- Location
- Nova Scotia
I bought the same thing from aliexpress for half the cost. But I don't use the little bubble level. I use a starett.
Wheeler scope level ?
- Thread starter y2k
- Start date
I believe the critical 'level' is to get the Horizontal part of the reticle 'Square' with the rifle so the rifle is not 'cocked sideways' when shooting. My post #11 should have indicated that I get the rifle base 'horizontally level', then 'Horizontally' level the lower half of the rings, then I put the level on the Vertical turret for the final Horizontal levelling. I may be a couple degrees off by that point but I think I'm 'good enough' for under 2oo yds. Beyond that the 'off' may appear as errors to one side or the other.
YMMV
YMMV
I can’t believe a shooter with ur knowledge would come out with this statement! Just for sheer humour take a cross bow that shoots accurately and fire it with the limbs parallel to the ground and hit where your aiming. Now take the same crossbow and tip the limbs 15 or 20 degrees. If your optics are not squared to your bore the gun can theoretically only have one perfect impact point. The higher the scope is above the bore the more prominent the error will become and the greater the error will rear its ugly head the farther the distance.
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
For close shots it doesn't matter but when you start shooting way out there it's of extreme importance!
This is just not true, but it is a common misconception.
The scope height above line of bore does not magnify anything... All that does is extend your point blank range... Or the distance the bullet will travel before it rises to the line of sight.
As I stated in my earlier post, the scope needs to be level to the world, but it does not need to be perfectly level to the rifle.
The more you crank on elevation for distance the more important it is to keep the scope level when the shot is fired, but the relationship between the scope and rifle is not critical at all.
Think of it this way
Heres your scope, but the reticle is level.
..............................---|---
Here's your barrel
...................................x
X will always be just that little bit to the side forever.... That offset does not magnify over distance if the scope is level when the rifle is fired.
Since we can almost never get a perfect zero, you can even intentionally leverage that offset to compensate.
What if your scope is higher above the bore?
..............................---|---
Here's your barrel
...................................x
The offset is the same... forever.
Canting the scope when shooting will move your POI along the arc of elevation, so putting a level on the scope that you reference while shooting is most important.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
Maple 57 - I have a Schultz and Larson Model 61 free rifle. The front aperture sight is on a base that is visibly offset to the left of the barrel bore. The rear aperture sight is also offset to the left from the barrel bore. The rifle is made for 50 meter bullseye target competitions only - so the sights must be set to both intersect the bore line and also have the height differential to deal with the bullet in flight trajectory at 50 meters - is off, significantly, at any other range, the further that you get from 50 meters. Obviously, the sights could be adjusted to work with most rifle cant angles - but the shooter would have to perfectly replicate that identical cant for each shot.
From your illustration, I follow your point if the scope's line of sight is offset to the centre line of the bore - no matter how far out, if the scope crosshair is held level, that offset remains the same. But I suspect most scopes have at least part of their body intersecting the bore centre line - so two intersecting lines. That offset will therefore increase with distance?? When I install scopes, is mostly done visually - to get a hypothetical extension of the vertical cross hair passing through the centreline of the bolt or firing pin - the bore centre line. I therefore do try to end up with my scope centreline (the cross hairs) directly above the rifle bore line when the rifle's action is level. Getting there seems to be easier for some to fuss with accurate levels - junk levels make the job more difficult.
From your illustration, I follow your point if the scope's line of sight is offset to the centre line of the bore - no matter how far out, if the scope crosshair is held level, that offset remains the same. But I suspect most scopes have at least part of their body intersecting the bore centre line - so two intersecting lines. That offset will therefore increase with distance?? When I install scopes, is mostly done visually - to get a hypothetical extension of the vertical cross hair passing through the centreline of the bolt or firing pin - the bore centre line. I therefore do try to end up with my scope centreline (the cross hairs) directly above the rifle bore line when the rifle's action is level. Getting there seems to be easier for some to fuss with accurate levels - junk levels make the job more difficult.
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It sounds like there is an issue with understanding bullet flight when shooting with the rifle bore offset from the scope line of sight. Lets say the scope is canted 45deg. to the right. You shoot with the scope level but not the rifle. You are sighted in to be dead on at 100 yds. You need to realize that the bullet not only has to rise to intersect the line of sight but also has to travel horizontally right to left to strike the point of aim at 100. After the bullet intersects the point of aim it will continue travelling right to left beyond 100 yds and will eventually be well off the intended line of sight.
You are correct, however no-one shoots with a scope canted 45deg. Let's say 5deg. If you do the math, 5deg with a 2" height over bore and zeroed at 100yds, produces a windage error of 1.575". At 1000yds. That's 0.1456 MOA, less then a click of a normal 1/4moa scope.
A generic bubble level over the scope rail and a plumb line for the reticle and you will get close enough that you will never notice the difference.
I have the wheeler kit as pictured, dont use it too much anymore as I invested in an Arisaka tool that works lights out on anything with a flat receiver top and as Tikka's are my current flavour of choice the wheeler kit sits. If you get a chance to try the Arisaka you'll be impressed with how easy it is to work with
