Hey guys so my SKS from Frontier is going to be here in a few weeks and I wanted to ask a few things about corrosive ammo. Most people say to use CLP, windex or just boiling water. What I want to know is what parts of the gun do I clean with it ? Also how do you go about using the boiling water, just dunk the parts in a pot of water and pour boiling water down the barrel then dry and oil them ?
What parts of a SKS do you clean after using corrosive ammo
- Thread starter GDavies
- Start date
- Location
- British Columbia, Lower Mainland
So pretty much either soak it down with boiling water or flush it with windex?
then lube?
What do you guys use to lube, just normal gun oil?
I just bought A CZ858 today so I'm curious how i'm going to clean it tommorow after a shoot.
then lube?
What do you guys use to lube, just normal gun oil?
I just bought A CZ858 today so I'm curious how i'm going to clean it tommorow after a shoot.
agreed .... first i run a brush thru the bore a few time to loosen the corrosive then i hang the barrel in the laundry tub , using a 1L electric kettle , i pour down the chamber , thru the bore and into the tray below of loose parts .
quickly , dry the bore and resume cleaning as you normally would of non-corrosive .
NOTE : most russian SKS45 are chrome bore but the earlier models are not chrome so heed lone-wolf warning .
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- Location
- Not really sure.
Basically everything on the firearm thats made of metal 
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.I never did bother to do the boiling water thing ...... Just scrub the barrel and gas cylinder with CLP REAL good and leave a good, thick film of CLP in the gas cylinder and bore, as well as the gas piston .... Wipe it all off before heading to the range .... My SKS still works fine ...
PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
Windex
Brake cleaner (watch your skin, eyes and lungs!) is better used as a degreaser PRIOR to water or Windex application. It doesn't act as a salt solvent.
But, by cleaning the oil or greasy residues it can uncover salts which will be solubilized with the water or water-bearing Windex. The sole advantage of Windex is that ammonia is also a degreaser of sorts; it also attacks copper deposits if left long enough.
PP.
Brake cleaner (watch your skin, eyes and lungs!) is better used as a degreaser PRIOR to water or Windex application. It doesn't act as a salt solvent.
But, by cleaning the oil or greasy residues it can uncover salts which will be solubilized with the water or water-bearing Windex. The sole advantage of Windex is that ammonia is also a degreaser of sorts; it also attacks copper deposits if left long enough.
PP.
- Location
- Just West of the GTA
I tear down all the way then clean with a home made mix called Ed's Red. Do a search on it, the recipe is easy to find. The mix has solvents and oil. I bet there are guys who will agree and disagree with the formulae (I see both sides of the argument), but it is endorsed by the NRA, removes corrosive and other deposits and it just works. Great for bores and it leaves a very small amount of oil behind that protects. I have found that my SKS is prone to stovepiping if I use too much oil. I clean with Ed's and that's it. Very cheap to make the stuff and I like DIY projects.
I would not recommend to use windshield washer fluid - it is to poison for no reason, it contains nothing to neutralize acid. It is much better use windex - ammonium in it is doing a right job. I found only one thing which works better that windex - MG Chemicals Glass Cleaner because of foaming action it works as degreaser as well.
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I emailed Break Free about their CLP line which is what I've been using to clean my CZ-858. I asked if CLP would dissipate the corrosive powder left behind etc. This is what their response was
"It will keep it from doing damage long enough for you to properly maintain your weapon within a 48 hour period. While actively firing this material it will protect your weapon"
I've only been using CLP after shooting and haven't used windex or hot water. I'm going to continue doing only the CLP route and see what happens.
"It will keep it from doing damage long enough for you to properly maintain your weapon within a 48 hour period. While actively firing this material it will protect your weapon"
I've only been using CLP after shooting and haven't used windex or hot water. I'm going to continue doing only the CLP route and see what happens.
Hot soapy water (use dish detergent) is a cheap and effective means of removing the corrosive salts. Use very hot (near boiling) water to rinse. The hot metal will evaporate any remaining moisture from the barrel and other parts. Then clean with CLP. If you have copper fouling in the barrel, use a ammonia based cleaner then finish off with CLP. Good to go.
