What vise or jaws?

Kelly Timoffee

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Want to set up a vise as it would make many many chores much easier.(cleaning, minor smithing, etc...)

What is everybody using?

A regular vise with added jaws?

A specific vise just for barrels?
 
The shop vice is one of the least understood tools which people own. A vice needs to be set up and used properly. There are several different methods for attaching different jaws. The method most in use seems to be to get some aluminum plate or angle iron, bend them into shape and drop them over the existing hard jaws the vice is supplied with. A better and seldom encountered method is to make up jaws of several different materials from wood to plastic or different metals like aluminum or brass and even rubber glued to a plate. Drill appropriate countersunk hole in them to locate the mounting screws that come with the vice face plates and use whichever face plate is appropriate for the job. I have seen a couple that were cast around a specific piece with acra glas and separated by plastic shim stock. Those were obviously special purpose face plates but they certainly did a great job.

Most vices have play in them. This can cause movement that will damage whatever is being clamped. Also, most hobbyists and even some trades people just use one type of vice in the shape of a large cast iron clamp that his mounted with bolts to a bench. It is a good start.

A well equipped shop, used by someone that likes their tools to do what they are designed for will have up to four and maybe even more different vices for different applications. I have several. A large 6in heavy jaw vice, a wood workers vice that comes in very handy for other things as well as wood, a micro vice for holding small trigger parts for honing, a pin vice, a loose three inch jaw vice that can be moved around for better access on the bench, different vices for the milling machine and drill press and a small portable 2in Record vice that will clamp to the edge of a table. I also have a 1inch Record vice that is attached to a piece of flat Delrin that is hanging on the wall above the work bench and can be clamped into the 6 in vice for a very secure base that magnifies the usefulness of the small vice. There is also a Card holding vice. Most used for electrical control cards but often very handy for layout work. There is also a suction cup mounted rubber jawed vice which has only proven to be useful once. It was one of those Princess Auto things that was cheap and caught my eye in a weak moment.

Just remember, a vice is a tool for holding things. It has to be fitted to what you want to hold or a lot of damage can be done to the piece you are working on.

I also have a couple of barrel vices and several fly tying vices. The vice needs to be versatile and strong. Be careful with some of the Chinese knockoffs, they are often brittle or have casting flaws which cause them to break easily, also their screws are often to soft or poorly attached to the handles.

What you intend to attach the vice to is very important as well. I'm lucky and have an all steel home built and welded together steel vice with a 5/8 inch thick, 30 inch by 60 inch top. I don't like clutter under the bench. The clutter is a good place to lose parts and gather the detritus such as chips, sawdust, filings bits of scrap etc. The bench is just as important as the vice and should be chosen accordingly.

All that being said, beggars can't always be choosers and just go for the best vice you can find and build up from there. Put an ad in the local paper stating your requirements for a vice. Often people are just looking to get rid of them. A weekend at garage sales or an evening at an auction house can also yield some of the better made Swedish and English vices at very reasonable prices. Some of the vice coming out of the former Soviet satellite countries are also reasonably priced and of very good quality. I don't think vices are even made in England any more.
 
I got a gun rest cleaning station. But also a small vise with pine blocks and felt.

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I lost my 4" Record and I now have a 6" Record as my main vise. It is too big and the 4" was perfect with a rotary bottom. The best way to pad you jaws is to use 1/2" hard felt bent into a U to fit. I am still using the felt jaws I made about ten years ago and they have never left a mark on anything. With the felt in a U shape it protects from damage to the bottom when you drop a stock into the vise. The Parrot Vise from Busy Bee and Grizzly is a waste of money and will fall apart or break eventually. I also have a Record wood workers vise with padded jaws as well. The pads there are the rubber used for shoe soles, get the hardest you can find. Urethane is not good for padding because it tends to flow under pressure and a tight grip will loosen off over even a few minutes, if you use urethane it should be a lot harder than you expect, you are not holding eggs. Your bench should weigh a few tons but if that is not possible then just screw it to the wall studs with some BIG screws. Nothing worse than a bench that wiggles when you push on something.
 
It is a 2x6 framed bench secured to the wall studs and supported with 4x4's also secured to the studs and floor.2 ft wide and 8 ft long painted with two layers of floor epoxy.

I lost my 4" Record and I now have a 6" Record as my main vise. It is too big and the 4" was perfect with a rotary bottom. The best way to pad you jaws is to use 1/2" hard felt bent into a U to fit. I am still using the felt jaws I made about ten years ago and they have never left a mark on anything. With the felt in a U shape it protects from damage to the bottom when you drop a stock into the vise. The Parrot Vise from Busy Bee and Grizzly is a waste of money and will fall apart or break eventually. I also have a Record wood workers vise with padded jaws as well. The pads there are the rubber used for shoe soles, get the hardest you can find. Urethane is not good for padding because it tends to flow under pressure and a tight grip will loosen off over even a few minutes, if you use urethane it should be a lot harder than you expect, you are not holding eggs. Your bench should weigh a few tons but if that is not possible then just screw it to the wall studs with some BIG screws. Nothing worse than a bench that wiggles when you push on something.
 
I am a big fan of the parrot vice. Add leather cover plywood slip jaw, copper jaws, aluminum jaws and lead jaws. All things you can easily make
 
The broken link below is for a vice that works well for guns. It is a pattern-makers/guitar-makers/gunsmith vice. The jaws swivel and are made out of hardwood so they don't mark anything up. They are also easy to change. If you were really picky, you could wrap the wood with leather.

ht tp://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Vises/Guitar_Repair_Vise.html
 
I have a large English vise and I have some 1/2 inch thick stiff felt bent in a U shape. Cuts on the outside bottom of the U so it will bend. It has lasted for many, many years.
 
I have looked at the musical vise but I wouldn't know if it's good or not until I tried one. The main problem I see is that to rotate it you need to loosen off the one bolt that holds it down. I have a large washer glued to the bottom of my felt jaws. That way when I drop them for about the hundred times a day I can pick up with a magnet.
 
I'd say it depends on what you're doing. A vise is the ever important "buddy with a third hand" that we all need. But the power should be consistent with how much holding pressure you need.

For light jobs such as cleaning and regular screwdriver work a Parrot vise or that pattern maker vise would be hard to beat. And I'd adapt the Parrot with a peaked floating jaw lightly held by the screws through the base jaw so there's some ability to hold non parallel guns. The 3/4 plywood jaws would be lined with thick leather to further bed around the metal with no risk of wearing at the blueing.

For more serious work like tapping out sights and doing anything more forceful I prefer a large machinist's bench vise. For finished parts I rely on a suitable size flap of heavy leather again. I use it as a folded "U" shape as suggested above by Ian so that if the barrel or frame should fall down between the jaws it strikes the leather and not the screw or ram.
 
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