What type of dies to use and when to use them

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Roddy

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I am just starting to reload .308 for my bolt action and not knowing any better I bought small base dies. What I have heard, and I could be mistaken, is that these are designed to be used for semi autos and lever actions and are extremely hard on the brass but they will work. My brass need a lot of trimming after sizing. Could the small base dies be contributing to that?

I ordered a Lee collet die and a full length die to use instead. I don't think they take out primers so I am hoping I can take my RCBS small base die and open it right up and hopefully it can lunch out the primers without resizing.

It's my understanding you need to use full length dies occasionally when the shoulder stretches out but how do you know when to use them? I heard if they are hard to close the bolt on but is there a better way to measure the height of the shoulder?

How do you guys do it?
 
I've had decent results by just using a Full Length die, but only "part way". I've tried neck sizers (not collets) and got large runout. Seems like the Full Length helps support the case body. Start with Full Length die off the shell holder at least 3/8". Lube and size a case - a small amount of the neck will be sized. Try it in your rifle. Continue working your way down closer to the shell holder and trying in chamber each time until you have sufficient of the neck sized for necessary grip on bullet. With my 7x57, I often end up with .100 to .200 of the neck at the shoulder that is not sized at all - that results in very good alignment in the chamber.
Just because I like to clean my brass before reloading, I bought an RCBS Universal decapping die to pop out the primers - can remove the decapping pin (but not the expander ball) from the sizing dies.
 
Small base dies are POINTLESS. I've been loading for semi-autos with standard dies for 20 years and never had an issue.

Most likely the case stretch you are experiencing is due to sizing the brass too much. This will eventually weaken the case and cause a split case or separated case head. It is important to set sizing die up properly to fit your rifle.

If you just want to deprime then buy a decapping die. They are cheap and work for any cartridge.
 
None of my semis requires a SB die. I did get one for .223; the cases darn near look as if they are belted. Never needed it.
Rifles may be different. If a rifle requires a SB die, that is a worthwhile option.
 
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90% of the time I only use the neck sizing die (Lee) - don't see the need to full length size on my "own fired" brass.

I do full length size (but not small base) new brass before first use or (of course) once fired brass from any other source.

I rely on the crimp function of the bullet seating die (Lee) if I'm just going to take the rounds to the range etc, if I'm going to hunt the round, I still generally just neck size, load and then use a (Lee) factory crimp die - the crimp on the bullet seating die can be "unreliable" and you don't need a bullet moving on you in the magazine or worse yet, coming out of the case when the animal of a lifetime steps out in front of you.

Yes, I use Lee dies - they are less expensive and work fine for the amount of loading I do
 
I use Lee dies and they work fine for my use.
The Lee Ultimate die set is a great set of dies.
http://leeprecision.com/ultimate-rifle-die-set/
After the first load with new brass I fully prep my brass including neck turning and then only neck size for 3 or 4 reloads then resize making sure I do not set the shoulder back.
I also use Reeding competition shell holders when I full length resize.
I only crimp loads the I use in my levers.

David
 
SB dies(they size a few thou more than a regular FL die) are no harder on the brass than any other sizer die. Yes, they are used mostly with semi's(some AR's like 'em.), but don't worry about it.
 
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