What Shotgun Loads For CAS?
- Thread starter Max Owner
- Start date
Don't waste your money on a 20 gauge, be progressive and buy a 12ga. I say this because most shooters use #8 shot. Anything up to #4 Lead shot is legal at most clubs. Depending where you shoot, expect steel reactive targets as part of the scenario. Shooters using a 20 ga can sometimes have a very difficult time taking them down. For 95% of the matches I shoot #8 shot is more than adequate. Just in case there always 10 rds of #6 shot and 10 rds of #4 Lead shot in my gun cart. Hope this helps.
Just a quick note, about purchasing a 20 gauge for the little lady. For all you menout there that think that a 20 is less recoil than a 12. You will find that most woman do better with a 12 using a lighter load verses using a 20.
This is advise from vicious's wife. Lilabell
This is advise from vicious's wife. Lilabell
I agree with VICIOUS!!! My 13 year old daughter has a lightweight .410 double that she cannot shoot because it kicks so hard! I bought her a Boito 20 ga coachgun for CAS when she was 11, shortened it and put a pachmyer pad on it. She complained that it too kicked, even with 7/8oz #8's, AND many of the targets wouldn't fall unless she hit them perfectly.
I bought her a 12 ga, cut the barrels to 24", and with a standard pad and 1 1/8 oz 8's, she is much happier. The targets go down on the first shot (assuming she hits them), and the recoil is less - actually it's more of a hard push rather than a sharp hit. Furthermore, the 24" barrels have a little more weight out front to assist with recoil and with breaking the gun. For smaller people, the coachguns are not easy to break.
Forget the 20 ga 20" gun. Buy a used Boito, IG, Stoeger, etc... for $2-250 and cut the barrels to 24". Don't forget to hone the chambers and forcing cone so that the spent hulls fall out. She'll love you for it.
JB
I bought her a 12 ga, cut the barrels to 24", and with a standard pad and 1 1/8 oz 8's, she is much happier. The targets go down on the first shot (assuming she hits them), and the recoil is less - actually it's more of a hard push rather than a sharp hit. Furthermore, the 24" barrels have a little more weight out front to assist with recoil and with breaking the gun. For smaller people, the coachguns are not easy to break.
Forget the 20 ga 20" gun. Buy a used Boito, IG, Stoeger, etc... for $2-250 and cut the barrels to 24". Don't forget to hone the chambers and forcing cone so that the spent hulls fall out. She'll love you for it.
JB
Another cowboy recommending the 12 ga here.
The inexpensive 12 ga. target loads are not shoulder beaters, but there is enough energy in them to knock down the steel, something I have seen folks using 20 ga have not been able to do, if the targets are set out a little further than usual.
The inexpensive 12 ga. target loads are not shoulder beaters, but there is enough energy in them to knock down the steel, something I have seen folks using 20 ga have not been able to do, if the targets are set out a little further than usual.
Max Owner
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
We're looking at Stoeger Coach guns from the Wholesale catalogue. The one my wife likes is the 20" nickel plated barrels. I like the nickel receiver with the 28" barrels.
You don't recommend the 20" barrels?
Does the nickel barrels come in a 24 or 28" ? The Stoeger website shows only 20"ers.......
Thanx for the replies.
You don't recommend the 20" barrels?
Does the nickel barrels come in a 24 or 28" ? The Stoeger website shows only 20"ers.......
Thanx for the replies.
If you are going to buy new, you are going to need to spend some money to make the guns work for you when you're on the clock. Typically new guns are stiff and slow. Used guns can use some work, but they are at least past the "stiff" point.
On the new gun, dry-fire it, then with one hand move the lever and open the gun. You probably can't do it with one hand, because everything is tight and stiff, you are cocking both barrels, the springs are new and strong, and if it is a coach gun there isn't any out front weight to assist you. A gunsmith will cost $100-150 to smooth out everything and lighten or install lighter springs.
With a 28/30" barrelled gun, a flick of the wrist and the gun should open, even when it is new. A good used gun will be Half the price of new, and should be useable without any serious expense. Lightening and polishing the workings are simply icing on the cake. Besides, with a good used gun, you can buy a long barrelled beast, try it, and shorten it to your liking. I still maintain that 24" is a nice balance between a coach gun and a long gun.
Just my 2 cents worth.
JB
Thunder Bay
On the new gun, dry-fire it, then with one hand move the lever and open the gun. You probably can't do it with one hand, because everything is tight and stiff, you are cocking both barrels, the springs are new and strong, and if it is a coach gun there isn't any out front weight to assist you. A gunsmith will cost $100-150 to smooth out everything and lighten or install lighter springs.
With a 28/30" barrelled gun, a flick of the wrist and the gun should open, even when it is new. A good used gun will be Half the price of new, and should be useable without any serious expense. Lightening and polishing the workings are simply icing on the cake. Besides, with a good used gun, you can buy a long barrelled beast, try it, and shorten it to your liking. I still maintain that 24" is a nice balance between a coach gun and a long gun.
Just my 2 cents worth.
JB
Thunder Bay
One more thought ...
The Stoegers are probably the best bang for the buck new. In used, remember that Boito, IGA, and Stoeger are all the same thing. A decent used 12 ga is $2-250 and there are lots of them around that can be bought from your fellow gunnutz at any time.
JB
The Stoegers are probably the best bang for the buck new. In used, remember that Boito, IGA, and Stoeger are all the same thing. A decent used 12 ga is $2-250 and there are lots of them around that can be bought from your fellow gunnutz at any time.
JB
HOWDY ; YES Flip s got it ! All 250 pounds of me can find a coach a little rough to operate . Chopped a savage 311 to 24 inchs ,the barrel weight will help keep the action open on reloads and soften the recoil and moves the noise and blast away from the shooters face. Lite loaded 12 gauge and reload information is avaiable . Lite 20 gauge is a B---- to find ,
There is a black powder model with 24 inch barrel from stoger ,but it is blued only and may or may not be imported by the distributor.
The 20 gauge is just a afterthought ifen you got money to blow. Yes I got one. After a long and short stoger double and three winchester 1897
There is a black powder model with 24 inch barrel from stoger ,but it is blued only and may or may not be imported by the distributor.
The 20 gauge is just a afterthought ifen you got money to blow. Yes I got one. After a long and short stoger double and three winchester 1897
Max Owner said:
Most of us use Open or Improved Cylinder/Cylinder Bore.
In a 12 ga, there is more than enough weight of lead pellets to ensure a steel target knockdown at most CAS ranges.
I must qualify this however, by saying Some Sneaky Pards are starting to set the knockdowns a little farther out, in which case something with a full choke handles that problem nicely.
HOWDY ; Yep a cylinder for most , A stoger with internal tubes is best ,with improved cylinder tubes . The most choke is a modfied for lite loads and distance . If all else fails I keep a 10 round pack of heavy lead full power loads just for them rusted knock downs.
A full choke tube is only used when shooting trap side matchs .
A full choke tube is only used when shooting trap side matchs .
On occasion you'll find a match where flying clay pidgeons are used as part of the scenario, with a short barrel I find I like the full choke. Screw in chokes are the answer, you have one for every possible occasion.
