What materials to buy to finish a Boyd's VIP stock?
- Thread starter thebaron
- Start date
Sandpaper. Lots of it. You'll wish you had a random orbital palm sander, too, but it's not required. The more time spent sanding, the better it'll turn out. You'll need 80 grit, 120, 240, 320, 800 and 1500 at minimum I'd suggest.
Sand it progressively up to 1500 grit until it shines. Then I'd slather it in raw linseed oil for a few coats to ensure that it has drunk up all the oil it can. Buff with a cloth or paper towel after a few days of drying - you'll be at a satin/semi-gloss finish by now. You could simply wax and buff here and you're done. Or, if gloss is desired, go for the Tru oil. Apply a coat, let it cure for a day then buff the ever living snot out of it with a soft cloth - a wax buffing compound helps, but finish it up with a clean cloth. Repeat as tru-oil and buffing as desired for an ultra-premium ultra-high-lustre finish that NOTHING from a factory will match.
The more time you can spend with the sandpaper, the better. The 80 and 120 grit are only for shaping and removing the tool marks, most your time will probably be spent with the 240 and 320 grit.
You may also need a dremel and sanding drums for fine-tuning the inletting. Also you should think about bedding the action to the stock, so grab an epoxy bedding kit while you're out. Devcron/steel epoxy works well.
Sand it progressively up to 1500 grit until it shines. Then I'd slather it in raw linseed oil for a few coats to ensure that it has drunk up all the oil it can. Buff with a cloth or paper towel after a few days of drying - you'll be at a satin/semi-gloss finish by now. You could simply wax and buff here and you're done. Or, if gloss is desired, go for the Tru oil. Apply a coat, let it cure for a day then buff the ever living snot out of it with a soft cloth - a wax buffing compound helps, but finish it up with a clean cloth. Repeat as tru-oil and buffing as desired for an ultra-premium ultra-high-lustre finish that NOTHING from a factory will match.
The more time you can spend with the sandpaper, the better. The 80 and 120 grit are only for shaping and removing the tool marks, most your time will probably be spent with the 240 and 320 grit.
You may also need a dremel and sanding drums for fine-tuning the inletting. Also you should think about bedding the action to the stock, so grab an epoxy bedding kit while you're out. Devcron/steel epoxy works well.
I have not that long ago put a lot of elbow grease into probably the same stock that you have. I agree with everything that Prosper says, except I would caution you on one thing. I did not use any oil on mine because when doing my research, I found out that oils will penetrate between the laminations and cause the glue that bonds the laminate to separate. Again, I haven't witnessed or done this, just heard about it and stayed away from oil as a result. Instead, I used one single spray can of satin finish polyurethane from Rona or Home Depot (Rona is Canadian, so buy there and you also get airmiles). When doing the stock, remove the recoil pad, to make sure you coat underneath it. And yes, the inletting should also be coated to totally seal the wood. I pillar mounted and glass bedded mine....before even thinking about finishing. The complete job, took me slightly more than a week. But it was worth it not only for cosmetics, but for accuracy.
Finally, your stock should have come with a full set of instructions on finishing from Boyd's. If not, you can download it from their website.
gitrdun
Finally, your stock should have come with a full set of instructions on finishing from Boyd's. If not, you can download it from their website.
gitrdun
right out of there catalogue.....just taking a break from sanding mine right now. I got a pepper laminate jrs stock because of the six month wait on the target stock. I am using a bright light to ensure that I get all of the tooling marks off. You can also find these instructions on their website. Cheers
hmmm, I was told that the epoxy used in laminate stocks was oil-proof. (well, linseed-proof. Mineral oils are another matter; but linseed (and other polymerizing oils) should be ok) In any case, I much prefer stained/oiled finishes that penetrate the material as opposed to surface finished which will scratch/peel in time. An oil finish will fade as it wears, and look much more natural than a poly finish that starts to peel or flake off the surface.
I also see I neglected to cover the 'whiskering' steps, #2 and 3 on the instructions above. These steps can be repeated several times to increase effectiveness. Furthermore, I'm NOT a big fan of wet sanding the varnish - it's completely unnecessary with the penetrating oil finishes I prefer, assuming you've gotten the bare wood to the 'shiny' stage with ultra-fine sandpapers. A method I have used before is buffing between coats with ultra-fine steel wool, but only after the previous coat has dried. Probably not the best approach to take if you're planning on using a polyurethane or similar surface varnish - a little bit of texture to the wood (say 320 grit) would help the finish adhere better, I'd imagine.
Still, I hate varnishes. Give me a nice oil any day of the week
I also see I neglected to cover the 'whiskering' steps, #2 and 3 on the instructions above. These steps can be repeated several times to increase effectiveness. Furthermore, I'm NOT a big fan of wet sanding the varnish - it's completely unnecessary with the penetrating oil finishes I prefer, assuming you've gotten the bare wood to the 'shiny' stage with ultra-fine sandpapers. A method I have used before is buffing between coats with ultra-fine steel wool, but only after the previous coat has dried. Probably not the best approach to take if you're planning on using a polyurethane or similar surface varnish - a little bit of texture to the wood (say 320 grit) would help the finish adhere better, I'd imagine.
Still, I hate varnishes. Give me a nice oil any day of the week
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There is more than one way to skin a cat. It does depend on what finish you want: matte, semi-gloss, glossy.
I am biased, but for gloss I favour a catalyzed urethane enamel. It offers the highest gloss, can be laid down smooth as glass, will fill minor pinholes and imperfections, and if you use a quality product it will be very durable. IMO, the only drawback is the higher cost.
If it's out of a rattle can, it aint high quality.
I am biased, but for gloss I favour a catalyzed urethane enamel. It offers the highest gloss, can be laid down smooth as glass, will fill minor pinholes and imperfections, and if you use a quality product it will be very durable. IMO, the only drawback is the higher cost.
If it's out of a rattle can, it aint high quality.
I am looking for a semi-gloss finish. I will mull over the suggestions for a while as I really don't know what route to take.
Does anyone have any brand suggestions for linseed oil?
My stock came with no instructions or materials as stated... hmmm.
I'll for sure take some pictures when I'm done.
Does anyone have any brand suggestions for linseed oil?
My stock came with no instructions or materials as stated... hmmm.
I'll for sure take some pictures when I'm done.
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What type of wax do I use when I am done with the linseed oil?
What do you recommend I use to apply the oil? Rags?
As you guys can tell, I am new to finishing a stock, so thanks for all of your advice!! I want this baby to look oh so sweet.
Remington 700 stainless w/ pepper laminate stock, gonna be ###y!
What do you recommend I use to apply the oil? Rags?
As you guys can tell, I am new to finishing a stock, so thanks for all of your advice!! I want this baby to look oh so sweet.
Remington 700 stainless w/ pepper laminate stock, gonna be ###y!
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Dont use BLO (linseed oil) on laminates! While it won't directly dissolve the poly glues, it will form pockets between the voids in the lams, and cause problems later.
Also, any sanding you do past 320 is a waste of time and can actually glaze the wood. Finish will not stick well to glazed wood, and any film-forming finish will level 320g scratches anyway. Trust me on this.
For a semi gloss stock, I would use either A: gloss wipe-on poly(5-6 coats, lightly rubbed out with XXF steel wool between coats) Once cured you can dictate the amount of sheen you want by rubbing with a clean piece of ###F steel wool. Note, the poly will change the colour of the stock somewhat (as will any oil based finish) *Easiest*
My homade finish wich works even better is
40% Tung oil (lee valley)
40% Spar varnish (NOT urethane)
20% Turpentine
3-4 drops of Japan Drier (available at paint stores)
Wipe on a heavy coat, allow to sit for 20 minutes, buff off. Leave for 4 hours then repeat. Once you have 4-5 coats, allow to cure for 48 hours then rub-out with ###F steel wool, then apply a coat of paste wax with a soft terry cloth.
or
B: If you want the colour of the stock to stay as it is, use either laquer or water-based poly. Again, use gloss and then tone down the shine when done.
or
Send it to my shop.....it's kinda what I do
Ryan
Also, any sanding you do past 320 is a waste of time and can actually glaze the wood. Finish will not stick well to glazed wood, and any film-forming finish will level 320g scratches anyway. Trust me on this.
For a semi gloss stock, I would use either A: gloss wipe-on poly(5-6 coats, lightly rubbed out with XXF steel wool between coats) Once cured you can dictate the amount of sheen you want by rubbing with a clean piece of ###F steel wool. Note, the poly will change the colour of the stock somewhat (as will any oil based finish) *Easiest*
My homade finish wich works even better is
40% Tung oil (lee valley)
40% Spar varnish (NOT urethane)
20% Turpentine
3-4 drops of Japan Drier (available at paint stores)
Wipe on a heavy coat, allow to sit for 20 minutes, buff off. Leave for 4 hours then repeat. Once you have 4-5 coats, allow to cure for 48 hours then rub-out with ###F steel wool, then apply a coat of paste wax with a soft terry cloth.
or
B: If you want the colour of the stock to stay as it is, use either laquer or water-based poly. Again, use gloss and then tone down the shine when done.
or
Send it to my shop.....it's kinda what I do
Ryan
light sanding between coats is normal, 320 grit wet or dry is probably a better choice as is triple F steel wool......post pictures. I have a little more fine tuning on my inlaying and then I can install my alluminum pillars and bed the action, then I will begin the finishing. I wet it down lightly yesterday and mine looks sweet. I am pretty excited and have to tell myself to go slow but I cannot wait to see it all done.
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If you are NOT using a water based finish, steel wool (###F) is the best choice by a mile. Rub the snot out of it then apply the next coat. If you ARE using a water based finish, avoid steel wool at all costs and lightly sand with 400 grit automotive wet-or-dry paper.
Ryan
Ryan
