what's the lightest mono-metal bullet you'd use on moose

One can go too light with monometals and big critters. The shoulder joint, where scapula meets humerus can stop a light bullet without any further penetration. Have seen that happen a few times with standard bullets. Monometals are better able to penetrate heavy bone, but why give up their advantage by going too light? For me, personally my minimum for moose with a monometal bullet would be 140 gr. in 7mm, 150 gr. in .30 cal. and 8mm, 200 gr in .338 & .358, and 235 gr. in 9.3 & .375. I see no reason whatsoever to choose lighter weight bullets than that, there would be no ballistic advantage and less penetration. I have not used .25 cal or 6.5 mm for moose, but 120 gr. seems reasonable as a lower limit for those. I have carried a .243 and a .250 savage for moose but never pulled the trigger when carrying such light rifles. I think there are better choices, all of them more powerful.
 
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I used a 140gr etip at around 3000fps impact velocity. It worked very well. Through one shoulder and came to rest under the hide on the opposite of a large bodied moose. I know 1 is a small sample size but I was impressed
Especially by the lack of meat damage. The bull made it approx one moose length after the shot.
 
Ive got a load for my 300wm using 110gr gmx at 3700fps mv. I havent used it on game but id have few reservations taking a broadside shot on a moose. However for moose id prefer to use federals trophy bonded tipped 180gr
Any mono bullet should be capable of penetrating both lungs on a broadside moose. The faster it travels thru the more energy transfer and thus more tissue damage.
Monos being longer generally have more bearing surface so a drop in weight is usually recommended as they preform better with higher speed impacts by design

3700fps is pretty darn fast... Any concern you might shed petals at that speed?
 
The regular sentiment seems to be to drop a weight or two when using mono-metal bullets vs regular jacketed lead bullets, curious how light you would go given that lighter bullets can be driven faster.

140 gr Barnes from a 6.5x55 was no trouble, so at least that low. Probably comfortable to 120 gr.
 
When my son began hunting at 10 years old, he was shooting a 120 ttsx in a reduced load, out of a 260, MV 2650 fps. He took, moose, elk, deer, bear with no problems whatsoever. That little 120 went north/south completely through a decent bull elk and exited. none of the dozen or so critters he took with that load ever went more than 40 yds.

wouldn't be my first choice of a moose load, but if it's all I had....I would have full confidence in shooting the 80 grn ttsx out of a 243 or similiar. Great rule of thumb with whatever barnes or similiar you wanna shoot, limit range to wherever the bullet carries a combination of at least 200 fps over advertised minimum velocity, and is still carrying 1000 ft/lbs energy.

according to barnes data that 80 ttsx should have a MV of around 3350fps. that will give you 2378fps and 1005 ft/lbs at 325 yds. I would probably just call that a 300 yds capable round and go hunt.

Using those guidelines my group and I have taken well over 100 critters exclusively using barnes and have always had perfect performance from them.

JMO
Chris
 
As has been said it will depend on the cartridge primarily whatever I can drive to around 2700-3000fps+ and I'd prefer .277 or larger diameter but that probably reflects more on my provinces 5 day moose season.
 
My observation is that Moose are difficult to knock down, but easy to kill. I agree with everything hoytcanon has posted. That said, I have shot two bull moose with 130 grain TTSX from a 30-06. Both were about 150 yards, broadside. One was shot in the neck and required a follow up shot. The second was shot through the ribs. No bullets were recovered.
I also shot two moose, at the same distance with my 358 win. using 225 gr TSX. One bullet was recovered and it had mushroomed perfectly. However, my current, favorite moose /elk caliber is the 9.3x62 mauser. I believe it leaves more room for error and I like the history of the caliber. I've been using Norma oryx (bonded bullet) in it and have had no issues.
I've seen a 100 grain TSX in a .243 go darn near lengthwise through a doe whitetail. When you compare mono metals to cup and core they behave quite bit differently. I'm not a big fan of the explosive type bullets that tend to give spectacular one shot kills. I'll take a Barnes instead. Everything I've read and observed about mono-metals is that they like to be driven with speed, so yes dropping down in weight should result in more energy being expended in the animal.....Sorry for the rambling post .LOL.

Not necessarily, when talking about your last statement . Monometals need speed, the accepted limit being 1800 ft/sec, to expand. While monometals are long and slender compared to same caliber/weight in cup n core, it is going to depend on caliber, speed, distance as to whether each is effective. Shot placement being equal.

Try some ballistic calculators and see where your speed drops below 1800. For example a 308 win 150 at muzzle is typically about 2650, a 180 about 2500. Not saying a monometal will not kill below 1800, shot placement being good. It simply places a premium on marksmanship that is not realistic considering excitement at "the" shot after a long trip, field conditions, angle and movement of game, and ethics/ability of individual hunters.

Generally for monometals, dropping down slightly in weight compared to cup n core, increases speed, making the distance between muzzle and 1800 longer. A excellent source for individual bullet model, caliber, and on game performance is Nathan Foster's ballistic studies web site.
 
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Not necessarily, when talking about your last statement . Monometals need speed, the accepted limit being 1800 ft/sec, to expand. While monometals are long and slender compared to same caliber/weight in cup n core, it is going to depend on caliber, speed, distance as to whether each is effective. Shot placement being equal.

Try some ballistic calculators and see where your speed drops below 1800. For example a 308 win 150 at muzzle is typically about 2650, a 180 about 2500. Not saying a monometal will not kill below 1800, shot placement being good. It simply places a premium on marksmanship that is not realistic considering excitement at "the" shot after a long trip, field conditions, angle and movement of game, and ethics/ability of individual hunters.

Generally for monometals, dropping down slightly in weight compared to cup n core, increases speed, making the distance between muzzle and 1800 longer. A excellent source for individual bullet model, caliber, and on game performance is Nathan Foster's ballistic studies web site.

I'm not very technical when it comes to this stuff....so I can't disagree with you. I did say "should" result in more energy being expended in the animal. I personally don't shoot long distance at animals, so the 1800 fps threshold is a non-issue for me personally.
 
85 gr .277 at mach 3 on moose. Would not be my choice, probably have some spectacular success and failures. I just would not set out to try it.

I am not a big fan of long range either. However, some calibers start pretty slow, meaning 1800 is not that long. Went.on the Foster site myself, many 308 win combinations were not quoted at 1800, mostly 2400-2600.
 
The lightest and fastest big game mono-bullet that I've used is the 80 Gr TTSX taken up to 3950 in a .257 Weatherby. Used it on cull for long enough to know that it's as useless as tits on a boar. Oh, sure it will kill things and with a tracking dog you'll probably even find them. Deadly as leukemia and about as slow. Contrast that to bonded and C&C bullets that make a .257 'bee a lightning bolt with a trigger.

There isn't enough speed in the world to make a mono the equal of an appropriate lead core bullet, if dropping game is the goal.
 
The lightest and fastest big game mono-bullet that I've used is the 80 Gr TTSX taken up to 3950 in a .257 Weatherby. Used it on cull for long enough to know that it's as useless as tits on a boar. Oh, sure it will kill things and with a tracking dog you'll probably even find them. Deadly as leukemia and about as slow. Contrast that to bonded and C&C bullets that make a .257 'bee a lightning bolt with a trigger.

There isn't enough speed in the world to make a mono the equal of an appropriate lead core bullet, if dropping game is the goal.

^^^ This is the best exact description I've read on mono bullets^^^ Hunters, "DO NOT USE THESE POS BULLETS ON BIG GAME!!!" Mono bullets are mostly related to a solid, than a cup and core.
 
The lightest and fastest big game mono-bullet that I've used is the 80 Gr TTSX taken up to 3950 in a .257 Weatherby. Used it on cull for long enough to know that it's as useless as tits on a boar. Oh, sure it will kill things and with a tracking dog you'll probably even find them. Deadly as leukemia and about as slow. Contrast that to bonded and C&C bullets that make a .257 'bee a lightning bolt with a trigger.

There isn't enough speed in the world to make a mono the equal of an appropriate lead core bullet, if dropping game is the goal.

dogleg, just out of curiosity, if I may so humbly ask, how old are you? I want to know how many years of your knowledge and wisdom mashed together with humor we can expect? keep it up, it took me a few minutes to get myself together enough to be able to type this......

ive shot moose with a 140 e tip out of a 7mm wsm. the mono bullets are for high shoulder shots if you ask me. I prefer lung shots and wouldn't hesitate to use a 140 accubond. even a 130 accubond from a 270
 
I've seen moose die from 6.5mm 127gr LRX (260Rem) and 7mm 120gr TTSX (7mm-08) with one shot a piece. Moose didn't move a step. Buddy of mine has killed them with 100gr TTSX from a 25-06. I know a 80gr 243 TTSX wouldn't disappoint if pressed into duty, after seeing what it does to big mule deer
 
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My only experience is with GMX bullets on whitetails... they worked about the same as cup and core bullets from the .257 Robert's, 7X57 and .308's that I used them in.
 
dogleg, just out of curiosity, if I may so humbly ask, how old are you? I want to know how many years of your knowledge and wisdom mashed together with humor we can expect? keep it up, it took me a few minutes to get myself together enough to be able to type this......

ive shot moose with a 140 e tip out of a 7mm wsm. the mono bullets are for high shoulder shots if you ask me. I prefer lung shots and wouldn't hesitate to use a 140 accubond. even a 130 accubond from a 270



54. That shoot was taking out female fallows and reds, plus a few selected undesirables. Two of us took out 500 in 7 days, which was a pretty good time unless you were one of the deer.
 
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