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shooter177

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i currently load 243 ammo and would like to get some better results, the process i am using now is fl size de prime, lee die,trim if needed, with lee hand trimmer, chamfer,inside outside,clean primer pocket , prime lee safety prime, load charge, from lynman 1200dps 3 seat bullet with standard lee bullet seat, what steps/equipment should i change to gain accuracy i have done a ladder test and found my load, i would like to step it up a couple of notches
 
I would upgrade the seating die and get a neck sizer. Also what are you using for a press? The combo thats working for me is redding neck and body dies and RCBS competition seating dies in a Forester Co-ax press. You also didn't mention if you have tried different seating depths.
 
i currently load 243 ammo and would like to get some better results, the process i am using now is fl size de prime, lee die,trim if needed, with lee hand trimmer, chamfer,inside outside,clean primer pocket , prime lee safety prime, load charge, from lynman 1200dps 3 seat bullet with standard lee bullet seat, what steps/equipment should i change to gain accuracy i have done a ladder test and found my load, i would like to step it up a couple of notches

First what gun do you have and what accuracy are you getting? What brass, bullets, powder, and primers are you using? I guess what I am getting at is that your reloading equipment may not be the weak link, or most productive part of the chain to upgrade.

But back to the reloading equipment, you may want to consider a Lee collet type neck resizing die. It is easier on your brass, and results in less neck runout. I don't know what a "lynman 1200dps 3" is. A powder measure? Do you weigh each load? Are you using a turret press? Probably not ideal for rifle cases. The Lee Classic Cast is the best. Also using the press is not ideal to prime. The hand Lee Auto Prime has a lot better feel to seat primers to the same uniform solid but not over compressed depth.

Where are you seating your bullets in relation to the lands? How are you measuring it?

Sorry I've asked more questions than given answers. But, you will not gain anything by switching to RCBS dies or a Forster Co-Ax press. Just same church but different pew. Need to understand what you are doing now to be more helpful.
 
How will you not gain from going to a Co-ax, and good dies? What proof have you of that? IMHO the Co-ax press would be a good start though you can also make gains by a). using neck size dies or better still bushing neck dies that allow you to choose neck dia./neck tension. b) Competition seater or in-line seater should reduce runout, a runout gauge would be helpful. The other way is to go with Wilson dies and an arbor press.
The run out gauge can tell you if your case prep. is good or whether you could benefit from neck turning/reaming.
In regards to the Co-ax, recent test results that I (and others) have read show reduced runout on cartridges loaded with the Co-ax as it allows the cartridge to find it's own centering in the dies due to floating jaws of the press.
 
Before I begin I usually like to know what kind of rifle.??
Then I refer you to this page http://www.6mmbr.com/243Win.html
Then I come back to type of rifle question?
 
It's a Stevens action with timminy trigger in a b&c medalist stock, factory bbl for now and I am getting 1.6 inch average groups at 200 yards

That's already very good, what bullet and case are you using ?

As far as equipment...maybe get something to check runout. Forster BR seaters are great upgrade too. (and neck sizing as mentioned).
 
1.6 inch group @200 yards from a factory tube? Why complain? It may not matter what you do, it just might not get any better than that.

Are you throwing your charges or weighing each one? Have you weight sorted your brass or sorted them by volume? Are you using a match bullet or a hunting bullet?
 
You could try vickerman seating dies. They give very good alignment between the neck and the bullet and save the cost of changing out to a more expensive press. Then there is all the other standard stuff like pocket and flash hole uniforming, weighing cases, neck thickness, annealing necks, etc.

If you want to spend more $$$, you could start looking at a pressure trace system (or equivalent) to see if the powder you've chosen is really ideal and what the chamber pressure profile looks like (i.e. is the powder burning the way it should?)
 
I would also add a large Primer Pocket uniformer (cuts pocket depth square and even) I recommend the Sinclair from Sinclair International. And a flash hole deburring tool. I don't think you're press is the limiting factor at this point.
 
It's a Stevens action with timminy trigger in a b&c medalist stock, factory bbl for now and I am getting 1.6 inch average groups at 200 yards.

My press is a lee classic cast single stage

You have an excellent press, and you will gain nothing by changing it. You are on a good start with the gun. Barrel probably the weak point, but there may be room for more accuracy with good loads. My suggestions:

Get some Lapua brass, Berger 68 Target bullets, and Berger 80 Varmint bullets, Varget powder, and CCI BR-2 primers (Federal 210M also worth a try).

Assuming you have a FL sizing die, short stroke it so that you only resize about 2/3 of the neck. The remaining 1/3 will center the cartridge in the chamber neck.

Try different seating depths, 20 thou off, 10 thou off, 10 thou jam to see what works best in your gun. I'll attach the split case procedure I use to set depth.

If you are not using a powder scale, get an accurate balance beam type. Just use a measure to load the scale, not the case. Use a hand seater like the Lee Auto Prime to seat the primers. You will feel when they hit bottom. Don't go any further.

If you want to make a sizing die improvement then I would suggest the Lee Collet Neck Sizer, or a Forster Bushing/Bump die if you want to go all the way. Seating can be made more accurately and easier with a Forster Ultra Micrometer seating die.

If this does not give you the accuracy you are looking for, it may be time for a new barrel.

Split Case Method

1. Take a neck sized only fired case, and use a Dremel to cut a single narrow slot in the neck and shoulder.

2. Select a bullet from the box you plan to load and fit it in the split case. Pick a bullet with a consistent flat tip, or file it a touch to square it up. Adjust case by squeezing the neck to increase tension as required. It does not need a lot of tension and just enough hold the bullet.

3. Carefully chamber it, and remove it slowly. If the ejector is pushing the case sideways, use your finger to keep the bullet from dragging on the side of the chamber or receiver.

4. Measure the overall length of the cartridge to the tip of the bullet, and record it.

5. Repeat step 4 until you get consistent numbers within .001". When you think you are close, then just pull the bullet a slight touch out from the self seated position and confirm it consistently returns to that same spot, and record the final length of the cartridge, and record in you loading book. Mark this bullet so you don't mix it up with the rest.

6. This length represents what overall length you need for that specific bullet to touch the lands. In my opinion just touching the lands is a poor position to seat too. I go either 0.010" longer to jam the bullet, or increments of 0.010" shorter to create a jump to the lands. Calculate your desired OAL to give the jam or jump you want, and record that number.

7. Use this marked bullet to load a live round long in the case, and by seating it deeper and deeper by trial and measure match the OAL you have calculated in step 6.

8. At this point methods may differ. Some save this load and use it to set up your die for the next loading session. I have a micrometer style seating die, so I just record the seating position in my loading book and use the test round at the range.

9. This test load, or recorded seating depth in theory is good for that specific batch of bullets, if it were not for throat burning. Especially when new the throat burns so is a moving target. So, especially with a new barrel you may want to repeat this exercise more often, or if you bought a large batch of the same bullets.
 
The lyman dps 1200 is a electronic trickler and scale and I in the process of getting a bbl for this rifle , I understand that my results are excellent for what I am using I was looking for some reloading process improvements only because I might Chang cal and don't want to buy a lot of components that might not work for the new cal Thanks guy for all the info
 
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