What tech specs do you want in a moose/bear/deer rifle?

[\QUOTE]First of all, thank you for your answer I found your comment really informative. I live in BC, and I am studing the core right now, planning to take the exam soon so I will understand better what is allowed or not in the area.[/QUOTE]

Awesome, always important to know the local regulations, a 30/06 would be legal in BC for your game anyways, here in Ontario we have some restrictions,

[\QUOTE] It is really exciting! that's for sure! I cannot stop reading comments and gathering information about what will fit me the best. I am planning to go to different shops and see which one it's gonna be the one I will end buying stuff from, I will try to handle the ones I like if that is possible.
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haha, yeah have fun with it, and patience has helped myself from impulse buying a many times looking at new gear, black Friday deals are coming up, it's the prime time to buy quality stuff for great discounts, and if it doesnt work fir what your looking for theres always good deals here on the EE aswell that come up,

I've had and Recomended Tikka T3's, 3 of my friends are shooting T3x's now that they came out, they couldn't be happier, they love thier durability, accuracy, price is good, and great quality, Tikka offers some really nice variations too like the hunter fluted Stainless, I'd love one,
the various modern day brownings I've had I'm not a fan of myself, for various reasons pending the different models, but that's all just personal preferance on my part,
 
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Light 6lb or less, smooth action, detachable magazine, single set trigger, 16-18" barrel

My ideal caliber is 308win for 400yd and less
 
Us younger guys are preferential to stainless barrels and actions. I won't try and steer you one way or another on brands but I prefer my Xbolt for hunting as it handles better and my Tikka for shooting as its smoother. I will recommend spending some coin on a good scope and binos as you're in BC (and yes, I am envious). Leupold is a crowd favourite here as their scopes are built to last (5000 impacts of 3x 308 recoil I believe) check the vx3i line and the 2.5-8 or 3.5-10 in particular. The lower magnification allows for more light and better image. Get something with a duplex type reticle rather than a bdc and zero for 6" MPBR-3" up and down off a dead hold. It definitely removes complications for shots out to 250m or so, and please don't skimp on mounts. Talleys are a good choice for both. Definitely shoulder some rifles and get your eyes through some optics so see what works for you and don't be afraid of buying a second hand rifle. I've also learned that better clothes keep you out longer and thats what we strive for. Enjoy the Journey!
 
wasrupzuk said:
Semis are cool and work well but in the weather I hunt in I prefer something more corrosion resistant with lighter maintenance. A fully stainless/synthetic BAR could grab my interest but seeing that’s unobtainium...I use a bolt gun.

My current go to is a Weatherby Vanguard S2 Stainless in 30/06 with the detachable magazine kit on it, a generic nylon/rubber carry strap with stainless loops. Optics are Talley lightweight rings/bases with a Leupold VX3i 3.5-10x40 with their alumina caps.
I’ve had three seasons with it and it has been flawless. Nothing has acted up, needed upgrading, extra work, or anything else; every year I check zero (it has yet to move) and go hunting.
Being stainless/synthetic it take minimal attention when hunting and nothing more than a good cleaning when I get home.
It’s almost boring it’s so reliable...and fully kitted in your budget of 2k.
With Remington Core Lock 150’s it puts 3 under an inch, no reason to go for a larger group as one usually does the job.
Haven’t looked into 180’s yet.
Flutes are eye candy but not needed, a 24” barrel is nice, 22” works fine too, remember the lighter you go the more it kicks, go to heavy and you’ll leave it at home. As a hunting gun it will see real usage so if the thought of marking up a prom queen turns you off then you might want to purchase something more utilitarian.

My back up gun is a T3 stainless in 6.5x55 which is also a nice gun but I prefer my Weatherby (or Howa if you prefer) for no quantifiable reason. Go figure...
JMO, YMMV.
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I will check that Weatherby model, at this point I am almost 90% sure I will go for a bolt action, thanks for sharing your setup.
 
Papaclaude said:
Your info doesn't say where you are located. That will have a huge impact on what you will want in a rifle. For example, if you're going to be hunting open fields or cuts, and not doing a lot of walking, weight is not only not an issue, but can make the rifle easier to steady. Likewise, a longer barrel can give you that bit of extra velocity (that you don't really need anyways, but some guys strive for). The type of magazine doesn't really matter, either. Optics are a must, with fairly high magnification at the upper end. Bolt action is a natural fit here.

If you will be hunting at typically moderate ranges, but doing a fair bit of walking, you'll definitely want a lighter gun, maybe a low to mid magnification scope, and a detachable magazine are pretty good. Bolt guns are again a natural, but pump or semi are also good.

If you are going to be hunting heavy timber, you'll almost definitely want something very short, light, handy and fast shooting. Optics are not a necessity, but a red dot (quality, of course) can be a big asset. I also like a Fire Sight or some other brand of fiber optic sight. The Tikka Battue has some of the nicest sights I've seen. Some guys swear by detachable mags. If you opt for one, make sure you have a spare. Nothing worse than being wayyy back in the boonies and discovering you lost your magazine. Pump and semi are very nice here, but a light bolt rifle like the Battue is an excellent choice. Now, if this is the type of hunting you will be doing, if I were you (and for what it's worth), I'd seriously reconsider the caliber. IMHO, you'd be much better served by a short action caliber.

Now, this is my personal opinion, based on just under 50 years of big game hunting. At least half the guys here will say my choices are totally wrong, and guess what? They are right. Those are my personal preferences. Whatever you opt for, as much as possible, try several rifles out to find one that fits you perfectly. As soon as you shoulder, it should be pretty much right on target. Do this wearing the same type of clothing you would typically wear when hunting. Your coat(s) can shorten your pull by as much as an inch. Whatever optics you buy, buy the best you can afford. And practice, practice, practice. If possible, get a trusted and respected shooter to watch you shoot, and to give you pointers. Finally, when it comes to practice, it's advisable to begin shooting from a bench to practice trigger control, check for flinch,etc., but make sure to get plenty of practice in shooting from hunting stances. When I moved to Ottawa, I did a lot of benchrest shooting, but didn't hunt for several years. I was pretty darned good off the bench, but when I started hunting again, I was missing what would have been easy shots when I was hunting more. I had forgotten how to shoot in hunting situations. Now, I still try to do a lot of benchrest, but always try to get in some practice offhand, kneeling, sitting, resting against a post, etc.
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I live in BC.

I will be hiking a lot (I will explore a lot) so I think I will try something around 7-8lb max with a really nice scope (I will invest more money on the scope) and I will try to buy good clothes as well.
 
BlackRam said:
Specs for a new rifle (or firearm) for a new hunter for deer, moose and bears should include the following:
1) Know your local regulations as to what is legal to use in your jurisdiction i.e. firearm type, caliber, bullet weight and/or energy requirements
2) Know your targeted species - which you have already identified
3) Know what the recommended energy levels are for the targeted species - study the ballistics data for your potential caliber and cartridge choices to determine this - in your case 1000 ft-lbs for deer and bear, 1500 ft-lbs for moose (at the animal) is the old rule of thumb used by guides, professional hunters and gun writers - the higher the BC (ballistic coefficient) the better the bullets ability to retain its velocity over distance and the flatter it will shoot and more retained energy at the target - the higher the SD (sectional density) of the bullet, the better the penetration abilities of the bullet on big game - rule of thumb is an SD of 0.250
4) Know the environment types and typical distances you'll be hunting in and shooting to assist in choosing your caliber and cartridge for velocity and trajectories - i.e. thick bush where 100 yards is a long shot, shooting distances can extend to 400 yards or beyond or open fields/prairie or mountains where
5) Know the method you will be using to do most of your hunting - i.e. spot and stalk or still hunting where you do more hiking, walking, and glassing than you do shooting will determine how light/heavy a rifle you will want to carry vs atv/horseback hunting where your firearm is carried in a scabbard to/from hunting areas/locations and weight is not as big of a factor, or treestand/groundblind hunting where weight is not usually a factor
6) Determine the desired firearm type and action type for your particular needs and desires- bolt actions are strong, reliable and considered more accurate, semi-autos are quicker with followup shots and reduce felt recoil as they are typically heavier and the energy used to cycle the action is not put to your shoulder and produces slightly less muzzle jump, lever actions are quick cycling, light, handy and have nicer carrying characteristics than other rifle types, and single shots are typically lighter as there is less metal in the action and length in the overall firearm due to the action design, and can be slower to reload for follow up shots but have a class of their own and the old principle of making your first shot count tends to promote better shooting practices- then there are black powder firearms such as muzzle loaders, flintlocks, etc.
7) Determine whether you want open sights, a scoped rifle or a combination of both, on your rifle for the hunting and shooting you will be doing - open sights are good to learn to use and are quick and easy for shorter range shots for most, but are capable for those practiced with them to longer ranges as well, and are a great backup option should a scope fail - your personal eyesight capability may be the determining factor - scopes can make it easier to place a bullet more accurately at longer distances (the old aim small, miss small principle)
At the end of the day, there is no wrong answer. Shoulder as many different makes and models of rifles in the potential caliber and cartridges that you are interested in, and even better yet, if you can shoot some of those at your local range (friends, acquaintances or ranges' rifles, ask your local gunstore if you can try used firearms if you buy the ammo and leave a deposit) it will give you a better idea of what you like and what you are capable of handling for recoil
Hope this will help in choosing your new rifle! It is a great part of the adventure!

As stated above, some other very important hunting equipment items will be the following:
1) Quality, well fitting boots
2) Quality binoculars
3) Quality knives for caring for your game once harvested
4) Quality knife sharpener
5) Quality pack for getting your harvest out of the field

Your potential choice of the 30-06 will do you fine for your intended species and you cannot go wrong with a good 180 grain bullet for all of them. The typical barrel length for a 30-06 will be 22-24". You may get a little more velocity with the longer barrel but on average you will only realize about 25 fps per inch, and no animal will know the difference between being shot with a bullet moving 50 fps more or less, or the 100 or so ft-lbs of energy. The shorter barrel may be handier in the thick stuff. More importantly is how the rifle balances when you shoulder and shoot it.
Other great choices can be found from the 6.5x55 mentioned above up to the 35 Whelen.
Find one load and use it for everything and you will not have to worry about different points of impact by changing bullet weights and having to resight your rifle every time you change loads.
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Thank you very much! All that information is helpful. I will look for a 22" 24" barrel.
 
Fisherguy55 said:
Us younger guys are preferential to stainless barrels and actions. I won't try and steer you one way or another on brands but I prefer my Xbolt for hunting as it handles better and my Tikka for shooting as its smoother. I will recommend spending some coin on a good scope and binos as you're in BC (and yes, I am envious). Leupold is a crowd favourite here as their scopes are built to last (5000 impacts of 3x 308 recoil I believe) check the vx3i line and the 2.5-8 or 3.5-10 in particular. The lower magnification allows for more light and better image. Get something with a duplex type reticle rather than a bdc and zero for 6" MPBR-3" up and down off a dead hold. It definitely removes complications for shots out to 250m or so, and please don't skimp on mounts. Talleys are a good choice for both. Definitely shoulder some rifles and get your eyes through some optics so see what works for you and don't be afraid of buying a second hand rifle. I've also learned that better clothes keep you out longer and thats what we strive for. Enjoy the Journey!
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Oh wow I will need to learn more about " those duplex type reticle rather than a bdc and zero for 6" MPBR-3"

I was not sure about short-mid or mid-long scope range but I think as I am a begginer short-mid scope should be fine?

Thanks!
 
Skogkatt said:
I live in BC.

I will be hiking a lot (I will explore a lot) so I think I will try something around 7-8lb max with a really nice scope (I will invest more money on the scope) and I will try to buy good clothes as well.
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Well, you've been getting very solid advice from several guys here, and from what you've written, you're on the right track. Whatever you end up buying - make sure it fits you. A great gun in my hands may be just so-so in yours, and vice-versa. Whatever you end up getting - practice, practice, practice. And you're right - good clothes are essential. The best gun in the world will shoot like crap if you're shivering.
 
For optics Leupold has great warranty and the glass is very good quality. It's not like Vortex that has a good warranty; but you always need to use it. I picked up some BX 3 bino's last year and under normal light they were comparable with the Swaro's. Yes we tested them side by side in Nunavut. Don't get me wrong in low light I'm sure there is a difference, just not worth $2-3k in my view.

Welcome to this great sport and I wish you the best of luck. If you as able to shoot any of the rifles before you buy it would give a good idea of how they fit, but not always an option. I have bought and sold a large number of guns, and currently down to 4 hunting rifles, after learning fit and performance I'm looking for.
 
Assuming you are not a handloader, and intend to shoot game from 0-400 yards, you can accomplish everything you want to do with a .308 or any other common cartridge. With factory ammunition, there is no reason to choose a 30-06 over a 308, although the 30-06 isn't a bad choice, of course.

For a factory rifle, I can't recommend the Winchester Extreme enough, especially as I prefer CRF in a hunting rifle. But really most rifles will work fine. While there are plenty of serviceable budget rifles, if you only plan on getting one, you may as well get one that is done well from the start.
 
Skogkatt said:
Oh wow I will need to learn more about " those duplex type reticle rather than a bdc and zero for 6" MPBR-3"

I was not sure about short-mid or mid-long scope range but I think as I am a begginer short-mid scope should be fine?

Thanks!
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Its much simpler than you think. Ive ran some numbers for a 180gr GMX 30-06 from hornady, goes about $46 a box. Sight in 2.75" high at 100yds so the bullet does not rise or drop more than 3" from your reticle hold up to 260 yds. Hold centre of vitals and deliver 2700 lb.ft at the muzzle to 1950 lb.ft energy at the previously mentioned 260yds. This range can be extended by running a lighter bullet while sacrificing a bit of energy at further distances. Keep in mind a stout 30-06 could put 25lbs of recoil in your shoulder, hence the popularity of the 308 and lesser. PM me if you'd like more numbers ran
 
Papaclaude said:
Whatever you end up buying - make sure it fits you.
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BigBraz15 said:
I have bought and sold a large number of guns, and currently down to 4 hunting rifles, after learning fit and performance I'm looking for.
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Not often I see people talking about "fit" of a rifle on here, but it is 100% correct.

It just seems the north American way is keep buying budget rifles and selling at great loss on the ee until you find something that works for you.

The European way is to save for something nice and have the gun maker fit the stock/rifle to you so it basically feels like an extension of you when handled.

I have tried both methods and the European way is way cheaper in the end
 
Hi everybody,

Thank you, guys, for all the answers. I have been digging a little bit more on the different models posted here and I will need to go in details with all of them. My biggest concern is if all those rifles will shoot 180 grains at 100-200 yards 1 moa or submoa? (If I understood properly 100 yards is 1 inch and 200 yards will be 2 inch) = 1 moa.

I read some recent comments on this forums about the Tikka tx3 not being accurate with 180 grains.

The scope I have been looking the most is a Swarovski Z5, do you think it is worth the price?

I have been able to get more info even on clothes! (I bought some surplus goretex gen III clothes and I cannot wait to try them out).

I feel like I cannot take any decision yet regarding the rifle ;( I focus on Binos, knives and backpacks and I will continue reading about rifles and scopes.
 
180 grains? Don’t worry about it. Most rifles will shoot bullets in their normal parameters just fine. For a .30 caliber rifle anything from 150-200 gr is “normal”
 
I want a reliable, accurate rifle in all conditions, which to me is a quality bolt action, properly bedded into into a fiberglass stock, with the barrel floated. Wood stocks are not 100% stable in wet conditions, and many molded plastic stocks are not as rigid as I like. I also want a fairly light, but very consistent trigger. My own go to rifle is a full custom, but that isn't in your budget. On a smaller budget, I like the Tikka T-3 bedded into a B&C stock, or one of the good used bolt actions that came in a McMillan stock from the factory. I have owned four T-3 rifles, and all are very accurate, as are all of the T-3s that I have developed loads for. As far as scopes go, I use a Z5 3.5-18x44 myself, but I am a big fan of the Z3 3-10x42 as well.
 
stubblejumper said:
I want a reliable, accurate rifle in all conditions, which to me is a quality bolt action, properly bedded into into a fiberglass stock, with the barrel floated. Wood stocks are not 100% stable in wet conditions, and many molded plastic stocks are not as rigid as I like. I also want a fairly light, but very consistent trigger. My own go to rifle is a full custom, but that isn't in your budget. On a smaller budget, I like the Tikka T-3 bedded into a B&C stock, or one of the good used bolt actions that came in a McMillan stock from the factory. I have owned four T-3 rifles, and all are very accurate, as are all of the T-3s that I have developed loads for. As far as scopes go, I use a Z5 3.5-18x44 myself, but I am a big fan of the Z3 3-10x42 as well.
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Any issues with the Z5? another user said after 700 bullets the scope started being not zeroed (I do not know the terminology well) but it seems like he needs to modify it all the time and the more he shots the less reliable it is.
 
If that is the case, the scope is ‘broken’ and should be sent back to Swarovski. I’m sure they will make it right. The Z5 is lovely, but the 3-10 Z3 offers tremendous value. I would opt for the BRH reticle vs the BRX (if using a bdc reticle). I find the brx too fine for low light condition.
 
Skogkatt said:
Any issues with the Z5? another user said after 700 bullets the scope started being not zeroed (I do not know the terminology well) but it seems like he needs to modify it all the time and the more he shots the less reliable it is.
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No issues with either of my Z5 scopes, or any of my Z3 scopes.
 
Skogkatt said:
Hi everybody,

Thank you, guys, for all the answers. I have been digging a little bit more on the different models posted here and I will need to go in details with all of them. My biggest concern is if all those rifles will shoot 180 grains at 100-200 yards 1 moa or submoa? (If I understood properly 100 yards is 1 inch and 200 yards will be 2 inch) = 1 moa.

I read some recent comments on this forums about the Tikka tx3 not being accurate with 180 grains.

The scope I have been looking the most is a Swarovski Z5, do you think it is worth the price?

I have been able to get more info even on clothes! (I bought some surplus goretex gen III clothes and I cannot wait to try them out).

I feel like I cannot take any decision yet regarding the rifle ;( I focus on Binos, knives and backpacks and I will continue reading about rifles and scopes.
Click to expand...

Good plan... but seriously, you'll drive yourself mad reading all about rifles.

Just go to a store and pick one you like the feel of
 
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