Whats the most durable paint for a barrel??

Beeron

Beeron

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Due to availability issues i have had to purchase a matte stainless barrel for an otherwise black/tan build.
I have used standard tremclad in the distant past but i am wondering if anyone can recommend anything awesome??
I dont have the ability to powder coat and neither do i want the expense of sending it off for cerakote.

Thanks.
 
Beeron said:
Due to availability issues i have had to purchase a matte stainless barrel for an otherwise black/tan build.
I have used standard tremclad in the distant past but i am wondering if anyone can recommend anything awesome??
I dont have the ability to powder coat and neither do i want the expense of sending it off for cerakote.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I have one rifle that my gunsmith did with Krylon, seems to stand up pretty good.
 
I used AlumaHyde, sold by Brownell's, many years ago on the shiny stainless barrel of a Ruger 77. Easy to apply, can air-dry to cure or may be cured in a warm oven as we did. I wasn't looking for aesthetics, just to reduce visibility in the field. It worked great for that purpose, looked okay. Mine was black but I think they offered other colours as well.

I seem to remember that I got it at Williams' Arms in Port Perry. IIRC Brownell's wouldn't ship it to Canada directly to a customer.

It definitely lasted and wore much better than the BBQ paint I had previously tried.
 
Cleaned well and sprayed with a clear protective top coat works!! It’s cheap and pretty durable plus it can be touched up when required.
 
Krylon camo paint from Crappy Tire. Tough stuff, paint my 4Runner and several toys. Holds up to rain, snow, sun for years !!
 
I have used this stuff on several older rifles, a M96 6.5x55 and a P14 .303, with at best 50% original blueing left. Seems to stand up pretty well and looks better than before, at least to me.

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A few mentions of Cerakote in this thread...

I have some experience with C-series Cerakote (that's the air cure one).

Without proper prep it is worse then paint. I would not recommend it unless you are going to follow the relatively involved process of properly prepping. That includes sand blasting with specific media(must also be clean, no previous use on greasy or dirty parts). Extremely anal degreasing and cleaning. Oven drying before painting(highly recommend). Using an HVLP gun with the correct (0.8mm) nozzle. and a decent source of dry air. followed by the 5 day curing time.

If you don't do it right you will have a less durable and far more expensive finish then chassis paint or engine enamel paint.
 
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