I am contemplating purchasing a annealing machine for the usual reason of extending brass life...but more importantly to improve accuracy by normalizing neck tension. Some competition shooters are annealing their brass every time they reload for maximum accuracy. My question is when, in the brass preparation process, is it more beneficial to anneal the brass...prior to FL or neck sizing (and possibly neck turning) or after? Does it make any difference in accuracy when you anneal the brass?
When to Anneal for Maximum Accuracy?
- Thread starter TJCote
- Start date
what I do is use a universal decapping die remove primer clean in my stainless steel media wet tumblers remove, rinse, dry, anneal, then do your sizing and neck tension. I personally only bump the necks 2 thou and use a S bushing die that I can install different inserts to adjust neck tension, Fwiw I anneal every time I use Bertram brass for my 338 Edge.
The issue with annealing is getting an accurate and consistent annealing temperature and time. A good machine can solve the time part, but not necessarily the temperature bit. Each time you set up, you can get a different temperature. Some information I have seen suggests that the best most consistent anneal is the one from the factory with a new cartridge, especially if it is Lapua brass. After that home annealing is much less consistent. So if anything home annealing probably reduces accuracy.
I think the number 1 rule is to keep your cases separated by the number of firings. They toughen up each time you fire and resize them. You do not want to mix once fired with 3 times fired, or annealed with non annealed.
The standard practice is to anneal before you size your brass. Turning does not alter the brass much so you can anneal before or after. But, keep in mind that most competition shooters are sizing with either a bushing die or a custom sized neck or FL die. They size down the brass the very minimum amount. That alone helps extend the life of the brass.
And last especially if you are bushing or custom neck sizing, there is an option to not anneal, and just let the brass toughen up in a uniform manner. With minimum resizing your brass will still likely last 20 firings.
Last, it is my opinion, but it is based on actual testing, but I think much of the home annealing done, even with the fancy machines is at too low a temperature. Brass anneals very slowly at 750 deg F. It takes several minutes at that temperature to do anything, not seconds. So, while some are annealing every firing, they may be doing essentially nothing, other than burning up some propane, and putting a nice color tint on the necks of the brass.
FirearmsEnthusiast
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I use an Annie induction annealer - very very consistent temperature. I also use 800F tempilaq to confirm annealing temperature on each batch of brass by caliber and by headstamp as annealing times vary significantly by manufacturer due to variations in neck thickness and alloy.
Anneal after tumbling (like others, I use wet stainless steel pins) to ensure that the necks are clean inside. Anneal before neck sizing. That sequence seems to give very consistent neck tension.
Also, this prep is for maximum precision...accuracy depends on other factors as well...
Anneal after tumbling (like others, I use wet stainless steel pins) to ensure that the necks are clean inside. Anneal before neck sizing. That sequence seems to give very consistent neck tension.
Also, this prep is for maximum precision...accuracy depends on other factors as well...
Don't tell anyone, I'm 67 and have been reloading for 47 years and have never annealed a single case.
For me it was cheaper and easier and less time consuming to buy new brass.
And I was getting 32 reloadings from my .303 British brass before getting split necks. (moderate loads)
Read below from the Benchrest Central, even they can't come to a uniform answer.
How often do you anneal your brass
http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?86778-How-often-do-you-anneal-your-brass
For me it was cheaper and easier and less time consuming to buy new brass.
And I was getting 32 reloadings from my .303 British brass before getting split necks. (moderate loads)
Read below from the Benchrest Central, even they can't come to a uniform answer.
How often do you anneal your brass
http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?86778-How-often-do-you-anneal-your-brass
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I'm spectical about DIY brass annealing. Factory brass is heated at a very specific temperature at very specific location and the points are much smaller than what a blow torch covers. For those who anneal, did you really notice a difference in case life?
Actually Lapua brass is annealed to well below the shoulder in the factory. See photo below. The tests I have done show a significant reduction in yield strength and hardness with annealing. Cases crack in the neck from becoming hard and brittle. Annealing does not prevent cracking down near the case head, as it is not safe to anneal in this area. Case head separation can be prevented by proper sizing.
Winchester-1897
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I anneal after cleaning, which I guess is the same as before sizing... This coming season I plan to do it after every firing. I'm not sure it actually makes that much difference in accuracy so long as they are all the same, so either all annealed or all fired X number of times. If it gives a little extra brass life all the better.
You can definitely feel a difference when sizing.
You can definitely feel a difference when sizing.
Match loads, every second firing.
1. Size and deprime.
2. Trim.
3. SS pin tumble.
4. Anneal.
5. SS pin tumble.
6. Size.
7. Load.
For those annealing without tempilaq or a machine without accurate timing, you are quite likely wasting your time. When done properly, you can feel the difference on your press handle while seating bullets from annealed to non-annealed.
1. Size and deprime.
2. Trim.
3. SS pin tumble.
4. Anneal.
5. SS pin tumble.
6. Size.
7. Load.
For those annealing without tempilaq or a machine without accurate timing, you are quite likely wasting your time. When done properly, you can feel the difference on your press handle while seating bullets from annealed to non-annealed.
FirearmsEnthusiast
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- Kingston, ON
Process looks very similar to mine for precision handloading. A couple of quick questions:
- Step 1 - is this a neck size or a FL resize?
- Step 2 - I generally trim after SS tumbling to avoid minor nicks, etc in the neck...
- Step 5 - why tumble after annealing? To get rid of flame residue? I use an Annie induction annealer, so little to no residue to worry about, or is there another reason to tumble again after annealing?
- Step 6 - is this a neck size? Why the second sizing after annealing (or maybe a better way to ask the question is why size before and after annealing?)
Thanks,
Peter
1. Forester necksize shoulder bump die.
2. I trim before tumbling as tumbling helps remove the ridge left behind. Light chamfering is done just before the load step. (My apologies for omitting it originally.)
3. I tumble after annealing to remove the oxidation left behind as I do not want it to build up inside my dies or rifle chamber. Also removes any tempilaq residue in the test cases.
4. I resize again after the annealing process so that I don't have any "spring back" from when the brass was in a harder state. It is just to insure that every case is exactly the same as the one next to it.
Hope that helps explain my process.
FirearmsEnthusiast
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- Location
- Kingston, ON
Great explanation - thanks. I agree that you can certainly feel the difference when seating a bullet on a recently-annealed case.
