What muzzle device Rem 700 in .223?

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Recently came to possess a brand new Rem 700 Tactical in .223 Rem.
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-sps-tactical

16.5-inch bull barrel.

Muzzle threaded 5/8x24, which is a 30 cal thread. (Having watched a vid about muzzle threading, I'm glad it's not 1/2 x28.)

Would you put a muzzle device on a bolt-action .223 alleged tack driver, made for target and hunting?

What muzzle device would you choose?

Why?

Thanx for your replies.


FWIW reviews at TheTruthAboutguns.com stickied above have me leaning towards a combo like the EFAB https://precisionarmament.com/product/efab-hybrid-muzzle-brake/

Before I buy a muzzle device it needs a decent case. They come in 38 and 42 inches.

Without a muzzle device this gun will fit in a 38-inch case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L4FQ3SS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&th=1

Then it need optics and accessories...
 
I have a Rainer arms mini comp on mine (24”) and it is very effective but it is a 1/2 28 brake.

Why are you glad it is not 1/2-28?
 
Interesting... in the stickied thread of muzzle device tests, there's a post that only flash hiders are necessary on .223... and yet everybody here is using a brake.

Why are you glad it is not 1/2-28?
[video]https://youtu.be/###_YXzJJOU [/video]

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On a 223 I'd put a linear brake to try and not annoy the other guys on the firing line.
A bolt action 223 for hunting or target doesn't really need anything. I'm sure someone will be a night time terrorist hunter with their hunting rifle and correct me.
 
Those threads should be 1/2-28 if it's a factory 223 barrel.

Do you need a brake on a heavy bolt action 223? No.
That being said, pick whatever one fits your budget that you like the looks of, it will make very little difference in the performance of the rifle.
I personally prefer not to run a brake on my guns but usually put them on anyway since I don't shoot at public ranges and don't have to worry about the guy sitting next to me.
 
Those threads should be 1/2-28 if it's a factory 223 barrel.

<sarcasm>Good thing Remington has you to correct their mistake. </sarcasm>
Did you watch the video linked to above?

Do you need a brake on a heavy bolt action 223? No.

That being said, pick whatever one fits your budget that you like the looks of, it will make very little difference in the performance of the rifle.
I personally prefer not to run a brake on my guns but usually put them on anyway since I don't shoot at public ranges and don't have to worry about the guy sitting next to me.

If it won't make much diff then i'll focus on the scope and mounts and a case first.
 
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Interesting... in the stickied thread of muzzle device tests, there's a post that only flash hiders are necessary on .223... and yet everybody here is using a brake.


[video]https://youtu.be/###_YXzJJOU [/video]

Best to copy and paste the link. Every once in a while this forum software refuses to handle YT links appropriately.

many run brakes on their 223 semis because it reduces muzzle rise, which helps with fast follow-up shots.
running one on a 223 bolt gun helps with spotting hits/misses, which can be important to those who shoot 223s at longer distances.
I've owned 223s with and without brakes, including rifles I've shot back to back with and without them installed. they do make a difference, it's up to you to decide if the noise is worth it.
 
That redirection is back at the shooter. And the increase on perceived noise to the shooter when running a brake isn't remotely minor.

Precisionrifleblog measured the difference (in decibels) between no muzzle device and several popular brakes at different positions beside and behind the muzzle of a 308. Some muzzle brakes increased noise, 64.5" behind the muzzle, by as much as 14db over shots with no brake. To put that in perspective, a 10db increase in SPL is perceived as roughly twice as loud to our ears. Our ears usually sit quite a bit closer than 64.5" away from the muzzle (could be literally less than half that distance for short barreled rifles) which means we could see 6-7db higher SPL at our ears than what they measured in their test.
Straight-baffled brakes, according to their test, will be 2-3x louder at the shooter's ears compared to shooting with a bare muzzle. For people with brakes with angled baffles, it could be nearly 4 times (20db) louder at our ears, compared to no brake. That difference is enormous.

I'm a believer in muzzle brakes, even on a little 223, as long as good hearing pro is used. I made the mistake, once, of forgetting to pull my muffs back down when sighting in an 18.6" barreled 223 with a vg6 gamma brake. For 2-3 minutes I literally thought I had made myself deaf.
 
It's not just the sound that can and probably will increase for the shooter... there is also a pressure wave.

I was shooting an RPR in 308 with a brake at my local range, which is like shooting from inside a concrete bunker out a garage door from the middle of the room.

With the steel overhang to stop us from firing over the berm, the sound and shock wave would just reverberate, so one shot felt like 50.

I literally got a bloody nose one day after I had gone 3 consecutive days in a row. Every shot felt like I was getting punched in the nose.

Never had that happen before with no brake.

Since you guys are talking about 223, some he man types would discount the need, but reducing recoil is the key to spotting your shots in the air past about 2 or 300 yards.

I just put together a new rifle in 223 with a Cadex brake on it and recoil is very mild and I can watch bullets fly to the target at 390 yards in the sun from a prone position.

Still working on getting it to track the way I want from a barricade so I can call my shots in PRS

I don't know how well the Cadex brake performs against others, but it does seem to help... even if it isn't designed for 223.
 
Most muzzle devices fall into the loudener category on a .223 bolt gun. Typical baffle brakes with no design towards muzzle flip did nothing more than add a little blast. Not a lot but it was noticeable. Muzzle flip wasn't really changed. I'd go with a precision rifle brake designed exclusively for reducing or eliminating flip. There isn't enough recoil to care about but killing the muzzle flip is a very nice bonus on an LR rifle. This should be easily accomplished on a .223. If not that then I'd go either lightweight linear comp like the S&J nano or a thread protector. The linear will reduce blast a tiny bit but that's it. I see no point to a brake that increases perceived blast and especially blows gases back at you if it's not eliminating muzzle flip. Cause there's nothing else for a brake to do on a .223 bolt gun.
 
Interesting... in the stickied thread of muzzle device tests, there's a post that only flash hiders are necessary on .223... and yet everybody here is using a brake.


[video]https://youtu.be/###_YXzJJOU [/video]

OK, seems the letters in the link make a word the forum software does not like, hence it won't link to the vid.

Copy and paste this: https://youtu.be/C U m_YXzJJOU

Then remove the two gaps on each side of the U.

Best to copy and paste the link. Every once in a while this forum software refuses to handle YT links appropriately.


Well I watched the vid. I have many rifles with 1/2-24 (223) and 5/8-24 ( 6.5 and 308) all shoot under 1 moa so unless I was building up a bench rail gun I don’t think it will matter much if at all.
 
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On a 223 I'd put a linear brake to try and not annoy the other guys on the firing line.
A bolt action 223 for hunting or target doesn't really need anything. I'm sure someone will be a night time terrorist hunter with their hunting rifle and correct me.


Unless you want to watch your trace.
 
I shot the same rifle you purchased out to long distances and there is no need for one. I could spot my own shots and on the really far shots you can take a second to reposition then see the impact.
 
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