Wheeler Engineering Professional Reticle Leveling System

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Hey Guys

Just received my new Leveling system I'm just wondering if anyone has tried it before I'm just wondering should I start out at the top of my receiver or install my 20MM picatinny rail and go from there I'm mounting a NightForce 5.5-22×56 NXS.

Thanks
 
I just mounted the base and scope (loose) then leveled and tightened / rechecked... Checked against a plumb line and all was level. My glass was a Sightron SIII 6-24 LRMOA if it makes a difference.
Though jealous of the NF:)
 
mount rail to rifle, mount rings to rail, place scope in rail bottoms. stack playing cards between rail and flat spot on bottom of scope untill scope cant rotate, place ring tops on and snug down, remove cards tighten rings... scopes mounted in the time it would take to set up a leveling system..

but for you... mount rail, level rail, mount rings, (dont forget to push them forward) double check rail is still level, place scope in. remove top turret, level off of mecanical part, place ring tops on and tighten making sure scope doesnt twist as you do
 
Start by leveling the rifle by placing the level on the receiver. Then put the other level on the barrel and make sure both are exactly the same. Then mount your scope and level it according to the level on the barrel.
 
Check the levels against a known good one. Mine were not accurate, nor did the two Wheeler levels agree with each other. The magnetic level I got with the kit also reads differently depending on which side it is facing. I put a level on the rail and one on the barrel using a special clamp, making sure they match exactly. Then mount the bases as described and level the scope. Then double check the retcle with plumb line, all the while making sure the barrel level stays true. This method will work with larger industrial levels.
 
Leveling your scope is for newbies.

Many top position and silhouette shooters deliberately cant the scope relative to the rifle to improve ergonomics and develop a more natural hold. To that point a rifle is less comfortable being held vertically than it is canted counter clockwise for right hand shooters.

The important thing is that the scope is level when shooting – not the rifle.

Then we can get into spin drift….
http://guns.wikia.com/wiki/Spin_drift

As the shot gets further out, the bullet will walk its way laterally (typically to the right) due to spin drift. If you give this some thought, you can set the level bubble on your scope so the reticle is rotated just enough to compensate for the effect of spin drift. If this is done correctly, you can almost ignore the fact that spin drift exists, but you would need to accustom yourself to the deliberate rotational offset of the reticle.
 
If your a turret twister, make sure your scope is level.

I use the same method as ultimate_monkey except I use a feeler gauge instead of playing cards.
 
Thanks for all your guys tips I got my scope mounted everything looks great I have a rear level ring aswell and that is matched to the level on my scope as well as the barrell level cant wait to send some Berger Hybrids down range..

Cheers shoot straight

Heres a picture of my rig

NewRifle2.jpg
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I will add to this.

I use a plumb bob as well.

Set the rifle up as you are actually planning on using it(bi-pod on mat , shooting bench, etc...........)Then when it is set up in this position set your vertical cross hair to the plumb line.Nothing more accurate and steady as gravity. ;)

kiwwanna said:
I just mounted the base and scope (loose) then leveled and tightened / rechecked... Checked against a plumb line and all was level. My glass was a Sightron SIII 6-24 LRMOA if it makes a difference.
Though jealous of the NF:)
Click to expand...
 
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