What range do you sight in your ARs?

What range do you sight in your ARs?

  • 100 yard zero

    Votes: 68 39.5%
  • 50/200 yard zero

    Votes: 90 52.3%
  • 300 yard zero

    Votes: 4 2.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 10 5.8%

  • Total voters
    172
Could you tell me what make an Manufacture an bullet weight you use.
Thx.

federal, xm855 green tip on an 18.5 inch barrel

M855%2036%20vs%20100%20yard%20zeros%2020%20inch%20barrel%2001_zps25oivcze.jpg
 
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I sight in @ 10 yards :) which ends up being a 50/200 yard zero.

Here is the target.

http://jerkingthetrigger.com/2015/02/13/zeroing-target-50200-yard-zero-at-10-yards/
 
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Ok. I have a dumb question for you experts here. Please bear with me if this doesn't make any sense.

For the purpose of this question, I am going to use some hypothetical numbers for the sake of conversation.

Lets just say that I want to zero my AR (or any rifle of that matter) with a 100 yard zero.

However, my skills to shoot and see the holes at 100 yards is not up to par. However, I have no issue shooting accurately or seeing my holes on paper at 50 yards.

If I were to look up the ballistic trajectory of said round, and with a 100 yard zero it prints 0.5" high at 50 yards, does that mean that I can zero it at 50 yards and then dial it up by 0.5" (again at 50 yards) to get a 100 yard zero POA/POI?

Or am I completely wrong on this?
 
I assume MLP is talking about one of these setups.

TA31F-RMR_additional_popup_1.jpg


On the topic of ACOGs, I've heard they use a 36m/300m zero. Can anyone explain how that works?

What you posted is a DUAL optic setup. The ACOG is the magnified optic and the RMR is piggybacked atop the ACOG. ACOG's are designed for a 100 metre/yard zero for most models.

The 36/300 yard zero is APPROXIMATE just like the 50/200 zero is APPROXIMATE.

Ok. I have a dumb question for you experts here. Please bear with me if this doesn't make any sense.

For the purpose of this question, I am going to use some hypothetical numbers for the sake of conversation.

Lets just say that I want to zero my AR (or any rifle of that matter) with a 100 yard zero.

However, my skills to shoot and see the holes at 100 yards is not up to par. However, I have no issue shooting accurately or seeing my holes on paper at 50 yards.

If I were to look up the ballistic trajectory of said round, and with a 100 yard zero it prints 0.5" high at 50 yards, does that mean that I can zero it at 50 yards and then dial it up by 0.5" (again at 50 yards) to get a 100 yard zero POA/POI?

Or am I completely wrong on this?


You're right you can shoot at 50 and take into account where your POI should be for a 100 yard zero. The problem with zeroing where your bullet first crosses your line of sight is that it's often very close and any difference in either windage or elevation often goes undetected. Your group looks great up close but when you start shooting at distance those imperceptible errors of windage and elevation wreak havoc. Zeroing at the close range is a great way to get on paper and give you a rough idea where your rounds should hit at distance. It is always best to zero at your intended distance and then shoot at other intermediate distances to determine where your hold lines(In an ACOG for instance) actually correspond.
 
Ok. I have a dumb question for you experts here. Please bear with me if this doesn't make any sense.

For the purpose of this question, I am going to use some hypothetical numbers for the sake of conversation.

Lets just say that I want to zero my AR (or any rifle of that matter) with a 100 yard zero.

However, my skills to shoot and see the holes at 100 yards is not up to par. However, I have no issue shooting accurately or seeing my holes on paper at 50 yards.

If I were to look up the ballistic trajectory of said round, and with a 100 yard zero it prints 0.5" high at 50 yards, does that mean that I can zero it at 50 yards and then dial it up by 0.5" (again at 50 yards) to get a 100 yard zero POA/POI?

Or am I completely wrong on this?

Dial down 1 MOA from 50 yd zero to 100 yds zero. Also don't confuse inches with MOA. 0.5 inches at 50 yds = 1 MOA.
 
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You're right you can shoot at 50 and take into account where your POI should be for a 100 yard zero. The problem with zeroing where your bullet first crosses your line of sight is that it's often very close and any difference in either windage or elevation often goes undetected. Your group looks great up close but when you start shooting at distance those imperceptible errors of windage and elevation wreak havoc. Zeroing at the close range is a great way to get on paper and give you a rough idea where your rounds should hit at distance. It is always best to zero at your intended distance and then shoot at other intermediate distances to determine where your hold lines(In an ACOG for instance) actually correspond.

Thank you! My biggest issue is with my .17hmr.

I can't see my holes at 100 yards. I am practicing at improving my skill at 100 by shooting spent shotgun casings, but with my gun zeroed at 50 yards, it is off at 100 when aiming at small targets (granted I am skill trying to get better at steadying my aim).

I just thought that if I can guarantee my zero at 100 yards via 50 yards, I will know all my misses are my own, and not the fault of my zero.
 
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