What is wrong with my savage

Is it possible that you're wearing thick gloves that push the trigger part of the accu trigger before the sear release part? I've done that on mine while wearing heavy gloves. Just try it at home, #### it and pull on the trigger ONLY not on the bladed part in the center of the trigger. Is this what its doing while hunting?

After the smith told me about that after my first visit I made sure I didn't do that today and it isn't doing the same thing. When you push the trigger not the blade it lockes the blade stiff untill you #### again. When it goes click on me the trigger and blade are loose like a round has been fired.

Thanks for your post
 
I'm going to blame your accutrigger. As you said in your first post, the primer on the misfires are un-marked. If it were cold grease, firing-pin protrusion, lack of clearance at the cocking button (technical term I just made up) the misfires would have some mark, even if too shallow.
On the savage you have stamped metal cocking indicator on the righthand side of the action. When you dry-fire it, the cocking indicator will drop all the way down, but if you just pull on the edge of the accutrigger without deploying the inner "safety" part it will only drop halfway down. Halfway down doesn't make it to the primer, which is actually what it's supposed to do when the trigger isn't used properly, or the gun is dropped.
I'll bet that on your misfires, that the cocking indicator only drops halfway, gun goes "click" and shooter goes"***#####!!!".


The cocking indicator drops all the way. and the clicks it makes are different between the two. I have hated the accutrigger blade anyways since day one does anybody make a good trigger to replace it?
Thanks for your post.
 
Chances are the accutrigger is catching the unwanted sear release. Remove the stock and play with it until it faults. Look at the trigger and determine if the accu-release lever is catching an unwanted sear release. Make sure the bolt handle is fully lowered, the 2nd base screw from the front can be too long. I wouldn't think the rifle would click if grease was the problem but cannot say for sure. For a hunting rifle, I prefer light oil or a FILM of graphite depending on the temp.

Unfourtunetly I would have no idea how to do that are what to look for. I can clean/ load ammo/mount a scope/and shoot all other duties are taken to a smith.
He suposably checked the sear when it was last in. Might just take it back and mention all the things that have been brought up.

Thanks for your post
 
Take the bolt and let it soak in a plastic tub of varsol. get a small tooth brush and scrub it as best you can. Swirl the bolt around to swish loose any junk inside.
Use a dry teflon spray.
 
Your trigger is set to light. Read the instuctions and set it a little heavier. When mine was too light any side pressure on it and click but no boom. I really like the accu trigger, once its set up right.
 
I'm going to blame your accutrigger. As you said in your first post, the primer on the misfires are un-marked. If it were cold grease, firing-pin protrusion, lack of clearance at the cocking button (technical term I just made up) the misfires would have some mark, even if too shallow.
On the savage you have stamped metal cocking indicator on the righthand side of the action. When you dry-fire it, the cocking indicator will drop all the way down, but if you just pull on the edge of the accutrigger without deploying the inner "safety" part it will only drop halfway down. Halfway down doesn't make it to the primer, which is actually what it's supposed to do when the trigger isn't used properly, or the gun is dropped.
I'll bet that on your misfires, that the cocking indicator only drops halfway, gun goes "click" and shooter goes"***#####!!!".

I'm going to blame the accutrigger too...which is why I think it wasn't repeatable to the gunsmith. try this experiment...#### the rifle when unloaded, and push on the trigger WITHOUT engaging the accutrigger sear release. It's will click, but it will not actually move the firing pin forward, this noise is the sound of the rifle being decocked (if that's a word). Now dry fire it with properly engaging the accutrigger release..it will be louder, and you will feel (if paying attention closely) the firing pin releasing as if to strike a primer. Now go to the range with loaded ammo and while pointing the rifle safely, repeat the experiment with live ammo...don't consciencely think about firing it, but watch very carefully, you either have a ####ed accutrigger or you're pushing too much on the side of the trigger and not enough on the sear engagement lever thing. Least that's what I think, and why it's not repeatable for anyone on a consistent basis besides you...I thinks perhaps the operator is the problem :)
 
Remove the stock, its only two 5/32 Allen screws. Take some lipstick and place it on the bottom of the trigger at the rear where the spring is adjusted. See figure 1, its the area above the tool. Often this will contact the stock. Other than that, make sure teh bolt handle is fully down before you fire, if it isn't check for handle contact and base screw contact. If it will not fault at room temp, place it in the freezer. http://www.savage-rifles.com/category/1412-savage_arms_accutrigger.aspx
 
Like you had said it worked flawlessly several times for the gunsmith and your father?
When it is cold, I generally hunt in -34 deg C . Just like was previously mentioned.. VERY LITTLE LUBE is required.. the big thing is that you said that you reload SLOWLY. Guns are designed to be re-cocked or bolted aggresively. This will break away and keep clear any condensation. For a rifle to work flawlessly for one person and misfire for another seems like something the shooter is doing. :)
 
I'm going to blame the accutrigger too...which is why I think it wasn't repeatable to the gunsmith. try this experiment...#### the rifle when unloaded, and push on the trigger WITHOUT engaging the accutrigger sear release. It's will click, but it will not actually move the firing pin forward, this noise is the sound of the rifle being decocked (if that's a word). Now dry fire it with properly engaging the accutrigger release..it will be louder, and you will feel (if paying attention closely) the firing pin releasing as if to strike a primer. Now go to the range with loaded ammo and while pointing the rifle safely, repeat the experiment with live ammo...don't consciencely think about firing it, but watch very carefully, you either have a f**ked accutrigger or you're pushing too much on the side of the trigger and not enough on the sear engagement lever thing. Least that's what I think, and why it's not repeatable for anyone on a consistent basis besides you...I thinks perhaps the operator is the problem :)

I did this after the first time it's a different click I have posted a couple of replys explaining how I ruled that out. It's not the problem.
 
Remove the stock, its only two 5/32 Allen screws. Take some lipstick and place it on the bottom of the trigger at the rear where the spring is adjusted. See figure 1, its the area above the tool. Often this will contact the stock. Other than that, make sure teh bolt handle is fully down before you fire, if it isn't check for handle contact and base screw contact. If it will not fault at room temp, place it in the freezer. http://www.savage-rifles.com/category/1412-savage_arms_accutrigger.aspx


Thanks for the post the stock took all the lip stick off. Does this mean I have to remove some stock material. Iam not too worried as a HS precision stock is suppose to be here in april for me. The handle down integues me now as I just assumed the rifle wouldn't go off at all if it was up. I just put the handle only half way down and pulled the trigger the click was similar to what happened in the field but I was in the house so have no way of knowing if it released the firing pin I hope it wouldn't. It's possible that the bolt was bumped up a tiny bit I will defenetly go try this.

Thanks.
 
Like you had said it worked flawlessly several times for the gunsmith and your father?
When it is cold, I generally hunt in -34 deg C . Just like was previously mentioned.. VERY LITTLE LUBE is required.. the big thing is that you said that you reload SLOWLY. Guns are designed to be re-cocked or bolted aggresively. This will break away and keep clear any condensation. For a rifle to work flawlessly for one person and misfire for another seems like something the shooter is doing. :)

It worked for the gunsmith inside his building my father never fired the rifle. The first round is chambered hard this is the first CLICK the slow reloads are when the coyote is right there and Iam trying not to spook it. I have guns from the 80's and early 90's that have the factory grease that work all winter long not sure what I would be doing wrong.
 
Could it possibly be a headspace problem?

Headspace is perfect thanks for your post.

I would have it checked one more time , Had the exact same problem with a 16fss in 300WSM . Click ,fire 6 times , click,click ,fire 5 etc........

prime fifty rnds with just a primer and test how many will go bang ? I had 41 out of 50 go bang. Fired many rounds with out a hitch befor and the problem just showed up one day .

Sent it to a smith (savage warenty ) and Bingo was the headspace
 
I would have it checked one more time , Had the exact same problem with a 16fss in 300WSM . Click ,fire 6 times , click,click ,fire 5 etc........

prime fifty rnds with just a primer and test how many will go bang ? I had 41 out of 50 go bang. Fired many rounds with out a hitch befor and the problem just showed up one day .

Sent it to a smith (savage warenty ) and Bingo was the headspace


Thanks for your post sounds like what i have gone through. I will have it double checked.
 
I say send it into a Savage warranty center/gunsmith and see what he/she has to say...if you are so convinced it's not the accutrigger, it's not user error, not firing pin/bolt issue, not a headspace issue, and your first choice in smiths wasn't able to duplicate the problem, let alone fix it, you may need someone with specialized Savage/accutrigger skills, knowledge, or tricks to figure out what's wrong with it because clearly the issues that cause this type of problem 99.9% of the time are not what is causing it, as you have checked them all fully.
 
Having a stock contact a trigger is not a good thing. Looking directly down into the stock inletting, just under that little "C" shaped area you have lipstick on, is the rear trigger guard screw coming up at you, that is why the factory cut is not excessively deep. If you think that is hitting, remove 1/16" of it. It would be like the stock is pulling the trigger, but likely not THIS problem because there should be no click. This is a serious condition, check it well.

If a person did not completely lower the bolt handle, it will absorb firing pin energy because the cocking piece pin on the firing pin hits the cocking ramp on the bolt body and rotates the bolt downwards. Normally the round fires and its hard to imagine it happening several times in a row.
If you could not lower the handle, firing pin travel will stop short, and a click is heard. This could be the front scope base screw being too long. If the stock is on, take it off or use a regular butter knife and flashlight, the shiny knife will reflect the image of the screw bottom. Obviously it should not extend into the action.
 
Thanks to all the posts I will do everything posted here and go out again. If it happens then I will send it in for waranty. Iam thinking it's a trigger issue as when the gun was new it was 3.3 lbs trigger pull. That was an average of 5 pulls. I just checked it and it was under 2.5lbs. No one has adjusted the trigger so not sure how it happened.
 
Happned to me on my FTR during provincial match, trigger adjusted itself down and damned near disqualified me. Savageshooter supply in the staes has an after market trigger that is supposed to be very reliable, if you really don`t like the accutrigger check them out.
 
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