Whats safe in rust removers.

[jetrefueller]

I just bought a Colt SAA that has a few rust spots on the frame and the hammer. I'd like to know what is safe to use on the frame to remove the spots without further damage to the finish. Is Evaporust safe on the finish or would it take off the finish also? Thanks for any help guys.

 

[jethunter]

I just bought a Colt SAA that has a few rust spots on the frame and the hammer. I'd like to know what is safe to use on the frame to remove the spots without further damage to the finish. Is Evaporust safe on the finish or would it take off the finish also? Thanks for any help guys.

I haven't tried evaporust but AFAIK all of the rust removers will also remove bluing, since the the blue finish is actually a form of rust.

Best way i know of is to use 00 or finer steel wool and light oil (G96 Gun Treatment or WD40 work well) and lightly polish the rust away. Quite easy to remove all the rust without harming the metal, as the rust is softer. But don't scrub too hard or you can damage the existing finish. I have used a brass brush (toothbrush size) to get into the pits that steel wool won't touch, but use it carefuly to avoid scratching.

 

[41 Colt]

Is Evaporust safe on the finish?

NOOOOOOOO!

It will take off bluing.

Congrats on a great purchase!

since the the blue finish is actually a form of rust

This is new to me, can you explain it?

 

[bill c68]

This is new to me, can you explain it?

Blueing is a form of Oxidation, as is rust and I believe parkerizing is similar but less likely to come off with a rust remover. I sometimes soak my parts to be relued in CLR and within a few minutes they are white, this goes for factory blueing as well as cold blueing.

 

[bill c68]

or better yet, from Wikipedia:

Bluing is a passivation process in which steel is partially protected against rust, and is named after the blue-black appearance of the resulting protective finish. True gun bluing is an electrochemical conversion coating resulting from an oxidizing chemical reaction with iron on the surface selectively forming magnetite (Fe3O4), the black oxide of iron, which occupies the same volume as metallic iron. Black oxide provides minimal protection against corrosion, unless also treated with a water-displacing oil to reduce wetting and galvanic action.

In contrast, rust, the red oxide of iron (Fe2O3), does not occupy the same volume as iron, thereby causing the typical reddish rusting away of iron. Both "cold" and "hot" oxidizing processes are called bluing, but only the "hot" process provides any significant rust and corrosion resistance, and then only when also treated with an oiled coating.

 

[41 Colt]

Thanks.

 

[jetrefueller]

Thanks guys, glad I asked before making a big mistake. The gun will be getting an oil and clean today

 

[bill c68]

I had a remington 1100 that sat under a leaky cooler in a cloth case for two days. It looked pretty bad, but some gun oil and extra fine steel wool and you would NEVER know it ever got wet. It was an older gun and not perfect but reall ydidn't look much worse than it did before. Something also I like to do is after you polish it with eth stell, then degrease it and cold blue over the factory blue, it will only colour the bare spots and once you do two or three applications and re oil it it will look great! Just make sure to follow the instructions to teh letter (except the part that says to remove the old blueing) and it will look great.

 

[BUSHMAN79]

AVOID WD-40!!!! It will dissolve rust, but will also remove case colours! I never use that crap anymore.

 

[scanner]

I just bought a Colt SAA that has a few rust spots on the frame and the hammer. I'd like to know what is safe to use on the frame to remove the spots without further damage to the finish. Is Evaporust safe on the finish or would it take off the finish also? Thanks for any help guys.

Stick scotch tape on the gun around the spot of rust. Leave the rust spot exposed. Then use the fine steel wool (I think it can go as fine as 0000 grade?) and rub in a clock wise circle motion directly on the rust spot, and then rub again in a reverse clock motion. Use wood dowels, shaved down, to the same diameter size as the rust spot, itself, and wrap the end of the dowel with a small ball of the steel wool about the same size of the rust spot. You'll need to keep replaceing the ball of steel wool as it loses it's strength to rub of the rust. The idea of the tape is to offer a protective layer over the blue parts of the gun so the wool will not take off the blue finnish around the rust spot. Replace the tape if the steel wool starts to go through it, but you should just be rubbing the rust spot, only, and in circle motions.

Sometimes, if the rust is built up, you'll need to start with a stronger grade of steel wool. Keep an eye on the tape, and replace it if it starts to wear through.

You'll need a lot of patents, and time, work on it a little bit a day, not all at once.

 

[bill c68]

Stick scotch tape on the gun around the spot of rust. Leave the rust spot exposed. Then use the fine steel wool (I think it can go as fine as 0000 grade?) and rub in a clock wise circle motion directly on the rust spot, and then rub again in a reverse clock motion. Use wood dowels, shaved down, to the same diameter size as the rust spot, itself, and wrap the end of the dowel with a small ball of the steel wool about the same size of the rust spot. You'll need to keep replaceing the ball of steel wool as it loses it's strength to rub of the rust. The idea of the tape is to offer a protective layer over the blue parts of the gun so the wool will not take off the blue finnish around the rust spot. Replace the tape if the steel wool starts to go through it, but you should just be rubbing the rust spot, only, and in circle motions.

Sometimes, if the rust is built up, you'll need to start with a stronger grade of steel wool. Keep an eye on the tape, and replace it if it starts to wear through.

You'll need a lot of patents, and time, work on it a little bit a day, not all at once.

I disagree, not saying this won't work, just saying you do not need to put that much effort in, as long as you use plenty of oil, you will not ruin the finish.