When to stop using brass?

C

Colt .45

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How, other than a split case, do you determine when it is time to stop reloading a case?

This is predominantly for straight walled pistol cases.
 
With pistol cases we've always just used them until they've split.

We just had .38 special S&W though, shooting relatively mild cast bullet loads. Not much to go horribly wrong with a case there, beyond cracks in the walls
 
Hmm, thanks.

I've seen people throw out cases that had no cracks in them and was wondering if there was something I wasn't seeing in the case that said it was time to chuck it.
 
I throw out (IE into the scrap brass bucket) brass when it has cracks anywhere, loose primer pockets, or is so badly stained that I don't like how it looks. I have a bunch of 38 spl nickel plated stuff that has all of the nickel worn off of the rims, necks, and starting on the case bodies, and I still use it. I think it look snicer than perfect shiny nickel brass :)
 
With rifle or more expensive brass I will anneal the necks of remaining good cases when cracks start showing up in the neck and shoulder. Never did that with the .38 stuff, possibly because we had thousands of the buggers.

The ones chucking brass after X reloads might have some concerns about fatigue around the web. With cast loads I've never had anything hot enough where head separation became something to be concerned over. Whether I'm right or simply foolish I cannot say.
 
have a good look at the case in question and beyond noticing cracks which are clear signals to toss it, aslo look for any sign of uneven discoloration that may be resulting from the case being stretched/thinned out from reloading or improper reloading. This can happen if a case has been reloaded many times, or over belled on a press repeatedly.
Also, I have even noticed the base of some cases may have the slightest bulge. This is a good indicator that it has been either thinned out from many reloads and no longer has the structural integrity to force ignition pressures out the bullet end; or perhaps had been over charged.
Unless your reloading competition loads (in which case you want to set aside your best brass), I quickly inspect when I pickup, prior tumbling, and agan prior to dumping into my casefeeder. Then just keep a keen on each piece as it drop in to the reloader.
 
I toss .303 after three firings, based on empirical testing - they start failing after four or so.

On the other hand, I've got .357 Magnum cases old enough to vote.

As noted, if it cracks, if the primer pocket is wacky, then toss it. Until then, have fun.
 
Straight wall pistol and revolver cases, until they show signes of failure, most often split necks. Using proper loading techniques, and target loads, it is possible to get over 100 reloads from a single .38 cartridge.
 
Bulging can also be an issue especially out of a Glock. I had my first Glock 22 Kaboom after reloading a bulged case. The Glock would still feed it though. With my new Wolf Barrel not an issue bulged cases won't feed. Yet, if your thinking of reloading for a stock Glock watch for bulging in the brass. Got a mag shot into my foot and the mag release in the RO's thumb. Being Tupperware cost me 60 bucks to fix.
 
if your brass wont chamber your dies are setup incorrectly. this is a very common mistake for pistol shooters

adjust your sizer down as far as it will go, and pick yourself up a chamber checker from dillon. if they still will not fit, you may need to grind a bit off the base of the die to allow more adjustment. i use rcbs dies and they size enough. dillon dies are known to size the brass a bit more.
 
ATOM said:
I toss .303 after three firings, based on empirical testing - they start failing after four or so.

On the other hand, I've got .357 Magnum cases old enough to vote.

As noted, if it cracks, if the primer pocket is wacky, then toss it. Until then, have fun.
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you doing the .303 thing wrong then ive gotten close to 25 or so reloadings now out of 100 cases the oring trick and neck size and anneal after a few firins
 
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