What setup to get for 300 Win Mag?

Icefire

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So I got a deal on a Cadex in 300 Win Mag with a set of Redding Type S Match FL die

But I have no rifle press :(

I got a Lee 1000 in .40 s&w that is sitting for years of non shooting

What do I need to do small batch of 50-100 round?

Heard I need to use H1000 powder with some 208gr, so what’s next for un/priming, powder scale (got the one from lee), etc etc?

Don’t want to put 1000$ in this but I don’t want cheap stuff, I buy once, cry once.

Thanks!
 
A single stage press - your budget will determine which one.

This is the basic gear you need:

1. press
2. dies
3. primer tool (included with some presses)
4. cartridge loading blocks or tray
5. beam scale
6. trimming tool (use the LEE handheld, cost $15)
7. case prep tools: primer pocket cleaner, neck inside/outside beveling tool,
8. dial or digital caliper
9. powder funnel
10. loading manuals

Optional:
11. Bullet puller - not needed right away but eventually everyone needs it.
12. powder measure (not 100% necessary - can use beam scale but it's slower)

The price for those tools might range between $200 to $1000 depending on your budget. Might find it cheaper if you buy used.
 
A single stage press - your budget will determine which one.

This is the basic gear you need:

1. press
2. dies
3. primer tool (included with some presses)
4. cartridge loading blocks or tray
5. beam scale
6. trimming tool (use the LEE handheld, cost $15)
7. case prep tools: primer pocket cleaner, neck inside/outside beveling tool,
8. dial or digital caliper
9. powder funnel
10. loading manuals

Optional:
11. Bullet puller - not needed right away but eventually everyone needs it.
12. powder measure (not 100% necessary - can use beam scale but it's slower)

The price for those tools might range between $200 to $1000 depending on your budget. Might find it cheaper if you buy used.


The challenger kit comes with priming tool, powder dropper, scale, press, funnel and i think prep tools like a dinky little primer pocket cleaner and a case debarring tool.



Edit to add

Avoid these C presses, if you want a satisfying tactile feel when reloading. Pic related... They are flimsy.. and the handle wiggles side to side. Get the one that is a complete circle. A "D" press. They are MUCH stronger... These C shaped ones are like $50 and will work. but leave a lot to be desired. The one in the pic is where i started. I then moved on to a progressive and then back to the single stage Lee Challenger press. For the money it is pretty good and you wont wear it out.

20180413_171158.jpg
 
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If you really want to "buy once cry once" look at the ATRS Accu-Maxx. For big rounds it is more than up to the task. Forrester and others will get the job done as well but what I really like about the Accu-Maxx is the feedback I get from the handle. I can tell by feel if something is not just right. It sounds like you have a good set of dies to start with. Make sure you get the right bushings (.335,.336, .337) and I would highly recommend the Titanium Nitride ones. Neck tension is where you will win on consistency. I would also suggest that you get a Wilson case gauge that you can set to your rifle. I am also a fan of the collet die for belted magnums. Again, some will say that it is not required but I would use collet type dies for all rifle cases if they were available.

You bought a really nice rifle and I'm sure you have high expectations for it. It will be average if you don't feed it the right ammo. If you try to buy match grade .300wm rounds you will see a pay back on loading equipment very soon.

My thoughts for your consideration. Enjoy, .300wm is my personal favourite to shoot out to 1400m
 
It sounds like you have a good set of dies to start with. Make sure you get the right bushings (.335,.336, .337) and I would highly recommend the Titanium Nitride ones. Neck tension is where you will win on consistency.

What are those bushing? The die set I got is Full lenght resizing, are they for neck resize?

I would also suggest that you get a Wilson case gauge that you can set to your rifle. I am also a fan of the collet die for belted magnums. Again, some will say that it is not required but I would use collet type dies for all rifle cases if they were available.

I was looking to get a Factory crimp die, better with the collet?

You bought a really nice rifle and I'm sure you have high expectations for it. It will be average if you don't feed it the right ammo. If you try to buy match grade .300wm rounds you will see a pay back on loading equipment very soon.

yeah, I’ll try 20-40 rounds of factory match ammo to sight it in and try my best at 100m (max of the local range), I’ll than try the regionnal 600m!

Looking to get a Sightron 10-50x60 for it!
 
Excellent press in a very nice kit to begin with.
You'll have to add some case conditionning tools eventually ( measuring , trimming and cleaning ...) and still be within a reasonable budget.

-Hornady Aol measuring tool with modified case
-Wilson case gauge
-GemPro 250 scale
-Trickler
-Thumbler
-Frankford Arsenal case preparation center ( with case trimmer ) will possibly come if you're still there.
Reloading is not a saving money object.


http://rcbs.com/Products/Presses-an...ock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit.aspx
 
What are those bushing? The die set I got is Full lenght resizing, are they for neck resize?

Type S dies should have a Neck sizing die that needs a bushing. The correct size will depend on your brass. You can size the whole case but the last step should be setting the neck with the proper bushing. If you do not have the neck die in you set then you might want to find one. For the first 2 reloads simply closing the neck to .336 makes good rounds for my rifle. After that they need to be full sized and annealed. I have not had to trim yet after as many as 5 reloads.



I was looking to get a Factory crimp die, better with the collet?

I would not crimp .300wm. or any rifle round beyond .223 for ar's. If you get the neck size right then you will have a good seating tension and should see low SD's and ES's. Depending on powder load of course. The collet die slips over the brass and rests on the belt. You then lower the die onto the collet and the sizing takes place from the bottom up. It prevents creating a bulge above the belt as the brass is pushed down. You may see cracks and case separations just above the belt if you use the regular dies. I have seen it with Hornady brass after one reload.



yeah, I’ll try 20-40 rounds of factory match ammo to sight it in and try my best at 100m (max of the local range), I’ll than try the regionnal 600m!

Looking to get a Sightron 10-50x60 for it!

That will be plenty of scope. I find that I use less than 25x most of the time. At 100 I like full mag but less is more from there on out for me. Mirage is hard on me and I find with my scope 15-20 is good.

I have had good luck with Nosler Brass and Norma. I would like to try Peterson if I can find it. I was lucky and found a magic load for my rifle. 190 SMK with nosler brass, fed 215 gmm primers and 81.0gr of h1000. It runs at 3100 Ft/sec and is perfect for my rifle. My AIAX seems to like higher pressure so I would be cautious and build up to the load that works for you.
 
Well I did try the Lee Classic Turret and it will not work with Redding Comp. Seating die. On the upstrock, when the case is exiting the die, it begin to turn and the bullet snag 3/4 in the die.
Look like the ram is not long enought for those case. It would work if I do 1 stage at a time but I prefer to go progressive.

Anyone tryed the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP ?
 
Well I did try the Lee Classic Turret and it will not work with Redding Comp. Seating die. On the upstrock, when the case is exiting the die, it begin to turn and the bullet snag 3/4 in the die.
Look like the ram is not long enought for those case. It would work if I do 1 stage at a time but I prefer to go progressive.

Anyone tryed the Hornady Lock-N-Load AP ?

So, let me get this straight. You want to make 300WM match ammo on a progressive press? Uh, ok then, have fun!
 
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