What kind of groups can I expect from a new rem 700 RUM?

overthetop said:
So I used the same powder bullets and primers but went from 81 up. Loaded 5 at 86, 5 at 91 and 5 at 95 (Max is 97.7) Got 2 in the same hole and the third nearly touching at 100 with the 86, and 3 pretty close (3/4 inch) with the 91 ans d a little spaced at 95 grains. Next weekend 3 each at 85, 86, 87, 88, 89 and take it from there. How do I post pics on here?
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5 Grain increments is allot:eek: Try .5 grain increments, stop at the first sign of overpressure. It may sound like allot of pissing around only going .5 gr at a time but you are looking for sub MOA right? Remember max velocity does not equal maximum accuracy.
 
why would you load a 300 ultra to such mild velocity. sure accuracy is good, but its kinda pointless. might as well have an accurate 308 or 30-06
 
Maynard I just tried the 5 grain inciments today to get an idea. Next week I'll go 1 grain incriments. And toddbartell I started at the bottom of the range and I'm just working my way up to the most accurate group for the 165's I am using. I plan on going to a bigger bullet and reworking it all for deer etc but now I am working on my yotee load. Anyone link me to a good balistics calculator?
 
Five grain increments is far too much as far as safety is concerned.Adding five grains can turn a mild load into an unsafe load.I use one grain increments myself with the large capacity magnums.
 
I kept it in the range in the book....
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Just because a load is published in a loading manual,there is no guarantee that it will be safe in your rifle.That is why loading manuals provide starting loads and advise that you work up from there.I have had rifles that showed pressure signs several grains below the book max load.
 
I started at the bottom....It's a brand new gun...no bulging primers or anything....
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You started at the bottom,but went up in five grain increments.Five grain increments are far too large.Pressure signs can appear by adding a single grain to a load that shows no pressure signs.Adding a second grain can cause very tight bolt lift.A third grain can lock up the bolt to where the bolt has to be beaten open.Grain number four could damage the gun.Grain number five could be dangerous to you.

It's a brand new gun.
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Exactly,you have no experience reloading for that rifle.Even more reason to work up slowly.


By the way,primers seldom bulge from excessive pressure.I suggest that you spend some time reading up on pressure signs,and work up loads in much smaller increments for your own safety.
 
Thanks for the tips. Want to take it one step further and point me to said writing?:D I thought the first sign to look for was a pit in your primer, a ring around where the firing pin hit...
 
Cratering around the firing pin mark can just as easily be caused by too much clearance between the firing pin and the bolt face.Most manuals have a section on pressure signs,most include pictures.I suggest you do some searching in your manuals and online,but I will add some information below.

Some common pressure signs are:
Extra resistance on bolt lift after firing.
Brass flow into the ejector hole
Shiny spots on the face of the case head
Very flat primers
Loose primer pockets after a few loadings.

If you see any of these signs,the chamber pressure is probably well above the design pressure for the cartridge.If you work up loads in cold weather,be extra careful the first time you use the load in warm weather,as pressure can rise significantly with higher temperatures.
Most of all,work up loads in small increments and never change any components( brass,bullets,primers,lot# of powder) without reducing the powder charge and working up again.
 
Cratering around the firing pin mark can just as easily be caused by too much clearance between the firing pin and the bolt face.Most manuals have a section on pressure signs,most include pictures.I suggest you do some searching in your manuals and online,but I will add some information below.

Some common pressure signs are:
Extra resistance on bolt lift after firing.
Brass flow into the ejector hole
Shiny spots on the face of the case head
Very flat primers
Loose primer pockets after a few loadings.

If you see any of these signs,the chamber pressure is probably well above the design pressure for the cartridge.If you work up loads in cold weather,be extra careful the first time you use the load in warm weather,as pressure can rise significantly with higher temperatures.
Most of all,work up powder charges in small increments and never change any components( brass,bullets,primers,lot# of powder) without reducing the powder charge and working up again.
 
one inch groups from a stock gun is pretty good. Some guys will vehemently denie this, but the bigger the boom, the harder it is to get little tiny groups.
 
Yes but also loading not hot enough in my rifle was not shooting great either. My whole idea was to load up until it became most accurate, and the only way to know is to go over that point a little.
 
Yes but also loading not hot enough in my rifle was not shooting great either. My whole idea was to load up until it became most accurate, and the only way to know is to go over that point a little.
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Unfortunately you are making the assumption that the accuracy will drop off before the pressure exceeds the acceptable level.Unfortunately,this is not always true.Some loads are most accurate when the powder charge is reduced,and some improve or remain stable accuracy wise, until well after the acceptable chamber pressure is reached.Increasing the powder charge until you see the accuracy drop off,can be a very dangerous practice.
Reading your posts,I strongly encourage you to seek out help from an experienced reloader before you damage your gun or hurt yourself.
 
Well if you read all of them you would see I am watching for pressure signs and staying within the ranges in the book. The max for the powder I am using is 97.7...I saw no signs at 95 but a decrease in accuracy.....And I have been reloding for 2 years now, have a buddy helping who has been at it for 10+ years, and I have you guys....;) that's why I started this thread! I am learning lots....
 
Well if you read all of them you would see I am watching for pressure signs
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I have read them all,and it is quite obvious that you don't really know what pressure signs to look for.

staying within the ranges in the book.
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I repeat,not all loads listed in a loading manual will be safe in all rifles.

I saw no signs at 95 but a decrease in accuracy..
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If you only fired one group with each load,you really don't know that for sure.

I am learning lots....
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And it appears that you have a lot more to learn.:)
But don't take my advice wrong,I am trying to prevent you from damaging your rifle or hurting yourself.You really do need to spend some time and do some more research into reloading safely.I could care less if you ever learn to develop the most accurate loads,as long as you don't hurt yourself.
 
overthetop said:
Well if you read all of them you would see I am watching for pressure signs and staying within the ranges in the book. The max for the powder I am using is 97.7...I saw no signs at 95 but a decrease in accuracy.....And I have been reloding for 2 years now, have a buddy helping who has been at it for 10+ years, and I have you guys....;) that's why I started this thread! I am learning lots....
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Yeah, well be careful..... karma's a #####.... :evil:
 
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