What's your favorite .243 reload recipe?

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shikano53

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Hi,
I'm just wondering what your fav .243 recipe is?

Bullet?
Powder?
Anyone use Speer bullets?

I currently have IMR4895 and H4831SC powder that I use for my 30.06

The Speer reloading manual #14 only discusses (of course Speer Bullets) and it also makes this statement, "Warning: Do not substitute other brands of cartridge case. Excessive pressure may result." I don't quite understand what they mean by that. Does it mean if I purchase factory, Hornady or Remington .243 ammo that I shouldn't reuse the brass?

Any comments and suggestions are very welcome.

Chris in RD, AB
 
Favorite load: 100 gr. Sierra Gameking boat tail, 42.5 gr. IMR4350, WLR primer.

What the brass comment means is that Speer pressure tested their loads with a specific brand, and that pressures will vary with other brands. Thickness and hardness varies between brands, which affects pressure with a given load. You can substitute case make IF you use the starting load, and monitor velocity and pressure signs as you increase powder charge.
 
It means they are taking a precaution against liability. While the external dimensions of cartridge cases should be the same and can be verified relatively easily by measuring, internal dimensions can vary between manufacturers (and even between productions batches from the same manufacturer,) causing different pressure levels with the same powder charge.

You can compare internal volume by filling the cases with water to the same visible point (e.g. bottom of the neck) and then carefully pouring each one out and measuring how much water it took. I don't think most people are that cautious. I just start with minimum loads and check the condition of the cartridge after firing. And if the load shot well, I don't bother trying to increase the charge.
 
The manual suggests you should use only identical components (bullet, powder, case and primer) when you use the data from their testing. That is good advice. Every case by any manufacturer will have a slightly different internal volume that other cases from other companies. Case volume is a very important factor when approaching max. loads.

The truth is most reloaders break that rule all the time, but only after they have enough experience to "read" the pressure signs that their rifle and components tend to produce, and after they start from reduced loads and work up. Experience means you can "bend" the rules in the manuals, but it is not a practice to be taken lightly, and it is not a practice I would recommend to anyone who is inexperienced enough to ask this question.

To be safe, stick with the exact load and components you find in a manual until you don't have to ask this question on an internet forum. If you do not have the components Speer recommends, get another manual that reports test loads using the components you have, or buy the components the manual suggests.
 
WARNING - DONT ASK FOR RECIPE'S ONLINE (and assume they are safe)!

Rule #1 - always work-up to a load. A safe load in one gun may not be a safe load in another.

Having said that, here are some of mine;

.243 Winchester (Max COL = 2.710”);

Full; Hornady 58 Z-Max, 43.0/H4895, Win/W-LR, 2.675”*
Full; Hornady 58 Z-Max, 44.2/Varget, Win/W-LR, 2.675”
Full; Nosler 80 BT/GMX, 45.0/Super, Win/W-LR, 2.690”
Full; Nosler 85 IB/Part, 44.5/H4350, Win/W-LR, 2.700”
Full; Nosler 95 BT, 43.5/H4350, Win/W-LR, 2.710”
Full; Hornady 95 SST, 42.0/H4350, Win/W-LR, 2.720”
Full; Hornady 95 SST, 46.0/H4831, Win/W-LR, 2.720”
 
I generally found that H-100V (similar burning rate to R-19) slightly outperformed both H-4350 and H-4831. I use Remington 9.5 magnum primers, although in this cartridge it probably isn't necessary.

55 gr Nosler - 45.0 gr Varget - 3992 fps
85 gr Sierra - 42.0 grs H-100V - 3279 fps
90 gr Scenar - 42.0 gr H-100V - 3218 fps
100 gr Partition - 41.5 gr H-100V - 3083 fps
 
I tested H-100V and it was faster, but not as accurate as H4350/4831... At least out of our guns.
 
Thanks for all the information and comments. Comments and opinions are great, provided one takes everything with a grain of salt and uses the opinions and comments as an approximate baseline or guideline and builds from there. I started reloading way back in the day and just started back again last year. It has been thirty-five years since I last reloaded so yeah, I figured a few basic questions once again to refresh my understanding along with a lot of re-reading was in order. I had a Remington semi-auto that I purchased in 1985 in .243 that I sold decades ago. I just decided that the .243 is such an excellent caliber that I would get another one to compliment my 22-250, 270, and venerable 30-06.
My hope is to acquire a Browning ShortTrac left hand BAR in .243 but I was told they are pretty rare. Haven't found one yet. My other choice is a Savage International Trophy Hunter XP in left hand. I will use the weaver scope it comes out of the box with and see how it is, but I would probably replace it with one of my Leupold, gold rings I have kicking around. I think Savage makes a pretty good product even though for the past 40 years I've pretty much stuck with my Remington BDL bolt guns.
Chris in RD AB
 
This is the two loads that I use, they are right out of the Nosler manual #7 and they work a shoot well out of my particular Win. M-70, featherweight.

Remington or Winchester cases with CCI LRP

#1. Nosler 95gr, partion over 42gr. of IMR 4831 Vel.2931

#2 Nosler 70gr. BT Varmit over 42gr, Varget Vel. 3616
 
I have 4 Bullet Manufactures reloading books, three powder books, and Hogdons website. Every one lists completly different charge weights for the same model of powder and same bullet weights. I even have one load that lists the starting charge above the max charge in another book for the same style 175gr bullet.

I usually cross reference the bullets book, to the powders book(website), and then double check them to aleast one other book before I start. You usually see a pattern this way which will help you decide on whats safe.

I like speers book, have a look through the Manuel, you'll notice that the .243 is one of the few they have any safety notice on, I would suggest that you do consider it.
 
EcoHeliGuy said:
I have 4 Bullet Manufactures reloading books, three powder books, and Hogdons website. Every one lists completly different charge weights for the same model of powder and same bullet weights. I even have one load that lists the starting charge above the max charge in another book for the same style 175gr bullet.

I usually cross reference the bullets book, to the powders book(website), and then double check them to aleast one other book before I start. You usually see a pattern this way which will help you decide on whats safe.

I like speers book, have a look through the Manuel, you'll notice that the .243 is one of the few they have any safety notice on, I would suggest that you do consider it.
Click to expand...

I have noticed the "starting load in one manual being higher than the max load in another" phenomenon also. Cross referencing to establish a starting baseline is a good, safe way to go... When doing so, take note of the barrel and platform used in the testing... If the loads were developed in a bolt action or Ruger No.1 and you are loading for a lever action or hinge-pin single, it would be best to err on the side of caution...
 
Everyone, thanks for all the outstanding information. The overall message I get is use caution and I shall. I am going to start with Speer components and minimum recommendations for the first loads. I went ahead and purchased a Savage model 11 Trophy Hunter XP in .243 from P&D Enterprises in Edmonton.
Thanks again
Chris in RD AB
 
47 grains Ramshot Hunter (burn rate approximately of RL19), WLR primer, and 80 grain Barnes TTSX, Winchester cases. 3369 fps average from the 22" barrel of my stainless/synthetic Ruger M77 MkII.
 
"...don't quite understand what they mean..." CYA lawyer speak.
Been using Speer 90 grain FMJ's and their 105 grain SP for eons. IMR4350 as I recall. You do have to work up the load for your rifle though.
 
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