I don't reload at this time, mostly because the only non-rimfire I own at present is 7.62 x 39 so ammo is cheap and plentyful, but recently I've taken up an interest in examining various casings I pick up here and there on the floor at the range. If I <was> to eventually purchase a rifle of a cliber that is worthy to get setup to reload, what should I look for to spot the "good" casings from the bad ones ? I already know about the boxer vs berdan primers (shine a bore light done there, one hole=two holes=bad), and to stay away from steel cases. But thru browsing this forum I keep on seeing references of brass stretching, brass flow, primer flattening, overpressure signs etc... But I must admit that an empty casing for me looks like, well, an empty casing. Is there such a thing as an illustrated guide out there on like that would show pictures of "good" vs "bad" brass ?
What to look for in fired casings ?
- Thread starter RobSmith
- Start date
"...worthy to get setup to reload..." That'd be all centre fire calibres. Reloading isn't about saving money. It's about using the best ammo possible in your rifle.
"...such a thing as an illustrated guide..." That'd be too easy. I wouldn't bother with 'range pick up' brass. You never know why a shooter doesn't keep the brass. It may be old, reloaded many times or just crappy brass.
Milsurp brass(the headstamp won't have a comercial maker's name on it or, the calibre designation like .308 Win. Just a date and sometimes a factory code. Normally.) is a bit thicker than commercial and requires a 10% reduction of the starting load. Nothing unsafe or wrong with it though. Except for the crimped in and sometimes a lacquer sealer on the primers. The crimp must be removed to get a new primer in. That's not a big deal either. It's done once, but it takes time and it's tedious if you have lots of 'em.
New brass is cheap enough that scrounging brass isn't necessary. In any case, the factory brass you're shooting, assuming it's boxer primed, is your best source. Keep 'em and reload 'em.
However, you still need to be able to recognise bad cases. Cracks or splits anywhere(split necks indicate work hardened brass. If you get one, anneal all your brass), a light coloured ring near the casehead, a flat primer(It's really obvious), dark smudges around the primer(dark longitudinal lines on a .308/7.62 indicate it was fired out of an HK 91. Fluted chamber. S'ok.), powder smudges on the whole case indicate poorly loaded ammo or too light a charge.
"...such a thing as an illustrated guide..." That'd be too easy. I wouldn't bother with 'range pick up' brass. You never know why a shooter doesn't keep the brass. It may be old, reloaded many times or just crappy brass.
Milsurp brass(the headstamp won't have a comercial maker's name on it or, the calibre designation like .308 Win. Just a date and sometimes a factory code. Normally.) is a bit thicker than commercial and requires a 10% reduction of the starting load. Nothing unsafe or wrong with it though. Except for the crimped in and sometimes a lacquer sealer on the primers. The crimp must be removed to get a new primer in. That's not a big deal either. It's done once, but it takes time and it's tedious if you have lots of 'em.
New brass is cheap enough that scrounging brass isn't necessary. In any case, the factory brass you're shooting, assuming it's boxer primed, is your best source. Keep 'em and reload 'em.
However, you still need to be able to recognise bad cases. Cracks or splits anywhere(split necks indicate work hardened brass. If you get one, anneal all your brass), a light coloured ring near the casehead, a flat primer(It's really obvious), dark smudges around the primer(dark longitudinal lines on a .308/7.62 indicate it was fired out of an HK 91. Fluted chamber. S'ok.), powder smudges on the whole case indicate poorly loaded ammo or too light a charge.
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
Regarding Range brass: I've used plenty. Absolutely nothing wrong with the practice as long as you examine the brass thoroughly.
Best stuff is just before hunting season, when a bunch of non-reloaders are sighting in with nice new factory amo.
Most reloading manuals have pictures of what high pressure, and headspace does to cases.
It's pretty obvious, if you pick up some 303British brass, you'll soon find some obvious bad stuff.
Best stuff is just before hunting season, when a bunch of non-reloaders are sighting in with nice new factory amo.
Most reloading manuals have pictures of what high pressure, and headspace does to cases.
It's pretty obvious, if you pick up some 303British brass, you'll soon find some obvious bad stuff.
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
The case on the left, not a good thing. The primer fell out on it's own, and the headstamp is hard to read because of brass flow.
The case on the right, is brand new brass, grab it and run.
- Location
- The Conservative part of Ontario
One case, is clearly separated, the other, shows a strong bulge, or incipient separation.
Both these were standard 303 reloads full length sized that were fired in a gun with excessive headspace. The same gun fires that exact load in a neck sized case without issues.
I'll admit I pickup nice looking range brass. This time of year there is lots of it from the hunters sighting in.
Mostly the range brass goes in a bag as backup brass to be used some rainy day.
I found some cases at the range that were in the process of separating and sectioned them. I keep them around as a sample.
You can see the left one has almost totally separated, next one is ready to separate, vertical one has started to separate, good cartridge, vertical one is ready to separate, right one is good.
Mostly the range brass goes in a bag as backup brass to be used some rainy day.
I found some cases at the range that were in the process of separating and sectioned them. I keep them around as a sample.
You can see the left one has almost totally separated, next one is ready to separate, vertical one has started to separate, good cartridge, vertical one is ready to separate, right one is good.
