What make a zero shift?

VZsammy

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What are the MOST obvious causes(and why) and what are the MOST affordable solutions for this?

My priority as of now is not to have a extremely precise rifle since I shoot a factory rifle with factory ammo. My mean goal is to have the peace of mine of knowing that the rifle keeps her zero for the first shot in the field.

Unbed stock?
Bad ring?
Bad base?
Bad scope?

Here is my humble starting set-up to give you a idea :
700 Varminter BDL .243 action
700P Barrel (thanks to a fellow CGN)
700P Stock (on his way thanks to a fellow CGN)
Busnell Banner 6-24x40
No sure of the two pieces base's name
No sure of the two screws rings's name

Ho! And it get worst : I'm on budget this summer and I will carry it in my drag bag to the range and in the field.

Thanks a lot guy
 
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Bed the action, free float the barrel and make sure everything is tight, go shoot.
If the scope holds Zero, everything else should. Different lots of the same ammo can shoot to a different POI. Upgrade when the fund become available. Don't worry about the drag bag, my rifle travels hundreds of miles sometimes in a soft case, never had a problem with a shifting zero.
 
Bed the action (a million ways to do this, some are VERY cheap). make sure the barrel floats free - work the inside of the stock if you have to with sandpaper / dremel to make sure it floats (a least 2-3 peices of plain paper clearance) and then revarnish the stock if is wood. (hopefully you got a BDL/composite stock - if not just make sure you have good clearance and you'll be fine.)

The most important thing I've found with my multiple 700's is the rings and bases must be good and solid. If it was me I would by the picatinny rail and use one peice rings. Much more solid and it looks cool. USE LOCKTIGHT BLUE on the base / rifle bolts and acutally use a TORQUE wrench to get the right specs - but be aware that sometimes the specs of the bolts are a bit low - if you don't feel they are right contact me and I'll look up the size and material in one of my machinist books and give you the MAX that you don't want to exceed. I've never had a problem with the factory torques (save m1a scope mounts....arg) on base rails.

As for ammunition, certain types of ammunition work well in certain guns. Experiment and find which ammunition groups better. You'll find the Federal Match stuff will probably work the best, but it is pricey and isn't really for hunting..... four legged mammals anyways.

cheers and PM me if you need some more bad advice :)
 
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Really interesting question, but I'm not sure how to go about analyzing it. There are factors that change the relationship between various aspects of the rifle and optic system and, in turn, their relationship to the environment, all of these things can change your zero point of aim. There are also conditions in the environment that change where the zero point of aim is. Once I was sure I had my rifle system stable, e.g. destressed scope, action screws tight, mounts tight, and so on. Then I would calculate zero on the basis of where the bullets went. I haven't done it in recent years, but I would get up really early and try to get dead calm air to measure my initial zero. A couple of hours later I would shoot at a target in what I thought was calm air with maybe a little mirage or warmer air or higher light levels and I'd hit somewhere else (maybe not far away,but somewhere else). Once I adjusted zero on the basis of this new location the rifle would be consistent until the conditions changed again. So, I often recalculate zeros. Does anyone else have another way of looking at this and use different methods I wonder?
 
When you mount the scope, make sure it's in the "middle" of it's adjustment range. For example if your scope can adjust 60 clicks of elevation make sure its more or less in the middle in other words 30 cllicks. Do the same with windage. A scope that is at the edge of its range can have a "wandering zero"

Also a ring/base setup that puts the scope under stress when the screws are tightened can cause a zero to shift.
 
BC Fred pretty much nailed it, but I curious to know if you actually have a problem. Have you in fact experienced a change in POI or are you just worried you might because you haven't spent $10K on your rifle? If you shoot the rifle over a period of time and record the climatic conditions, particularly temperature, wind, humidity, the location, the target angle, your ammunition details and lot number etc, over time you will be able to determine if your POI is repeatable or at least what tolerances you can anticipate from it.

If you are shooting factory ammunition, you can expect changes in POI from one lot number to another.

Shifts in POI will occur seasonally if you are a cold weather shooter. Cold air is denser and this effect the bullet's flight. Cold temperature also effects the gas pressure created upon firing. Oh, by the way, Hodgdon's Extreme powder line is temperature stable at high temperature not low. At -35 expect a drop of 100 fps or so.

Although I don't seem to use them anymore, I've had pretty good luck with cheap scopes, and for years used a 3-9X40 Bushnell when I "upgraded" from a fixed K series Weaver. Once it's zeroed, a cheap scope should be able to hold it's zero. A problem might occur when you wish to engage long range targets and make precise adjustments to do so. Even some expensive scopes are not repeatable when it comes to dialing in large adjustments for elevation or wind then returning to the original zero. The test for this is called shooting a box. This is where you fire one round at a 100 yard target, adjust 6 MOA up then, using the same aiming point, fire one round, adjust 6 MOA right and fire one round, adjust 6 MOA down and fire one round, adjust 6 MOA left and fire one round. When you examine your target the first and last bullets should cut the same hole, and the other 4 holes should form the corners of a neat box. If your scope fails the test, don't be disheartened, just acknowledge that your adjustments are not repeatable so adjusting the scope for long range or for wind conditions will not produce reliable results. You'll just have to do like the rest of us and learn to hold off for the correction.

There are two stock related conditions that could lead to a shift in POI. One is that the rifle changes it's POI with changes in humidity and the other is that the POI moves as the barrel heats up. In the case of humidity, a shift of POI indicates that the stock material is not stable and changes shape as it soaks up moisture or dries out. As the stock changes shape pressure is applied to or relieved from the barrel or receiver and barrel and sight are no longer in coincidence. While a bedding job might help to address this problem, I doubt if it resolves it completely because the stock is still going to move. Barrel heating effecting the POI is a simpler fix, and is normally addressed by free floating the barrel.

One particularly troubling problem relates to a shifting POI is the rifle that shoots its first shot and inch or more away from the subsequent shots. This can be allowed for with a hunting rifle, as the rifle would simply be sighted in for the POI for the first shot, but when a guy has invested in what he has hopped would be a precision rig it's a problem. You could try various combinations of firing from a clean or fouled barrel, but it is doubtful that you will ever have complete confidence in that rifle until the barrel is changed.

Drag bags provide pretty good protection, I don't think you have an issue there. Certainly a drag bag provides better protection for your rifle than my Pelican case does for my target rifle. Not that the Pelican isn't a good robust case, but because I leave it at home because it's too damn bulky, too slow to open, and I have to remove the bolt, take off the sling, close up the stock adjustments and remove the bipod so that it will fit in the case. Mostly my ridiculously expensive rifle just bumps along beside me propped up against the front seat of the pick-up.
 
Thanks alot guys for the replies. And for those wondering, I effectively experienced a considerable shift in zero of 1" low and 1.5" left upon comming back from the field in search of some woodchucks on past saturday.

You pointed me out alot of things that could have shift my zero from my visit to the range on friday to my other visit to the range on sunday and I will try to deal with the more obvious possible causes in the upcomming weeks.

- For now, I think the weakest point is the cheap rings and base setup. From your replies, I don't feel that something else could have shifted the zero that much.

-Also, you gave me a hint about repetability of the scope. That could also be a cause since when my friend resetted the upper turret for me, he also showed me how to turn it on and get it back to the zero...

Thanks again guys and be assure that from now, I will pay attention to the factors that you pointed me out.
 
Your scope is your weak link in your equipment...

and as previously mentioned, P.O.I. can change simply by clouds and sunlight... and wind... within seconds...
 
VZsammy, Boomer hit the scope repeatability on the nail, through the wood and into the next fence post. His post should be a sticky.

As for his point about the damn pelican cases. I have a m1a supermatch that shoots less then 1/2" group (at times), and no it doesn't have a savage accutrigger :) but by the time I get that thing into it's pelican case and up the stairs and into my f350 (the springs sag with it in the back... lol). I'm tempted just to throw it on the seat beside me. Drag bags are often overpriced for what you get and most people don't sniper crawl with it tied to their vest. You can get some really decent CHEAP cases at Worshipers of Satans Silverware (wholesale sports) that can do just as good of a job as a 300 dollar drag bag.

cheers,
 
Even if everything else was perfect, shooting position will affect your mpi(mean point of impact)
Whatever the rifle is resting on will have an affect as well. Don"t lean your rifle on a hard surface as it will jump away from it on firing. I don"t use a bipod on my centrefires for that reason(mpi changes depending on the surface below the pod) I recomend getting a rucksack(esp if you intend to hunt) for a rest.
I keep my cold weather gear(wool mask thick gloves, towels,etc) in my rucksack and use it for a rest all year. This way I"m always shooting off the same surface.
I would also try shooting a group with a clean barrel(clean after every shot)
and then comparing it to a group through a fouled barrel(after a dozen rounds)
I"d be surprised if you don"t shoot higher(at 100 mtrs) with a clean barrel(my rifles do!)
There"s no substitute for just shooting lots of rounds, and observing the results!
 
Don't forget about you.

You, the shooter, should be striving to have the same hold from shot to shot. Your check in the same place, consistent grip pressure, consistent trigger pull pressure and direction etc. etc.

Just the other day I was at the range doing some load development. I couldn't understand what I was seeing on paper until I realized, for some reason, I was wrestling the gun more than I was shooting it. Once I calmed down and got down to fundamentals my groups tightened right back to where they were supposed to be.
 
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