what to look for in a colt 1911 before buying
- Thread starter vettes
- Start date
Here is a pretty good guide for you......
And here is a function check guide
[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]The following information, while pertaining mostly to USGI guns is still applicable to any used 1911-type pistol, commercial or military.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]Initial inspection[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]The first thing to look at is the overall condition of the outside of the pistol, including underneath the grips (take a screwdriver with you when you go shopping). Things to check for:[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Original finish and correct parts. Non-original finish, incorrect parts or obvious modifications are something to be wary of.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Correct assembly. I've seen several 1911s where the mainspring housing pin and hammer pin were switched, which is easy to do and a sign of incompetent assembly. While in itself not a big deal and easily rectified, it may be a sign that somebody was messing with things they shouldn't. Check that the plunger tube and grip screw bushings are securely staked in the frame.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Finish wear. If the finish is worn in the usual areas (front strap, sharp edges, etc.) there's nothing to alarmed over. However, lack of finish in areas that don't normally see wear, when the other high-wear areas are fine indicates something isn't right. Be advised however that some areas typically show finish wear for reasons that new collectors may not recognize. An example is on the right side of the frame in front of the serial number. Often the finish will be worn in that location because of the brass flap hold-down button on the M1912 leather holster abrading it over time (a sewn-in piece of leather protected the pistol from the brass button, but the pressure eventually wore the finish anyway). Another example is the front left side of the dust cover, which also receives an abnormal amount of contact wear from the rough leather inside the holster.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Rust, pitting, or corrosion. The three are different forms of damage, but they are all a bad thing. Rust is obvious, a reddish-brown crusty matter resulting from exposure to moisture (or some acids) that destroys the finish and begins to attack the metal underneath. Once this happens the result is pitting, the tiny "potholes" formed in the metal after it gets eaten away. Corrosion is like rust/pitting, but it is usually the result of exposure to strong acids or other chemicals, or even blood. It can leave small pits, or it can also eat up a large surface area at once.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Cracks or peening damage. Look closely at the slide and frame for signs of cracking. See photo below for areas to inspect.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica][/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica] [/FONT]
[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Excessive component wear. It's common knowledge that military 1911s weren't fitted together nearly as snug as modern commercial pistols, however normally they weren't rattle-traps either. Some play of the slide and frame (both vertical and horizontal) is normal, but excessive movement may indicate badly worn parts. The barrel and bushing were also less than snug, but again excessive play should be noted. If the pistol seems extremely loose yet there is almost no finish wear to the contact areas it's time to look even closer (i.e. the pistol may have been refinished). Verify that the rear of the slide is relatively flush with the frame. If not, then the bottom feet of the lower barrel lugs are probably worn.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]Detailed inspection[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]To do a more thorough inspection will require field-stripping the pistol. It's not necessary to completely detail-strip the pistol, but if you are able to, do so by all means! For instructions on how to field- or detail-strip a 1911 click here.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Check internally for signs of cracking or peening damage. Check the breech face, barrel lugs (top and bottom), internal slide lugs, disconnector cutout, and slide/frame rails. Slight peening of the slide stop notch in the slide is normal on early production guns, but severe peening isn't.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Check for signs of abuse. Make sure the pistol shows no evidence of a blowup (kB, or kaBoom!). If the slide or frame appears slightly bowed the pistol may have suffered a kB at some point. Other signs of abuse include deep gouges or peening marks on the slide and frame around the slide stop. It tells you that an incompetent person once tried to remove the slide stop using brute force, without understanding how to properly field-strip a 1911-type pistol.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Check for signs of rust or pitting. It is particularly important to look underneath the grip panels, as moisture often collects there to form rust. Other vulnerable areas include inside the slide recess, the magazine well, inside the frame under the mainspring housing, and any bare unfinished areas.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Inspect the condition of the bore, and examine the barrel in and out for cracks or peening damage. A loose barrel link pin is common, but really should be tight or at least staked in place.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Look at the interior markings (if any) very closely. Fortunately most counterfeiters are somewhat lazy, and they'll often fail to either apply or remove authentic-looking inspection marks inside the gun. It is at this point that knowledge of what markings are normally found inside a particular pistol is important. Either refer to one of Charles W. Clawson's excellent books, or else seek the advice of a more knowledgeable collector. However, if you're the type who buys first and asks questions later you might not be too happy further down the road.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Don't forget to look at the small parts closely. They can suffer from rust, cracks, peening, and wear just like the more important parts like the slide, frame, and barrel. While they may be comparatively easy to replace, finding an identical replacement part is often a real challenge at this late date. If you do manage to find another part expect to pay a premium for it as well. Some early parts are virtually impossible to find anywhere, at any price.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]*Last, but certainly not the least important, look for signs of alteration, modification, or attempts to repair defects or damage. You'd be surprised what some folks will do to a poor unsuspecting pistol, and later what they'll do to cover it up when it comes time to sell the gun. Feed ramps can be ground on, trigger shoes added or removed, big sights brazed on then later removed, milling work done then later welded back up, or markings ground off or altered. Assume nothing, suspect everything.[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica][/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica] [/FONT]
[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]Function checking[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]Once the initial checks have been completed, the next task is to verify soundness of function. You probably won't have a chance to actually fire live ammunition through it, but even if you have no plans to ever shoot the pistol its functionality is important. Work the slide action, looking for signs of binding or ill-fitting parts. Operate all controls, #### the hammer, pull the trigger (by the way, making sure it's unloaded first is probably a good idea too). Most important though, make sure all parts work properly and safely. A fairly complete function check can be performed by using the guidelines provided here:[/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]Last, but definitely not least..... "Always buy the gun, not the story!"[/FONT]
And here is a function check guide
[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]It should also be understood that merely passing these safety checks does NOT guarantee that the pistol in question is safe to fire. Due to other factors such as improper headspace, metallurgical flaws, etc. it is still necessary to have a pistolsmith check the firearm over before firing live ammunition in it. These safety checks are merely for your use at the time of sale, in order to do a quick verification that there is nothing seriously wrong with the pistol. Once again, have a pistolsmith check over ANY used gun you buy before taking it to the range![/FONT][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica][FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]SAFETY WARNIN[FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica] [/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica] [/FONT]Performing these checks involves actuating the pistol's firing mechanism. DO NOT attempt any of these checks if you are not completely familiar with the operation of a 1911-type handgun. These checks are also only applicable to U.S. military-issue M1911/M1911A1 pistols, NOT any other types or models of firearms even if they may appear similar in appearance or operation. DO NOT ATTEMPT THESE CHECKS UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE MADE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT THE GUN IS UNLOADED. IF YOU ARE NOT SURE HOW PROPERLY UNLOAD THIS TYPE OF PISTOL YOU MUST FIRST SEEK THE ADVICE OF A QUALIFIED INDIVIDUAL. THE AUTHOR OF THIS WEBSITE HAS NO CONTROL OVER YOUR USE OF COMMON SENSE AND KNOWLEDGE OF FIREARMS, AND AS A RESULT NO LIABILITY IS EXPRESSED NOR IMPLIED. Safety involving the following procedures is SOLELY the responsibility of, and can be controlled only by the person actually handling the firearm.[/FONT]
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]SAFETY FIRST: DO NOT attempt any of the following safety checks until you have made ABSOLUTELY certain that the gun is unloaded! Point the gun is a safe direction, then:1. FIRST completely remove the magazine.
2. Lock the slide back, engaging the slide stop.
3. LOOK into the chamber to ensure that no live round is present. Feel into the chamber with the tip of your little finger if you have to.
Even after verifying that you are holding an unloaded gun, always keep the pistol pointed in a safe direction while performing the following tests.
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica][/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]BASIC TEST: Slide forward, hammer cocked, thumb safety off, holding pistol normally with firing hand. Pull trigger- hammer should fall.[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]FUNCTIONING TEST: Still holding gun in the firing hand, leave trigger pressed and pull slide back.[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]Release slide, keeping trigger pressed. Hammer should now be fully cocked. Release trigger, then pull it again. Hammer should fall.[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]HALF-#### TEST: Using thumb, pull hammer back until the first audible click. Hammer should be at half-#### notch. Grip gun normally, attempt to pull trigger. Hammer should NOT fall for any reason, unless the gun is a Series 80 commercial. These guns have a re-designed half-#### notch that engages near the at-rest position, thus the hammer cannot fall hard enough to strike the firing pin with force. MILITARY GUNS WILL ALWAYS USE THE OLDER HALF-#### NOTCH, WHICH SHOULD NEVER ALLOW THE HAMMER TO FALL.[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]SEAR ENGAGEMENT TEST: Lock the slide back, grip gun normally, then release the slide stop, allowing slide to slam home with force. The hammer should NOT fall for any reason. If it does then the hammer/sear engagement is too weak. Repeat test once again to be sure.Note: The gun's current owner may not appreciate seeing the slide being slammed home on an empty chamber in this fashion, even though it is a critical safety check. Tell the owner what you intend to do beforehand and why, and limit it to one or two attempts.
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica][/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]THUMB SAFETY CHECK: Holding gun normally with firing hand, slide forward, hammer cocked, thumb safety ON. Attempt to pull trigger. The hammer should not fall, nor should you feel any perceptible movement of internal parts. If you squeezed the trigger and it didn't come to a quick, hard stop (i.e. the trigger felt mushy) then there may have been some sear movement.Release trigger, disengage thumb safety. Hammer still should not fall. If it does the thumb safety and/or sear is faulty.
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica][/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]GRIP SAFETY TEST: Hammer cocked, slide forward, thumb safety OFF. Hold the gun so as to not depress the grip safety. Attempt to pull trigger. Hammer should not fall. If it does the grip safety is worn or has been deactivated.[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]
[/FONT] [FONT=trebuchet ms,arial,helvetica]DISCONNECTOR TEST: Slide forward, hammer back, thumb safety OFF. Grip gun normally with firing hand, while pulling slide back 1/4" with support hand. Pull trigger. Hammer should not fall. Repeat test by pulling slide all the way back, then releasing it slowly, pulling trigger every 1/2" of slide movement. The hammer should NOT fall until the slide has returned to the full forward position. If it does then the disconnector is worn. DO NOT fire the pistol until it is repaired, or else it may possibly go into firing uncontrollable bursts or go completely "full-auto".[/FONT]
Last edited:
