Where to get pillars for bedding?

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LongDraw

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I am going to attempt pillar bedding my rifle. I have successfully bedded a few rifles and I think I should be able to pull this off. I know I can order a kit from Brownells, but I have some devcon for the bedding job and figured that I should be able to source some kind of material for the pillars (aluminum) locally. Any Ideas?
 
You can use epoxy and simply pour a pillar. You do not have to machine one out of metal. They require bedding for a perfect fit anyway.
 
guntech said:
You can use epoxy and simply pour a pillar. You do not have to machine one out of metal. They require bedding for a perfect fit anyway.
Click to expand...

When you do it this way do you pour the pillars first, the drill them out then bed?
 
LongDraw said:
When you do it this way do you pour the pillars first, the drill them out then bed?
Click to expand...

I don't know about Guntech; but I do the bedding first, then re-drill the holes around where the action screws go (I like 3/8"), flip the gun upside down, reinstall the action and just start the screws (which will be hanging in space) and pour the epoxy (Devcon Plastic Steel (B), thats the runny stuff) into the holes. The original bedding makes a seal so the epoxy can't run out of the holes, and positively locates the action. Make sure that you do a good job with the release compound* and you'll be able to get it apart. Then after it has cured, ream the action screw holes so that the only place they touch the stock is at the end where they apply the clamping force.

*I took Ian Robertson's advice and use Hyperlast's Synlube 531, and it's great!
 
The problem with pouring pillars is that the material does not behave like true aluminum pillars. Check out the mechanical properties of alum or steel with respect to elasticity, compression etc. If you start to look at shrinkage (although small) it starts to look less attractive. Improper mixing, air entrapment all tend to cause problems.....

Pouring pillars will work like many things, but properly fitted pillars from steel, high grade alum. or fiberglass rod are hard to beat. Fitted pillars will generally last longer and not be a risk to chemical attack etc.

My recommendation would be to go with fitted pillars and then bed.
 
LongDraw said:
When you do it this way do you pour the pillars first, the drill them out then bed?
Click to expand...

I bed the action first, then I'll do the poured pillars using Brownell's Acraglass and afterward I'll do a skim bedding of the action and bottom metal and always give clearance to the hole diameters. I made tapered screws for alignment and ease of removal.

Shrinkage is non existant with Acraglass. Air entrapment and chemical attack has not been a problem. I clean my barrels with a quality bore guide and a little bit of care... :)
 
Dennis, funny enough if you punch the numbers shrinkage is an issue despite the low shrinkage % stated.... that is if you are particular. Of course it is a function of dimensions.... In this case, more is not always good if you are trying to eliminate variables...

As you mentioned and commonly done, staged skim coating helps reduce the effects of shrinkage. Of course a person should be aware of how much time is required between the primary bedding and skim coating to ensure most shrinkage is over.

I'm afraid many users have had problems with incorrect mix times, incomplete mixes, air entrapment and lastly chemical attack. As we all know, pre- bore guides (and even during) many over zealous cleaning BR shooters found their bedding and glue jobs suddenly go sour or fail......

Cast pillars do work, but after weighing the pros/cons I stopped using them.
 
Joe/###, do you have a prefer steel or aluminum? or does it really make a difference?
And when you write "fitted pillars" do you mean matching the contours of the receiver bottom of just fitted for length?
 
I have used the threaded metal tubes found in the lamp department of the hardware store. They are cheap and easy to work with and the perfect diameter. The external threads are perfect for the epoxy to lock them in place.

Good Luck to you.
 
Splatter, well it depends. I typically use aluminum fitted to the receiver. Similar to master class out of the USA. I do however, struggle with aluminum largely due to the differences in thermal coefficients. Aluminum moves more then steel when exposed to temperature differences. I have never had one fail (bonded joint) but it could happen. I've discussed the subject with Jim Borden and like the idea of special fibreglass pillars that I believe he is exclusively using now. I know he has experienced some problems with aluminum pillars (joint failiures). I just haven't had the time to research the pillars etc.

It is difficult to match the receiver perfectly and well I would say almost impossible. Fitting the pillars and using a full bedding job works well but pending the receiver, skim coating maybe in order.

I think we all know that epoxy bedding compounds have ideal thicknesses. Filling minor tooling marks between pillars and the receiver is really cosmetic.

I haven't done much work with steel or stainless pillars but think that would be a better match to the screw material and in maintaining tensions.

Lets face it, people have had excellent results with almost any material. I think the performance differences come out in extremes (wide temperature ranges and use (occassional shooter verses professional shooter).
 
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