I know this gets asked all the time but I'm just getting into long range shooting And am going to be getting my first rifle for it. I was planning on getting a rem 700 in 308 but my friend says that the short action isn't good because in the chassis you can't load heavier bullets to longer lengths. He recommended the Tikka varmint. What would you guys recommend? I will be putting it into a cadex chassis I believe unless I change my mind for another one.
What rifle..?
- Thread starter Matty308
- Start date
I'm curious to know why the T3 CTR over the T3 Varmint model ?
What I don't like about the CTR is that they use TRG mags ( read 250$ mags ).
I have both (M700 and T3) - you can get much longer in a Remington than a Tikka. Tikka mag max is 2.82", my Rem is much longer - i didn't measure it exact, but I can shoot 2.86" 308 loads with room to spare.
However, for more $$, you can change the Tikka to a long action by simply changing the action stop and going to a long action mag (add$125ish).
I am one of the few that had bad shooters with my Tikkas - 4 of the 5 were not MOA despite tweaking and sending back to factory. I still have one that I plan to swap the barrel for a benchmark or Krieger, and put a real recoil lug on it - as I really do like their slick action!
Do note Tikka's MOA guarantee is with factory loads only - they are pretty clear about that when you talk to them.
However, for more $$, you can change the Tikka to a long action by simply changing the action stop and going to a long action mag (add$125ish).
I am one of the few that had bad shooters with my Tikkas - 4 of the 5 were not MOA despite tweaking and sending back to factory. I still have one that I plan to swap the barrel for a benchmark or Krieger, and put a real recoil lug on it - as I really do like their slick action!
Do note Tikka's MOA guarantee is with factory loads only - they are pretty clear about that when you talk to them.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Why not lay out your LR shooting goals? how far? rocks and gongs or competition? If comp, what type?
There are many many many answers to this question as it is so broad.
A budget would be useful too.
If you have a chosen a chassis, which is it? that will help define the other bits and pieces that go along.
LR shooting is like saying "I want to buy a car".
The more you define your goals, the better the answers to help can be.
Jerry
There are many many many answers to this question as it is so broad.
A budget would be useful too.
If you have a chosen a chassis, which is it? that will help define the other bits and pieces that go along.
LR shooting is like saying "I want to buy a car".
The more you define your goals, the better the answers to help can be.
Jerry
do you mind answering my goals? I currently have a weatherby vanguard s2 .223. After my first range visit i am content sticking with the .223. i want to eventually "upgrade" the weatherby. All i will be doing is paper punching at 100/200/300m ranges at my club. No hunting and no competition. The only competition i am interested in are the sub moa challenges in this section.
I was initially looking at the tikka t3 lite and add a mdt chassis. But then i started considering the tikka t3 varmint - no mods, tikka t3 sporter, and savage 12 ftr. Ammo to be used are factory ammo preferrably 55gr because of wide availability. No reloads and i have no plans on reloading (no space in the house). Thanks for your input.
I said in the OP I'm pretty sure going to get a cadex chassis if it is supported by the rifle I choose, or else one similar. Budget for the rifle itself I'd like to keep around 1000ish plus optics and chassis. My range goals are around 1000 yards, and it won't be competition just gongs, rocksand targets. Thanks for all your input.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Unless you go into aftermarket barrels, stocks and parts, the Savage 12 FTR will suit you well. Or the Savage Open in 6BR. Factory ammo just isn't going to cut it for the most part.
Until you reload, the level of consistency you are looking for will be tough.
Barrels, bedding and bullets... those 3 really define the accuracy potential of any project.
See my article on my website in the Tech section. Also have a few posts on my dealer forum. Building an accurate rifle doesn't need to cost a fortune. Just set out realistic priorities and choose your parts wisely. Alot can happen for moderate sums of cash.
Jerry
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Since you want a Cadex Chassis, that defines everything else. However, it is a pity that you will spend a ton of money on the outside, but little on the inside. From your avatar, I see you appreciate cars.
What you are suggesting is a body kit and new paint job over a low power, oil drinking motor. The car will move but it will be "all show and NO go".
YMMV.
Jerry
Get a Tikka T3 Varmint, they shoot very well for a factory rifle and they will challenge a LOT of custom rifles costing a LOT more. Drop it into your Cadex chassis and have a ton of fun. This rifle will have lots of show AND plenty of go.
