What rifle..?

As I said before, spell out goals and objectives.

There are plenty of factory rifles around the 1 to 1.5K mark. Ultimately, being factory rifles, some shoot, some don't. So what "value" are you actually buying?

Until you break down your costs, and define what is it you are spending your money on, you will be going round in circles. Is the $1k for a complete donor rifle? An action? what exactly?

Again, you likely have a game plan in mind but are tossing out a wide net and see what else pops in.... no problem. I am sure there will be many more good suggestions including those already posted.

For my projects, I like to direct all funds clearly to specific parts and performance. That is how I get a rig that I feel is best for my goals and money.

YMMV.

Jerry
 
I agree with Jerry,

Also, I would plan on it costing more like 3-4k for a 1000 yard rig before you even get into a good optic or dies.

Mystic Precision said:
As I said before, spell out goals and objectives.

There are plenty of factory rifles around the 1 to 1.5K mark. Ultimately, being factory rifles, some shoot, some don't. So what "value" are you actually buying?

Until you break down your costs, and define what is it you are spending your money on, you will be going round in circles. Is the $1k for a complete donor rifle? An action? what exactly?

Again, you likely have a game plan in mind but are tossing out a wide net and see what else pops in.... no problem. I am sure there will be many more good suggestions including those already posted.

For my projects, I like to direct all funds clearly to specific parts and performance. That is how I get a rig that I feel is best for my goals and money.

YMMV.

Jerry
Click to expand...
 
Mystic Precision said:
Unless you go into aftermarket barrels, stocks and parts, the Savage 12 FTR will suit you well. Or the Savage Open in 6BR. Factory ammo just isn't going to cut it for the most part.

Until you reload, the level of consistency you are looking for will be tough.

Barrels, bedding and bullets... those 3 really define the accuracy potential of any project.

See my article on my website in the Tech section. Also have a few posts on my dealer forum. Building an accurate rifle doesn't need to cost a fortune. Just set out realistic priorities and choose your parts wisely. Alot can happen for moderate sums of cash.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, reloading is 99% out of the question. So, I'm stuck with factory ammo. According to your response to Matty, my idea of a Tikka T3 lite plus MDT chassis will be all for show and not enough go. I was afraid of that and that's what led me into thinking about the T3 sporter and the savage 12. So, I just want to ask - while I'm at it. I don't mind spending the extra $500-700 for a tikka t3 sporter over the savage 12...especially with the tikka having a wider range of support from the community and industry. Would you still recommend the savage 12 ftr over the tikka sporter - if money is not the issue?
 
What I usually recommend is as follows:

Buy a Rem 700 SPS
Replace the Houge stock with something better. Inexpensive Bell and Carlson up to expensive McMillian or chassis of choice
Replace the XMP with a Timney 510
Add a MOA steel rail and good rings ( I like TPS )
Buy good mid-range glass ( I like Sightron Siii 8-32x56 for example )
Buy a good bipod. Harris if you must but better if you can.

This will likely shoot better than most users.

Anyway, when all this is done shoot that factory barrel and shoot it lots. When you are ready, get a match-grade barrel installed and get the R700 all trued up.
 
Matty308, your right you do not need to spend that much on a thousand yard rig. I would recommend the 700 even though youb have your concerns regarding oal. I don't know what kind of clearance the chassis givee but it can't be any less than the factory magwell. I have a 700 in 308, varmint with heavy barrel (stock barrel) in a hs precision stock. Had it bedded and it has on it a 20 moa farrel steel base. The whole rig as it sits cost me just shy of 2000 dollars (did get some deals on ee which helped). I load 178's with an oal of 2.810 and it feeds fine from the mag. I've tried seating them longer and hand feeding. To tighten groups but haven't found it resulting in better accuracy than I'm acheiving now which hovers around 3/4to 1moa depending on how hungover I am that day :p. I have shot this rifle with great success out to 1300m (was trying for a mile that day but the dang with was just o much for the dirty0eight). Rems are a tried and true rifle with tons of aftermarket support and you'll be plenty happy with one imo.
 
Matty308 said:
I don't understand how spending 1 to 1.2k is cheaping out. not like I'm buying a cheap savage axis or something. You can get pretty good shooting base rifles For that. And then I'll upgrade it from there.
Click to expand...
a grand is cheap in the precision world unfortunately, borderline entry level IMO
 
Brian46 said:
a grand is cheap in the precision world unfortunately, borderline entry level IMO
Click to expand...

lolI'm not just spending 1000$ . I'm looking for a good base gun to build off of.

Side note, my friend has told meto look into a savage.. What model would you guys recommend to look at?
 
Protege said:
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, reloading is 99% out of the question. So, I'm stuck with factory ammo. According to your response to Matty, my idea of a Tikka T3 lite plus MDT chassis will be all for show and not enough go. I was afraid of that and that's what led me into thinking about the T3 sporter and the savage 12. So, I just want to ask - while I'm at it. I don't mind spending the extra $500-700 for a tikka t3 sporter over the savage 12...especially with the tikka having a wider range of support from the community and industry. Would you still recommend the savage 12 ftr over the tikka sporter - if money is not the issue?
Click to expand...

the factory ammo that has a good track record for being accurate IS the 223. Zillions of rds are pointed at gophers each season and alot of it is with mass produced factory ammo. You can certainly find something that will shoot sub MOA. Just the cost and time to test adds up real fast. And then the ongoing cost of shooting is much higher but if living conditions negate reloading... you gots to do whats ya gots to do.

Tikka rifles tend to shoot very well. As do many Savage rifles. WHICH ONE? Well, you will have to pays your moneys and takes your chances in both rifle AND factory ammo.

Why many of us build the rifles we shoot and handload for them.

It will actually cost less in the long run....

YMMV

Jerry
 
OK Jerry you have my interest, what rough cost would it be to build a custom barreled action In 308 or 260? I would like something heavy barrel, doesn't have to be top of line but a decent one. Same with action, I would even be OK with like a savage action or rem 700 long action. Or is that too much to ask on here? Just a rough estimate of price. I'm not against going that route at all just figured it would cost allot more.
 
Matty308 - you've already received the best advice you are likely to get. Kinda like the guy who want a pick-up and is told get a Ford or Chev - after that it ain't too likely you are gonna get much variance.

Get a heavy barreled version of whichever of Chevy, or Ford and shoot it. Most likely any Savage or Remington HB will be more than sufficient for a long time to come.

Costs to build new are very roughly:

$500 receiver
$500 barrel
$500-1500 stock
$200 trigger
$150 base
$150 rings

$xyz to have someone put together for you - varies a lot.
 
If your interested in the 6.5 caliber (260) I would strongly suggest you look at the Savage model 12 LRP in 6.5 Creedmoor. You can buy extremely accurate ammo right from Hornady off the shelf. These rifles seem to be chambered exactly for the ammo. My brother bought one, installed a NF 5.5-22x50 NXS, zeroed it at 100 yards and less than a box of factory shells later, we were hitting steel at 1050 yards.

I'd go that route.
 
Matty308;112ld be $1.5 to2K74881 said:
OK Jerry you have my interest, what rough cost would it be to build a custom barreled action In 308 or 260? I would like something heavy barrel, doesn't have to be top of line but a decent one. Same with action, I would even be OK with like a savage action or rem 700 long action. Or is that too much to ask on here? Just a rough estimate of price. I'm not against going that route at all just figured it would cost allot more.
Click to expand...

See my website in TECH for budget build info.

Prices will be out but you will get an idea of what is possible

Today, a great shooting rifle could be $1.5 to 2k minus optics - sub 1/2 moa with handloads and accurate as far as you want to shoot

Jerry
 
Protege said:
my idea of a Tikka T3 lite plus MDT chassis will be all for show and not enough go.
Click to expand...

Uh, no. With a T3 in a chassis topped with good glass and firing a good load, if you lost a precision match it wouldn't be the rifle's fault.

If you're upgrading, forget the CTR or Sporter; those are a better choice if you don't want to modify. If you're swapping out for a chassis you're wasting $$ on the more tricked out Tikkas.

Heck, an off the shelf T3 Varmint with good glass would excellent.

If you're just getting into LR shooting, my advice would be to spend a K on the rifle (T3) a K on glass (Siii from Jerry) and decent bases & rings - Burris Signature Extreme with the offset inserts for example.

Then spend the rest of your budget on ammo and shoot, shoot, shoot.

Better to spend $1000 on ammo at this stage than $1000 on parts. The stock T3 will outshoot you for a very very long time. Get it in .223 and shoot twice as much for the $.
 
Tomochan said:
What I usually recommend is as follows:

Buy a Rem 700 SPS
Replace the Houge stock with something better. Inexpensive Bell and Carlson up to expensive McMillian or chassis of choice
Replace the XMP with a Timney 510
Add a MOA steel rail and good rings ( I like TPS )
Buy good mid-range glass ( I like Sightron Siii 8-32x56 for example )
Buy a good bipod. Harris if you must but better if you can.

This will likely shoot better than most users.

Anyway, when all this is done shoot that factory barrel and shoot it lots. When you are ready, get a match-grade barrel installed and get the R700 all trued up.
Click to expand...

Except that will put you well over the cost of a T3 Varmint and still with an inferior barrel...

Buy a Tikka T3 Varmint
Add good bases & rings
Add good glass
Shoot.

Seems simpler and cheaper, no?
 
flashman said:
Uh, no. With a T3 in a chassis topped with good glass and firing a good load, if you lost a precision match it wouldn't be the rifle's fault.

If you're upgrading, forget the CTR or Sporter; those are a better choice if you don't want to modify. If you're swapping out for a chassis you're wasting $$ on the more tricked out Tikkas.

Heck, an off the shelf T3 Varmint with good glass would excellent.

If you're just getting into LR shooting, my advice would be to spend a K on the rifle (T3) a K on glass (Siii from Jerry) and decent bases & rings - Burris Signature Extreme with the offset inserts for example.

Then spend the rest of your budget on ammo and shoot, shoot, shoot.

Better to spend $1000 on ammo at this stage than $1000 on parts. The stock T3 will outshoot you for a very very long time. Get it in .223 and shoot twice as much for the $.
Click to expand...

Wow. This actually makes sense
 
Well I went around and couldn't find a tikka in any calibers I wanted so I ended up buying a savage fcp-sr in the digital camo stock. It was on sale 200$ off so that wasgood.
 
Congrats! That'll be a great rifle. Savages are outstanding shooters too.

You don't need a ton of space to reload either - even a large toolbox would be more than enough to hold everything, and you can do it at the kitchen table.

One of the cool things about reloading precision ammo is that it actually uses simpler and cheaper tools than reloading bulk plinking ammo for pistol or carbine. The typical reloading set up for a benchrest shooter is simplicity itself compared to what an IPSC shooter might have. The below video will give you a good idea. A couple of Wilson dies, arbor press, priming tool, scale, etc and you're good to go to make ammo that will be vastly superior to factory. Hornady match, one of the better commercial offerings, has .005" up to .010" run out, +/- .2 grs of powder. My reloads using Lee and Wilson dies are +/- .0005" run out with a max runout of +/- .0015 for about 10% of them. Powder charges are +/- .02 grs using a Gempro 250 (under $200). And half the cost of factory. And tailored to my rifle. etc etc etc.
 
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