What is the most accurate hunting ammo from your SKS?
- Thread starter Joel
- Start date
I have not seen any signs of over pressure. That is not to say there is no overpressure. The casing do eject quite a ways, though I have reloaded the same casings multiple times, and they are still good to go.
Again, I am not suggesting you try it, but if you do, work up to it, because it is not a book load. From the Hornady handbook, maximum for that load is 26.6 grains
I've been playing around with an SKS lately, with a big optic on it (Razor g2 4.5-27, lol) it consistently shoots 3-4moa 5 shot groups at 50yds with some ####ty chicom surplus ammo. I even managed to hit my 2/3 IPSC (12x18") target at 625 yds with 1/5 rounds . With an Eotech and a 6x magnifier, it'll reliably hit 12" targets out to 400ish.
It's currently sitting in an appallingly ####ty ATI plastic stock but I'll drop it in a Hush Holsters stock when it shows up. I got some dies and .310 Hornady bullets from Gatehouse so I guess I need to get some brass and and see how it'll shoot reloads.
It's currently sitting in an appallingly ####ty ATI plastic stock but I'll drop it in a Hush Holsters stock when it shows up. I got some dies and .310 Hornady bullets from Gatehouse so I guess I need to get some brass and and see how it'll shoot reloads.
Thanks for the info. I am starting to reload 7.62x39 for my CZ600 Alpha. I also use RL7 and 123gr SST’s and have the Hornady manual. I knew that your load was over the max. I got 0.85” with 25gr of RL7… no pressure signs… now to keep working up.
Within 50 meters it would be acceptable accuracy. I like the challenge of making non accurate things more accurate. I do have one Sks that will shoot 2.25 inch at 75 m. After that my eyes lose the cripness. You should bed the stock with JB weld group sizes will diminish.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
I would feel comfortable with 100-150m shots with it, I can consistently hit an 8” plate at 200m. I’m not sure permanently bedding it will get any more out of it, with it shimmed in the stock tight I can’t easily remove it without removing the front shim. Smoothing out the trigger would be a better idea I think, mounting a low power optic would improve things as well.
I hear you on making non accurate things more accurate, always fun to see gains in that dept from something that isn’t inherently accurate.
I would not hesitate to take a shot out to 150 yards on a deer, broadside. I have the accuracy. I've chronographed the bullet at 2500 fps, and at 150 yards it still has 2012 fps with 1105 foot pounds of energy.
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Yes, the next step in the process needs to be trigger tuning. I would have done it a while ago except I can't find anyone to do the work. I have a brand new sear ready to go, bit I will not attempt it myself.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
I’ll get around to it at some point lol, too many other to-do projects I’d like to work on first, couple shotguns and a No.4 .45acp conversion.
Quigley & Butcherbill - I've done a couple sears just using a fine file and 'loupe', but the easiest improvement is an MCarbo spring. I now have a Tapco chassis so it's a 'positive lock' on the mags and that let me use the 'lightest' spring M has. If you use the OEM mag, you want the Medium spring OR get used to picking up cartridges when the mag pops open . . . almost every shot.
Taking a few mm off the sear face is pretty easy if you have a fine file Or stone - there are many YT-vids on this. Yes, I have relatives in KY
Taking a few mm off the sear face is pretty easy if you have a fine file Or stone - there are many YT-vids on this. Yes, I have relatives in KY
Metal shim stock between the rear recoil lug and the stock and between the cross bolt and the front lug, the front shim has a long enough tab that I can grab it with needle nose pliers when I’m taking the barreled action out of the stock. You can’t get to the rear one till the action hinges out of the stock and it falls out, the trigger group pushes it flush with the stock inlet for the trigger group.
If you shim it tight you need to be able to remove the front shim to give enough space to get it out of the stock. Groups went from 6-7” down to 3-3.25” consistently with irons and any ammo I used, the odd 4-4.5”. Doing a trigger job would improve groups I would bet.
Can you post some pictures of your shimming if you don't mind?
I bought thousands of rounds of Barnaul last year from a guy close by who just wanted to get rid of all his gun stuff. Both FMJ and SP. Not saying how much I paid.
It was pure luck anyways.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Yeah I’ve watched a couple YouTube videos on it over the years, it looks pretty straightforward. I just never feel like doing it over the winter when I have the free time, I’ll get around to it at some point.Quigley & Butcherbill - I've done a couple sears just using a fine file and 'loupe', but the easiest improvement is an MCarbo spring. I now have a Tapco chassis so it's a 'positive lock' on the mags and that let me use the 'lightest' spring M has. If you use the OEM mag, you want the Medium spring OR get used to picking up cartridges when the mag pops open . . . almost every shot.
Taking a few mm off the sear face is pretty easy if you have a fine file Or stone - there are many YT-vids on this. Yes, I have relatives in KY
Next time I have it out I’ll try and take some pics, it’s just a strip of metal shim between the back recoil lug and stock and a second shim between the front lug and the cross bolt. Real simple stuff, you just have to make sure there’s enough length on the front shim to grab with needle nose pliers to pull it out. The rear shim gets pushed in flush with the stock inlet when the trigger group is put back in and there no way to remove it when the front shim is installed.
The action pivots up and out from the back end, when you have it shimmed in tight with no front to back slop it can’t pivot out when both shims are installed. If that makes sense lol.
