What is your go to 303 british projectile

I use Sierra 174 gr HPBT Match Kings. I have a load down to almost 1/2 MOA with them in one of my Mosins. They're only .311 though so if you have one of the bigger bore .303's they may not work for you.
 
Hello new to the Lee Enfield addiction. I am wondering what all you No1 and No4 enthusiasts are using for projectiles in your reloads, and where you are finding them. Not wanting a soft point, looking for something in the 180gr range with a hard tip. New to this calibre, so any recipes and powder information you have very interested in all your opinions. Thanks.

The only non soft point bullets I have found is the 174gr FMJ. P&D often has them in stock. Not sure if they ship though. If you are wanting FMJ because they feed better, in my experience I have never had a feed issue with my own reloads or Winchester 303 factory ammo.

Personally I go for the Hornady 150gr soft point because they are the cheapest. Boat tail or flat bottom does not matter to me, I have not noticed any difference.

If you are lucky like me your enfield can accurately shoot .308 projectiles because during wartime they needed guns that work. I have seen claims that their barrels measured at .318 dia. .308-.318 is a huge range. If yours can do .308 then your options are limitless. I made a post about it here:
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1486020-308-in-an-Lee-Enfield-confirmed

I also highly recommend using IVI brass because it is just fantastic. I have cleaned mine once and reloaded them about 10 times with no signs of use.
You can buy some here http://www.shootist.ab.ca/
 
+1 on that exact bullet/powder/load.

It feeds smoothly, is pleasingly accurate, and easy on the shoulder in both my Mk III*s.

What C.O.L have you tried? I have been seating to max OAL and have had great results no matter the enfield. 2 grooves, 5 grooves, MK III's No.4's of all makes, they all love it so I haven't deviated too much in regards to seating depth.
 
>What C.O.L have you tried?

I can't actually say. I check case length after neck resizing, and then seat the bullet so that the rim of the case is in the middle of the ridged ring.

It worked so well that I've never had cause to try any other lengths.
 
For interest sake, here's my reloading setup for .303:

TNwBs6M.jpg


1. The scoop. Made from the base of a 300WM cartridge, soldered onto a screw, threaded into a stick from the backyard. I turned down the case until it held what I wanted it to when scooped from the bottle.
2. The case holder. 30 5/8" holes bored into a chunk of scrap 2x. I work in batches of 20.
3. The funnel. A 223 cartride soldered into the shoulder of some enormous magnum cartridge.
4. The base holder (shown inverted). It clamps onto the table of the drill press.
5. Firing pin tool. Scrap pipe fitting turned and filed down, with a nail soldered into it.
6. Primer remover/installer made from a stripped 6" philips bit. One end ground pointy, the other ground slightly cupped. It mounts in the drill press.
7. Seating tool. 3/8" Al rod with stepped holes drilled. It mounts in the drill press.
8. Neck sizing tool turned from a bolt and threaded onto another bolt. It mounts in the drill press.
9. The end result.

I'm cheap :)
 
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lucky i know were they were stored for maybe 40 or 50 years and i have had only 1 in maybe 150 of them i have fired so far not go off. every other round is like the day they were made. 200 of them were still in there bandolier pouches.

I wouldn't fire it unless you know the storage conditions for the last 65 years. There is potential that the powder has deteriorated and will detonate rather than ignite.

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...rue-story-of-the-possible-dangers-of-old-ammo
 
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