of the 280AI to do just this very thing. Awesome LR performance equal to even the 338 LM.

Since you will not be hunting, I would suggest you go no larger in cal. The 30's and 338's are lots of fun and deliver heaps of energy way out there. Ballistically, there isn't much more to offer without really eating through barrels.

I suggest you take the previous advice of starting small and just get out there shooting. No one learns with bruised shoulders or dizzy spells.

The rifle I am presently spending most time with is my Stevens 223 launching 75gr Amax out to 1075yds. Using the factory barrel but restocked/new trigger. Even in pretty gusty conditions, the bullet has no issue making the trip very accurately.

Cost for a day of shooting (50rds) is what some pay for one group shot with a 338 Lapua.

Until you want to compete, spending huge bucks on a rifle will pay little dividends except to your ego. Your ability to judge the wind is many times more important then another 1/4min that $$$custom will provide.

Spend your money on a decent factory rig and buy LOTS of reloading components. You will never learn if you never shoot.

And if you shoot, expect to wear out barrels. Using a Savage/Stevens will allow you to swap barrels for the least amount of money. And allow you to try the widest variety of chamberings.

One action, a few parts and barrels and you can shoot from a 221 Fireball to a 338-416 Rigby improved..

Jerry
 
If you really want to shoot 1000 yards, I would suggest you go straight to it. Get good equipment (you've already figured that out), and go for it. Instead of taking it in small steps (100y-600y-1000y), put on a thick skin, and do as much 1000y shooting as you can, as soon as you can, as often as you can. Having your head handed to you is _good_, if your ego can take it - how else are you going to learn what the wind does, and start to be able to do something about it?

I would suggest a .308 as your best first rifle, for the reason that it is not only capable of shooting well at 1000 yards, it is such a well-known quantity that it is one of the easiest to get shooting well at 1000y. Shooting any decent rifle well at 600m is a piece of cake, but to be honest there is a certain amount of rifle and ammo fussiness involved in getting a rifle to shoot well at 1000 yards. I would suggest that until you want to get into ammunition and rifle tuning for it's own sake, that you choose whatever is least fussy!

A .223 is also great, the only reason I would rate it second to a .308 is that it is somewhat more difficult to get first-rate performance from a .223 than a .308 at 1000y. Yes, it can be done, and essentially equal a .308 in performance, as well as being cheaper to shoot and even more fun too - but, see my above point about choosing the least-fussy option.

All the other higher performance cartridges are great too, though of course they have their tradeoffs (I am of the opinion that in an ideal world, we'd all shoot 6BR/105 instead of .308/155, in both TR and F Class - but that's not backward-compatible, and therefore not a practical suggestion). Generally they tend to be fussier than a .308 (though once you put in the effort, the performance of a first-rate F-class rifle at 1000 yards is a thing of wonder to behold).
 
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I bought a Savage 12 F/TR in 308 and it will wear a Night Force 5.5-22 X 56 NP-R1 reticle. Pick it up Tuesday Nov 25. Now I need to find Brass and Match grade bullets for it. I spend 50-60 hours just designing a hunting load for my 270, wonder what it will take for this one.:dancingbanana: maybe not quite that happy but close!
 
I bought a Savage 12 F/TR in 308 and it will wear a Night Force 5.5-22 X 56 NP-R1 reticle. Pick it up Tuesday Nov 25. Now I need to find Brass and Match grade bullets for it. I spend 50-60 hours just designing a hunting load for my 270, wonder what it will take for this one.:dancingbanana: maybe not quite that happy but close!

A lot less than your .270.

Lapua brass, BR2 primers over 45 grains of Varget with 155 SMK and work the ladder up .1 of a grain for three rounds each until 46 grains or so.

I seat at the lands but some folks prefer to jump the bullet .020 or so to the lands, depends on the gun and the bullet.

.002 to .004 for neck tension.

Ian gave you a load for Bergers already.

Enjoy.
 
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I bought a Savage 12 F/TR in 308 and it will wear a Night Force 5.5-22 X 56 NP-R1 reticle. Pick it up Tuesday Nov 25. Now I need to find Brass and Match grade bullets for it. I spend 50-60 hours just designing a hunting load for my 270, wonder what it will take for this one.:dancingbanana: maybe not quite that happy but close!

Save yourself some time, load 46 gr of Varget into a Lapua case with a 155 Berger, SMK, Nosler, .005 off the lands and have at it:D Ask 100 long range shooters (Palma shooter) what their load is and about 80% will give you that load.
 
long range

The savage 10FCP with the A5 macmillan is a nice rifle. I just finished a bedding job on mine and with 168 fed match it shoots sub moa at 100yrds all day. I have shot it to 880yards hitting a 9" steel, and a 32" gong. Great rifle very accurate, as long as i do my job.
 
Bob Raymond and maynard have cut right to the chase - what they've told you is at least 90% of the way to perfection. That's what's so great about a .308, your work has already been done for you, now you're ready to flop down and shoot some 1000 yard bullseyes.
 
Here she is

I listened. Savage 12F/TR Night Force 5.5-22X56 and all the fixens. except brass!
The whole deal.
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The recipe makers
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30 inches of stainless steel
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Thank you fellow Gunnutz!
 
tigr, thanks for the nice pictures, you look well set-up!

I see that you have some Berger 155 BT bullets, they are an excellent choice, the 2007 Palma Match was won by the GB team firing this bullet. It is a very forgiving and un-fussy bullet (the Berger 155 VLD, while a very fine bullet, is quite fussy!).

If you are interested in taking more pictures, I am curious what the crown (muzzle) of your barrel looks like. Also, you should take a photo of it once you have fired it, and there is enough powder residue on the muzzle to see a pattern - the symmetry of the "snowflake" pattern can be used to verify that your crown is good.

I am also interested in the cheek piece, is it adjustable? I can't really see the left hand side of it in the first photo (shadow), and I don't see any obvious indication of adjustments on its right hand side.

What does the underside and front portion of the fore-end look like? (just wondering what the rail and/or sling stud looks like, and how well it would fit a gloved shooting hand). FWIW, the way you have the bipod mounted is "backwards" compared to the way most people mount it. It's not wrong the way you have it, but the other way round is more popular.

Get thee some Winchester or Lapua brass, and proceed....!
 
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more pics

Burris Adjustable Ring inserts lifts and lowers up to 10moa, so +10 on the back and -10 on the front for 1000yd shooting.
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That way you can get away with a flat tactical rail
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Grove for lazers, range finders, lights, bipods on backwards!! already cut foam out of case, so it stays that way!
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Well cleaned muzzel crown is recessed 3/32 of an inch
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2 Stock extensions and 2 cheek pads
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I have to put it away now till I get my dies.
Best 3 shot group with Factory Win 150s was 5/8" @ 100yds of the first 20 down the pipe. My way shoot 1 clean for the first 5, then shoot 3 clean, for the next 15. Thats all that went down it so far.
 
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