What to look for when buying a Lee-Enfield

TheCanuck

TheCanuck

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
EE Expired
Rating - 100%
17   0   0
Location
Montréal
Well, i'll probably be nailing my financial coffin shut in 2 weeks by buying a No1Mk3. I know, i wont ever have money again bla bla bla. Been there done that, i'm still paying for my 700P.BUT, a 15 pounds rifle is a bit much for stalking or hunting on the move, so here i am, contemplating an SMLE. Thing is, i know #### all (to borrow a british expression) about SMLEs. What should i look for in a quality SMLE?

The guy would be selling it for 200.

Thanks for any help!
Marc
 
The guy who,s selling it goes to my range and will be bringing it next week-end, so i'll likely stop by a store and buy some .303brit ammo and test it out.what kind of accuracy should i expect?
 
TheCanuck said:
The guy who,s selling it goes to my range and will be bringing it next week-end, so i'll likely stop by a store and buy some .303brit ammo and test it out.what kind of accuracy should i expect?
Click to expand...


MON aka 'Minute of Nazi'. :D

Also depends on the ammo you get, and how close it is too the original 174Gr type. This will effect how your Iron sights are set up. All good with practice though.

Also Save yer brass, and consider reloading.
 
If hunting is your principal consideration, then the features and quality of the "sporterizing" need to be considered,as well as bore and headspace. Some sporterized rifles were done professionally by the likes of Parker Hale, Churchill - some were basement jobs.

1) Are iron sights suitable? (No4 's have a peep sight, No 1's a barrel mounted sight - the longer sight radius of the No4 benefits accuracy.) If iron sights dont work for you then more sporterizing is needed, unless the rifle has been altered already.
2) 5 round mag is much easier to carry. Original issue is 10.

As mentioned, #4's are generally more accurate than No1's, given the heavier barrel and peep sights. No 1's utilize a thinner barrel and barrel band. However, many sported rifles have lost the barrel band, which can affect accuracy.
For a iron sighted, sported No1 shooting factory ammo at 100 y, expect 4-6 in groups. If you manage the sights well, and the rifle is doing its part, you may get this down to 2 - 3 in.
 
I'm no expert but if I was buying a Enfield shooter, without an intention of getting more, I'd get a #4.
Sighting system is much better.
Have you practiced with open sights and are you accurate enough with open military sights for what you want to use the gun for?

Military full wood or sporterized? If sporterized, then don't bother, get a #4. Sporterized Enfields are a dime a dozen. I bought two for $100, both with good aftermarket aperture sights from a gun store that wanted rid of them.

Gun should look good with no cracks or split wood. Hand guards should be there and no cracks.
Bolt serial number should match the gun serial. Mismatched is worth less.
Headspace check would be nice - it's a 90 year old rifle.
Look for "DP" on both the wood and the metal. This is "Drill Purposes" and indicates a gun assembled from parts or a gun not intended to be fired.
Check the bore carefully - bad bores are common but there are lots of good guns out there.
Sights should zero at the range you intend to shoot at. Military rifles have a tendency to be zeroed at 200-300 yards. Enfields can be re-zeroed if you have front sights. Early #1's had rear sights adjustable for windage, pretty rare but desirable.
In my opinion, a sporterized #1 shouldn't be over $100 unless very nice, and a full military should be around $250, give or take $75.
 
i really want an SMLE for hunting. so i guess that means i should look for a no4? i dont want a bubbaed or sporterized rifle, i want one in original military configuration.
 
SMLE is generally used to indicate a No 1. You may consider getting one of each - a sporter and a full military, for the following reasons:

- full military is heavy!
- why risk damaging a collectible?
- if you ever want to scope the gun, you'd best do it with a sporter.
 
The guys are right about price, Unless this rifle is a real jewel, and it may be, it's not worth $200. Go to any decent gun shop and ask them if they have any sporterised No4 Lee Enfields kicking around or better yet, P14 Enfields. Now on the other hand, if this No1 is wearing a reasonably decent and properly mounted scope, it may be worth the money. Some of the No1 mkIII rifles shoot very well in either full battle dress or sporterised versions. From the look of your original post, you are used to shooting a rifle with a high accuracy potential. The No 1 was built to completely different standards (which were darn good at the time), but should be totally adeqate for hunting where ranges seldom exceed 100M. If you're hunting under circumstances, such as a stand or accross a clear cut, the extra weight of the 700 really isn't a concern and maybe that's what you should really be useing. I really don't understand what the big broohaa is about haveing to have the lightest rifle available, the extra weight would certainly make better shooters out of a lot of people. There's a darn good reason why the 700 was made so heavy. bearhunter
 
bearhunter:
that is kinda why i wanted another rifle. The 700 is fine for range work up to great distances, and hunting in blinds or treestands, but if i'm on the move, it loses it's appeal and leaves me short of options. So i need another gun. I don't want the absolute lightest, but 15lbs is damn heavy when firing from a standing position, and it induces alot of shake.
 
TheCanuck said:
i really want an SMLE for hunting. so i guess that means i should look for a no4? i dont want a bubbaed or sporterized rifle, i want one in original military configuration.
Click to expand...

So this one is in original military condition? Then $200 is a good price.

You need to look at overall condition, such as rust or pitting external not too bad, but then worth less $$. Wood condition, no cracks and gouges and scratches should be minimal. Bore condition clean and good rifling. Dark is okay, sol long as rifling is still good. You'd be surprised what comes out with thorough cleaning. Headspace and accuracy. If she shoots three rounds into 3 inches at 100 yards consistently, then you have fairly average SMLE accuracy. Buy it.
 
Last edited:
If you can find a P14 you will be a happy camper. :D

Mine is an old beater sportster with non matching barrel, reciver, and bolt, and it out shoots my all matching longbranch #4 sportster, and has way less kick. :D

BTW: P14 is .303 and P17 is 30.06.
 
Calum said:
BTW: P14 is .303 and P17 is 30.06.
Click to expand...

I can't let this go.... Its a M17 or M1917 or Model 1917 not P17 :)


If your looking for a shooter for sporting you should be able to pick up a good sporterized rifle fairly cheap, no more then $200 and look for a No4 with a 5 groove barrel that was spotterized by a reputable factory. Check the crown job thats usually a good indicator if bubba did the job or not. I just fixed 3 crown jobs that were not cut square. Having a good sized metal lathe is nice, Bubba just used a drill press and hack saw.

If you want a full military configuration then your looking at wood condition as well and expect to pay at least $100-$200 more. I figure a enfield is worth $75 sporterized then anythign else is extra, so by that math a full wood military is worth at least $175, micrometer rear sites, nice wood, good bore, etc... add value, condition will push the price up quite quickly. So a decent full military will run you $250-$300.
 
If I was looking for a good hunting rifle I'd look for the best No4 I could find (best meaning metal condition) not collector condition.

I'd also avoid sportered ones that had the barrel cut down, or obviously poor quality bubba jobs.

The best shooting No4 I found was one reworked at the armory for target shooting. Still chambered in .303, sweeeeeeet trigger, the micrometer knob peep sight, but without the butt stock... That had been removed because it had a presentation plate on it with sentimental value for the original owner. The owner didn't want to keep the firearm due to registration hassles, but wanted the keepsake.

Paid next to nothing for the rifle, bought a buttstock for under $20 put the two together... It looks like crap but it'll put 5 rounds into a group under 4" at 300 yards, with me at the trigger... I'm not claiming to be anything special, I have shot other 303's and couldn't do groups better than that at 100 yards...

Look carefully and be selective. You can do very well, even paying "premium" prices. For around $500 you can often find DCRA 7.62 conversions that will let you hunt with modern .308 ammo if you want.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom