saskgunowner101
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- middle of Sask
Does this mean I'm doing my S&W m&p40 a dis-service by just oiling lightly as recommended in the manual?I thought about using rem oil spray for that almost spooky slick feeling.
What to use to grease semi-auto pistols?
- Thread starter jonathonh
- Start date
i have been using breakfree on everything, but recently picked up and tried FP-10 (only brand i found was at wholesale sports called shooter's choice), very good specs on the web sites
a friend in indiana has a huge collection of 44 amp automags, i bought a few from him, he swears by FP-10 for his guns, especially for stainless steel. it must work because i bought a few units from him, unfired and 1 fired, and they are as factory new in the finish and all parts, not a stain or blemish and these automags are over 35 years old. just my thoughts.
a friend in indiana has a huge collection of 44 amp automags, i bought a few from him, he swears by FP-10 for his guns, especially for stainless steel. it must work because i bought a few units from him, unfired and 1 fired, and they are as factory new in the finish and all parts, not a stain or blemish and these automags are over 35 years old. just my thoughts.
Follow the manual.
For the internals of my pistols I use Remington Dry Lube or an equivalent Teflon based dry lube. For the rails I use Lubriplate 105 grease. The exterior of the gun and barrel get wiped down with a patch that has a few drops of gun oil on it. When my bottle of gun oil runs out I'm going to either synthetic motor oil or synthetic ATF (most likely Mobil). YMMV......
thanks for all the input so far guys! to help the matter out it is a Ruger KP345R and i picked up some rem dri lube today from work and a brush to do the internals, cleaned out all the excess and original grease with solvent, wiped it down and blew it off with compressed air (making sure to stay away from the firing pin) then let it sit for a bit, and sprayed the internals lightly with the rem dri lube, and sprayed the slide rails as well. seems much smoother now! and looks SO much better!
dri-lube won't work on the frame rails? that's what caused the biggest problem i think was having that grease on the frame rails because it collects fowling and dust, then doesn't slide back all the way when the mag is empty, causing the slide to not stay open after the last shot.
Sorry, I should have clarified. Sure, any oil/dry lube on the frame rails is fine, most of it (oil) will fly off after extended shooting, dry lube or anything with teflon will last a bit longer.
And yes, grease on the rails isn't great in winter, should only really be used in summer and warmer weather.
I just meant you shouldn't have grease anywhere else on the gun.....
I am not sure a "light" lube/gun butter/ Slide glide, etc... on the rails would cause that,...that sounds like a mag or slide release lever problem....
I have used slide glide lite on my HK USP, STI Edge, CZ, Tanfoglio, and even on my Ruger 10/22, and Armalite,....with out any problems
You still have to clean the guns.....they slide glide makes it easier to clean up,.....just wipe off and reapply.
Ultra sopping wet
users like KevinB would disagree.Some have discussed Rem DriLube and BreakFree. BreakFree CLP works well on a variety of applications(as it was designed) including knives, guns etc. It works but particulates get it gummed up rather fast.
[One always still needs to clean but for whichever type of user you may be, it might matter to you...eg if you have a EDC knife and dust gets into the pivot, BreakFree gets gummed quite fast. Or, if you are a user on the 2 way range in the sandbox, your gun will require more frequent cleaning.]
Rem DRILUBE is something that works very well on folding knives as an alternative to products like BreakFree CLP. It's Teflon based and keeps particulates from sticking/accumulating in critical areas. [NOTE: Once applied on things like folding knife pivots, one has to move the pivot a few times to 'seat' the lube. Otherwise, it causes quite a bit of stiction]
I have not(nor would I) used it on slide rails nor constant friction affected parts. However, I can say that I feel it works well for surfaces of metal which slap together and cause impact friction. For example, REM DRILUBE is rather good for spraying on the barrel of say SIGs to limit to the 'smilies' if it is of concern to you(you can even grease on top if you are fanatic). You can then also use it for the lug area for just about any pistol(just down spray down the barrel or know to clean it out if you do by accident). One doesn't need to use it of course, but it doesn't hurt.
For rails, apart from a vast number of generic greases/lubes available, if you want to go brand name proven stuff, Militec metal lube is appreciated by many. It lasts long, stays on without being thick, and doesn't gum up as easy due to particulates.
Noteworthy stuff available at CT, Gunslick Graphite lube. Comes in tiny paste tube. Works very well, but if you calculate it out, it costs more than Militec.
There are fans of Tetralube
I have a tub of Castol Multi Purpose bearing grease I have been using for 4 or 5 years and will probably have enough for the rest of my life. It's worked great on firearms and has a temp rating of -30 to 300 celcius. I scoop it into a syringe and use that to apply it.
It cost $5......
It cost $5......
the slide rails are polymer... so my biggest question now is whether or not remington dri-lube is enough on the rails or not... it seems so much smoother now that i cleaned all that grease outa there let it dry and applied dri lube... plus i want to be able to shoot all year round, and it was about -25 out when i was shooting the other day when i had the problem with my slide not stayin open after the last round of the mag
