What tech specs do you want in a moose/bear/deer rifle?

Skogkatt

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Hi everybody!

I am waiting for my PAL and I am looking for different rifles for hunting purposes primarily.

At the beginning I wanted a semi-auto rifle but then reading and looking at youtube, it seems like bolt action rifles are more accurate and less weight? What technical specifications do you guys want in a hunting rifle for a max of 2.000 CAD of money

I want a 30-06, weather resistant, accurate from 150 grains to 180.

I bought a book and I read things like fluted barrel, barre length and I am not sure how important those things are.

I read good comments on Tikka and Browning, any suggestion?

Thank you
 
Welcome to the outdoor, hunting and shooting community! Oh man to be in your shoes is exciting getting geared up, theres so many calibers and then those calibers are offered in so many makes/models/options/variations out on the market these days, it's hard to know wear to start, some things to consider are your hunting locations, some jurisdictions are regulated by caliber or shotgun/rifle seasons for deer, so know what your allowed to use in your areas, you can find that info in the provincial hunting summaries for the province your hunting,
Next as you've done, lots of research, reading, and figuring out what youd like in a rifle, visiting hunting/firearm stores and handling the makes/models you fancy will narrow down your list of what "fits" and ultimately what rifle you just plain like the most, (if you buy a rifle every single person tells you to get, rather than the one you really like and researched and have your heart set on, you'll likely not be as happy a few years from now) ie: everyone is different, and after gathering a lot of input and suggestions make sure you put your own interests first, as it's a big purchase. Something to consider is optic chioce as well, (if youd like to go scope route vs open sights), just as much research and time can go into finding the scope that compliments your new rifle, and generally speaking a scope of equal quality to the rifle is generally the same price piont as the rifle, ie: 1,000 dollar tikka, with a 750 to 900 leup/vortex/bushnell etc plus bases, rings, extra magazine, sling, scope covers, ammo, case, lock, and related cleaning equiptment, it's easy to bust a budget, so if you have one for 2,000 that's awesome, and stick to it, really endless options in that price range,
When I was 14 and bought my first rifle, I was just over 100 pounds soaking wet, I wanted a "classy" bolt action with a detachable magazine for quick loading, and I wanted it to hunt for everything from fox to moose, after research and reading and talking with my dad, and many of his friends who were avid reloaders and genuine gun nuts, I had my heart set on the 260 Remington cartridge chambered in a 700 mountain rifle, lightweight, detachable mag, a caliber that was really versatile with hand loads, and somewhat classy with a pretty walnut stock, it fit all my check boxes, I shopped around all over to find the right place to deal with on the phone, (didnt have internet then) and ofcourse Ellwood Epps my home store who I knew the guys at were happy to sell me my first rifle with rings and bases included, it pays to shop around and ask, moral of my story is know what YOU want, listen to others reviews, and determine what's best for YOURSELF. it's easy to be talked into things, and I've seen it happen to my friends on occasion, that's the best advice I can give you,
I was lucky to be handed down many rifles and shotguns from uncles and grandparents, as such I over look a very important aspect however, and that is spending time out hunting before you make a huge purchase, what may work is buying a budget friendly rifle, spend a season hunting and determine what exactly youd like to spend your money on for long term, by this I mean you can pick up a nicely used 303 sportorized Enfield for under 200 bucks, spend a season hunting with it, get to appreciate wants and needs, and then pull the trigger on a 2000 dollar set up,
My humble 2 cents,
Any questions just ask! Lots of great knowledge, experience and people here on CGN to help you with anything to do with our hobbies!
 
The Tikka t3x stainless/ synthetic, Winchester m70 extreme weather, or Ruger m77 Hawkeye all weather would be great candidates for given budget and you'd be left with funds to put a decent scope on. 30-06 is a great choice and in my opinion cant go wrong with it. Lots of factory ammo from 125gr-220gr with the 165gr-180gr being great for all around hunting and flat shooting. I would shoulder a few rifles to see what fits you best.
 
Opinions are like arseholes, everyone's got one....

Okay! Here's mine! :) There is a Browning Stainless Stalker X-Bolt with a Leupold VX-Freedom mounted, in 30-06, for $1000 in the EE right now!!. It hasn't sold for a couple weeks (which is nuts) If I had the coin I'd snag it.

Nicer rifle than anyone needs, and it will kill whatever you shoot with it. If I were you, I'd message him (if you're not on the EE yet, I'd get ahold of him for you) and buy his rifle when the PAL shows up. Then I'd wisely use that left over G-Note and buy some decent binoculars (athlon is probably the best bang for the buck, maybe some Vortex), so now ya got about $600 left. Enough for a pack (don't overlook a good hunting fanny pack), a nice hunting knife (grohmann are Canadian and excellent), maybe some camo pants and jacket, and I'd also snag a copy of Steven Rinella's book The Conplete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game. That book is an invaluable resource.

Hope you take this advice! If I could do it all over again, these are the steps I'd take.

*Edit!* How could I forget boots!! Boots will cost you between $300-$400 bucks for a good pair. And your feet are the most important thing. Not any other piece of kit is more important than boots.

So in retrospect:

That X-bolt buddy is essentially giving away in the EE (it's a $1400 plus tax rifle... without the Leupold)

Binoculars

Boots.

You should enough money left over for a good hunting knife, or some budget camo from Walmart.
 
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30-06, 165 gr bullet. Tikka t3x w/ any decent 3-9 power scope. (...or fixed 6 power!) Assuming you don't handload, buy a few different types of factory ammo and try them all to see which shoots best from the rifle.
 
Trying to pick a rifle for someone else is like trying to pick a girlfriend for somebody else.

However, here's what I've settled on: Husqvarna built on an FN 98 Mauser action. Smooth & reliable. Cal. 9.3x62, 23 5/8" barrel. Leupold 1.5-5x20 with QD mounts. I only shoot two bullet weights, 250 and 285 gr. If pressed to decide, I'd go with 285's for everything. Not a lightweight, comes in at 9 lbs loaded with scope. Walnut stock, not synthetic.

If I didn't have that I would go with either a Mauser or M70, in anything between 7x57 and .30-06.
 
Hi everybody!

I am waiting for my PAL and I am looking for different rifles for hunting purposes primarily.

At the beginning I wanted a semi-auto rifle but then reading and looking at youtube, it seems like bolt action rifles are more accurate and less weight? What technical specifications do you guys want in a hunting rifle for a max of 2.000 CAD of money

I want a 30-06, weather resistant, accurate from 150 grains to 180.

I bought a book and I read things like fluted barrel, barre length and I am not sure how important those things are.

I read good comments on Tikka and Browning, any suggestion?

Thank you

Browning A-bolt II is Stainless Stalker 300 win mag and 180 grn will be all that you will ever need.
Now, what you will want after that is entirely up to you and your pocket book/wallet.
Rob
 
When I started buying rifles quite a few years ago I bought a Ruger synthetic stainless in 30 06 to replace my BSA 30 06 that I had passed on to my Son, I could have stopped there and never "needed" another rifle, I did not stop and very quickly found that my 30 06 was surrounded by other rifles bigger and smaller and became a safe queen. So my opinion is a 30 06 is an excellent choice for a one rifle shooter but maybe not needed if you are going to own numerous rifles. Personally I think a 300 win mag has a lot of recoil for a new hunter. A 22" or 24"barrel is fine for a 30 06 for hunting, I have a few fluted barrel rifles maybe they save weight maybe they speed cooling or they just look cool, they certainly are not required. Tikka and Browning make good rifles and you can't go wrong with either. I would shoulder as many as you can shooting is even better, but nobody here can really tell you a specific rifle that will feel perfect to you.
 
Opinions are like armpits - everyone has them, and only mine don't stink.

Congratulations on joining the sport! You will get tons of advice because you asked. But learn what you like and decide won't isn't working. Be prepared to change a couple of times before you settle down.

FWIW, I know two hunters who bought identical .300 Win Mag Savage synthetic stock, detachable magazine, scope-equipped 'package guns'. They worked up loads they both liked. One got into the Saskatchewan big game book with a monster mulie buck; the other dropped a mulie that was just outside the cut off score. You don't need fancy equipment or high specification anything to be a successful hunter. I own one of those Savages now after selling my own .300 Win Mag Centurion synthetic stock P'17 conversion. I like plastic stocks because they won't break, and they clean up with Windex and a toothbrush.
 
Hi everybody!

I am waiting for my PAL and I am looking for different rifles for hunting purposes primarily.

At the beginning I wanted a semi-auto rifle but then reading and looking at youtube, it seems like bolt action rifles are more accurate and less weight? What technical specifications do you guys want in a hunting rifle for a max of 2.000 CAD of money

I want a 30-06, weather resistant, accurate from 150 grains to 180.

I bought a book and I read things like fluted barrel, barre length and I am not sure how important those things are.

I read good comments on Tikka and Browning, any suggestion?

Thank you

Semis are cool and work well but in the weather I hunt in I prefer something more corrosion resistant with lighter maintenance. A fully stainless/synthetic BAR could grab my interest but seeing that’s unobtainium...I use a bolt gun.

My current go to is a Weatherby Vanguard S2 Stainless in 30/06 with the detachable magazine kit on it, a generic nylon/rubber carry strap with stainless loops. Optics are Talley lightweight rings/bases with a Leupold VX3i 3.5-10x40 with their alumina caps.
I’ve had three seasons with it and it has been flawless. Nothing has acted up, needed upgrading, extra work, or anything else; every year I check zero (it has yet to move) and go hunting.
Being stainless/synthetic it take minimal attention when hunting and nothing more than a good cleaning when I get home.
It’s almost boring it’s so reliable...and fully kitted in your budget of 2k.
With Remington Core Lock 150’s it puts 3 under an inch, no reason to go for a larger group as one usually does the job.
Haven’t looked into 180’s yet.
Flutes are eye candy but not needed, a 24” barrel is nice, 22” works fine too, remember the lighter you go the more it kicks, go to heavy and you’ll leave it at home. As a hunting gun it will see real usage so if the thought of marking up a prom queen turns you off then you might want to purchase something more utilitarian.

My back up gun is a T3 stainless in 6.5x55 which is also a nice gun but I prefer my Weatherby (or Howa if you prefer) for no quantifiable reason. Go figure...
JMO, YMMV.
 
Your info doesn't say where you are located. That will have a huge impact on what you will want in a rifle. For example, if you're going to be hunting open fields or cuts, and not doing a lot of walking, weight is not only not an issue, but can make the rifle easier to steady. Likewise, a longer barrel can give you that bit of extra velocity (that you don't really need anyways, but some guys strive for). The type of magazine doesn't really matter, either. Optics are a must, with fairly high magnification at the upper end. Bolt action is a natural fit here.

If you will be hunting at typically moderate ranges, but doing a fair bit of walking, you'll definitely want a lighter gun, maybe a low to mid magnification scope, and a detachable magazine are pretty good. Bolt guns are again a natural, but pump or semi are also good.

If you are going to be hunting heavy timber, you'll almost definitely want something very short, light, handy and fast shooting. Optics are not a necessity, but a red dot (quality, of course) can be a big asset. I also like a Fire Sight or some other brand of fiber optic sight. The Tikka Battue has some of the nicest sights I've seen. Some guys swear by detachable mags. If you opt for one, make sure you have a spare. Nothing worse than being wayyy back in the boonies and discovering you lost your magazine. Pump and semi are very nice here, but a light bolt rifle like the Battue is an excellent choice. Now, if this is the type of hunting you will be doing, if I were you (and for what it's worth), I'd seriously reconsider the caliber. IMHO, you'd be much better served by a short action caliber.

Now, this is my personal opinion, based on just under 50 years of big game hunting. At least half the guys here will say my choices are totally wrong, and guess what? They are right. Those are my personal preferences. Whatever you opt for, as much as possible, try several rifles out to find one that fits you perfectly. As soon as you shoulder, it should be pretty much right on target. Do this wearing the same type of clothing you would typically wear when hunting. Your coat(s) can shorten your pull by as much as an inch. Whatever optics you buy, buy the best you can afford. And practice, practice, practice. If possible, get a trusted and respected shooter to watch you shoot, and to give you pointers. Finally, when it comes to practice, it's advisable to begin shooting from a bench to practice trigger control, check for flinch,etc., but make sure to get plenty of practice in shooting from hunting stances. When I moved to Ottawa, I did a lot of benchrest shooting, but didn't hunt for several years. I was pretty darned good off the bench, but when I started hunting again, I was missing what would have been easy shots when I was hunting more. I had forgotten how to shoot in hunting situations. Now, I still try to do a lot of benchrest, but always try to get in some practice offhand, kneeling, sitting, resting against a post, etc.
 
For me, the next gun I buy will be:

Left hand bolt action
Box mag
.308
16-18” stainless barrel
Laminate stock
Good iron sight but with a rail
6.5-7.5 lbs
Some aftermarket support

Ruger gunsite scout checks all those boxes and after handling a rh model I like the way it fits and handles.
 
Specs for a new rifle (or firearm) for a new hunter for deer, moose and bears should include the following:
1) Know your local regulations as to what is legal to use in your jurisdiction i.e. firearm type, caliber, bullet weight and/or energy requirements
2) Know your targeted species - which you have already identified
3) Know what the recommended energy levels are for the targeted species - study the ballistics data for your potential caliber and cartridge choices to determine this - in your case 1000 ft-lbs for deer and bear, 1500 ft-lbs for moose (at the animal) is the old rule of thumb used by guides, professional hunters and gun writers - the higher the BC (ballistic coefficient) the better the bullets ability to retain its velocity over distance and the flatter it will shoot and more retained energy at the target - the higher the SD (sectional density) of the bullet, the better the penetration abilities of the bullet on big game - rule of thumb is an SD of 0.250
4) Know the environment types and typical distances you'll be hunting in and shooting to assist in choosing your caliber and cartridge for velocity and trajectories - i.e. thick bush where 100 yards is a long shot, shooting distances can extend to 400 yards or beyond or open fields/prairie or mountains where
5) Know the method you will be using to do most of your hunting - i.e. spot and stalk or still hunting where you do more hiking, walking, and glassing than you do shooting will determine how light/heavy a rifle you will want to carry vs atv/horseback hunting where your firearm is carried in a scabbard to/from hunting areas/locations and weight is not as big of a factor, or treestand/groundblind hunting where weight is not usually a factor
6) Determine the desired firearm type and action type for your particular needs and desires- bolt actions are strong, reliable and considered more accurate, semi-autos are quicker with followup shots and reduce felt recoil as they are typically heavier and the energy used to cycle the action is not put to your shoulder and produces slightly less muzzle jump, lever actions are quick cycling, light, handy and have nicer carrying characteristics than other rifle types, and single shots are typically lighter as there is less metal in the action and length in the overall firearm due to the action design, and can be slower to reload for follow up shots but have a class of their own and the old principle of making your first shot count tends to promote better shooting practices- then there are black powder firearms such as muzzle loaders, flintlocks, etc.
7) Determine whether you want open sights, a scoped rifle or a combination of both, on your rifle for the hunting and shooting you will be doing - open sights are good to learn to use and are quick and easy for shorter range shots for most, but are capable for those practiced with them to longer ranges as well, and are a great backup option should a scope fail - your personal eyesight capability may be the determining factor - scopes can make it easier to place a bullet more accurately at longer distances (the old aim small, miss small principle)
At the end of the day, there is no wrong answer. Shoulder as many different makes and models of rifles in the potential caliber and cartridges that you are interested in, and even better yet, if you can shoot some of those at your local range (friends, acquaintances or ranges' rifles, ask your local gunstore if you can try used firearms if you buy the ammo and leave a deposit) it will give you a better idea of what you like and what you are capable of handling for recoil
Hope this will help in choosing your new rifle! It is a great part of the adventure!

As stated above, some other very important hunting equipment items will be the following:
1) Quality, well fitting boots
2) Quality binoculars
3) Quality knives for caring for your game once harvested
4) Quality knife sharpener
5) Quality pack for getting your harvest out of the field

Your potential choice of the 30-06 will do you fine for your intended species and you cannot go wrong with a good 180 grain bullet for all of them. The typical barrel length for a 30-06 will be 22-24". You may get a little more velocity with the longer barrel but on average you will only realize about 25 fps per inch, and no animal will know the difference between being shot with a bullet moving 50 fps more or less, or the 100 or so ft-lbs of energy. The shorter barrel may be handier in the thick stuff. More importantly is how the rifle balances when you shoulder and shoot it.
Other great choices can be found from the 6.5x55 mentioned above up to the 35 Whelen.
Find one load and use it for everything and you will not have to worry about different points of impact by changing bullet weights and having to resight your rifle every time you change loads.
 
Welcome to the outdoor, hunting and shooting community! Oh man to be in your shoes is exciting getting geared up, theres so many calibers and then those calibers are offered in so many makes/models/options/variations out on the market these days, it's hard to know wear to start, some things to consider are your hunting locations, some jurisdictions are regulated by caliber or shotgun/rifle seasons for deer, so know what your allowed to use in your areas, you can find that info in the provincial hunting summaries for the province your hunting,
Next as you've done, lots of research, reading, and figuring out what youd like in a rifle, visiting hunting/firearm stores and handling the makes/models you fancy will narrow down your list of what "fits" and ultimately what rifle you just plain like the most, (if you buy a rifle every single person tells you to get, rather than the one you really like and researched and have your heart set on, you'll likely not be as happy a few years from now) ie: everyone is different, and after gathering a lot of input and suggestions make sure you put your own interests first, as it's a big purchase. Something to consider is optic chioce as well, (if youd like to go scope route vs open sights), just as much research and time can go into finding the scope that compliments your new rifle, and generally speaking a scope of equal quality to the rifle is generally the same price piont as the rifle, ie: 1,000 dollar tikka, with a 750 to 900 leup/vortex/bushnell etc plus bases, rings, extra magazine, sling, scope covers, ammo, case, lock, and related cleaning equiptment, it's easy to bust a budget, so if you have one for 2,000 that's awesome, and stick to it, really endless options in that price range,
When I was 14 and bought my first rifle, I was just over 100 pounds soaking wet, I wanted a "classy" bolt action with a detachable magazine for quick loading, and I wanted it to hunt for everything from fox to moose, after research and reading and talking with my dad, and many of his friends who were avid reloaders and genuine gun nuts, I had my heart set on the 260 Remington cartridge chambered in a 700 mountain rifle, lightweight, detachable mag, a caliber that was really versatile with hand loads, and somewhat classy with a pretty walnut stock, it fit all my check boxes, I shopped around all over to find the right place to deal with on the phone, (didnt have internet then) and ofcourse Ellwood Epps my home store who I knew the guys at were happy to sell me my first rifle with rings and bases included, it pays to shop around and ask, moral of my story is know what YOU want, listen to others reviews, and determine what's best for YOURSELF. it's easy to be talked into things, and I've seen it happen to my friends on occasion, that's the best advice I can give you,
I was lucky to be handed down many rifles and shotguns from uncles and grandparents, as such I over look a very important aspect however, and that is spending time out hunting before you make a huge purchase, what may work is buying a budget friendly rifle, spend a season hunting and determine what exactly youd like to spend your money on for long term, by this I mean you can pick up a nicely used 303 sportorized Enfield for under 200 bucks, spend a season hunting with it, get to appreciate wants and needs, and then pull the trigger on a 2000 dollar set up,
My humble 2 cents,
Any questions just ask! Lots of great knowledge, experience and people here on CGN to help you with anything to do with our hobbies!

First of all, thank you for your answer I found your comment really informative. I live in BC, and I am studing the core right now, planning to take the exam soon so I will understand better what is allowed or not in the area.

It is really exciting! that's for sure! I cannot stop reading comments and gathering information about what will fit me the best. I am planning to go to different shops and see which one it's gonna be the one I will end buying stuff from, I will try to handle the ones I like if that is possible.


The black friday is coming and I hope I can find some knives, binoculars, sling, scope covers, ammo, case, lock, and related cleaning equiptment as you mentioned.
 
The Tikka t3x stainless/ synthetic, Winchester m70 extreme weather, or Ruger m77 Hawkeye all weather would be great candidates for given budget and you'd be left with funds to put a decent scope on. 30-06 is a great choice and in my opinion cant go wrong with it. Lots of factory ammo from 125gr-220gr with the 165gr-180gr being great for all around hunting and flat shooting. I would shoulder a few rifles to see what fits you best.


Tikka t3x and Browining hell's canyon speed in 30-06 are the ones I am looking for right now in more details but I am also keeping an eye on the other models people are recommending me. (Info gathering time right now).

I also think 30-06 will be a good choice for my first rifle, so thanks!
 
Opinions are like arseholes, everyone's got one....

Okay! Here's mine! :) There is a Browning Stainless Stalker X-Bolt with a Leupold VX-Freedom mounted, in 30-06, for $1000 in the EE right now!!. It hasn't sold for a couple weeks (which is nuts) If I had the coin I'd snag it.

Nicer rifle than anyone needs, and it will kill whatever you shoot with it. If I were you, I'd message him (if you're not on the EE yet, I'd get ahold of him for you) and buy his rifle when the PAL shows up. Then I'd wisely use that left over G-Note and buy some decent binoculars (athlon is probably the best bang for the buck, maybe some Vortex), so now ya got about $600 left. Enough for a pack (don't overlook a good hunting fanny pack), a nice hunting knife (grohmann are Canadian and excellent), maybe some camo pants and jacket, and I'd also snag a copy of Steven Rinella's book The Conplete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game. That book is an invaluable resource.

Hope you take this advice! If I could do it all over again, these are the steps I'd take.

*Edit!* How could I forget boots!! Boots will cost you between $300-$400 bucks for a good pair. And your feet are the most important thing. Not any other piece of kit is more important than boots.

So in retrospect:

That X-bolt buddy is essentially giving away in the EE (it's a $1400 plus tax rifle... without the Leupold)

Binoculars

Boots.

You should enough money left over for a good hunting knife, or some budget camo from Walmart.


I bought 2 books the last weekend and 1 is the The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game!!!!!! I am so glad that you are recommending me that book because I thought it could be a good resource when I bought it!!! yeah! the other book is the "Shooters Bible.." I found it really helpful because I can take a look to the models you guys recommend me in a few seconds with specs on it.

Is there any Binocular exact model that you think will be a must? also do you think a rangefinder will be useful? if so, do I need the binoculars if I buy the rangefinder?

Thanks!
 
I am not sure if I will buy more rifles (probably yes) but I would like to start with something I can use for almost everything ad you guys said. 30-06 + Tikka and Browning are the ones I am looking right now.
I will buy a shotgun too but that is going to be after deciding the rifle.

Thank you!
 
Opinions are like armpits - everyone has them, and only mine don't stink.

Congratulations on joining the sport! You will get tons of advice because you asked. But learn what you like and decide won't isn't working. Be prepared to change a couple of times before you settle down.

FWIW, I know two hunters who bought identical .300 Win Mag Savage synthetic stock, detachable magazine, scope-equipped 'package guns'. They worked up loads they both liked. One got into the Saskatchewan big game book with a monster mulie buck; the other dropped a mulie that was just outside the cut off score. You don't need fancy equipment or high specification anything to be a successful hunter. I own one of those Savages now after selling my own .300 Win Mag Centurion synthetic stock P'17 conversion. I like plastic stocks because they won't break, and they clean up with Windex and a toothbrush.

Everybody says that .300 is a little too much for someone like me with no recoil experience... I will keep in mind the recommendation about the plastic stock I will dig more about that. Thanks!
 
Quote: "Is there any Binocular exact model that you think will be a must? also do you think a rangefinder will be useful? if so, do I need the binoculars if I buy the rangefinder?"

Buy the best quality binoculars you can afford! The old Zeiss 10x40's, now discontinued, were the glass by which all others are judged.
After your boots, you will use these the most during your hunting career, not to mention sightseeing, travelling and/or birdwatching activities where you just want to see things better.
Never use your rifle scope to identify objects, as this is just a poor and unsafe practice! You could find yourself pointing your rifle at another person when trying to identify a moving object while out hunting. Being "scoped" is a very uncomfortable experience!
Swarovski, Zeiss and Leica are top of the line. These brands have the highest levels of light transmission of about 95%. Minox makes very good binos at good prices. If going with Bushnell, their Elite series were very good for less money too.
Depending on where you'll be hunting, a good 8 or 10 power binocular will be your best option.
Your light gathering ability, referred to as exit pupil is determined by dividing the objective lense size by the power rating. I.e. 40mm / 10 = 4mm, or 40mm / 8 = 5mm.
The human eye can only dilate to a maximum of 7mm when we are in our 20's and is all the light that the eye can take in, so at this age a bino such as 50mm / 7 = 7.14mm is best for low light conditions. As we get older, our pupils cannot dilate as wide, to about 4-5mm by the time we are in our 50's, so the 4 or 5mm exit pupil of the binos will be all your eyes can use to gather the light and see well under low light conditions. (this works the same for your riflescope)

Rangefinders do not work well for most glassing work as they are typically monocular and lower power range optics and poor light gathering abilities. You can live without a rangefinder, but not good binoculars.

Don't overlook buying a good 22 LR rifle as well. This will be the least expensive rifle to own and shoot, building good firearm handling practices and shooting form and trigger control, for your rifle and shotgun for hunting. Hunting small game such as squirrels and rabbits is a lot of fun and good practice to acquire skills for hunting big game. Tasty too!
 
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