Good man, you are in the 'Blackpowder and Antiques' thread. Look around!
If you can't find the answers to your questions you will never figure out the antique gun /reloading thing. There is a TON of info here. No need to hijack this thread.
where to look
- Thread starter BrotherRockeye
- Start date
Good man, you are in the 'Blackpowder and Antiques' thread. Look around!
If you can't find the answers to your questions you will never figure out the antique gun /reloading thing. There is a TON of info here. No need to hijack this thread.
Madmac:
An antique firearm in decent shape is quite safe to fire with suitable ammunition and they are a great deal of fun, besides.
My shooting activities nowadays are pretty much limited to firing antique firearms .... or, in the case of cowboy action shooting, modern reproductions of 19th century designs. For many of the cartridge guns, ammunition is pretty much a "load your own" proposition, most likely with black powder or a good black powder substitute ..... Cartridge casings are available for many obsolete rounds, or can be adapted from something else. Bullet moulds, loading dies, etc. can be located ....
Muzzle-loaders (flintlock or percussion, and including cap and ball revolvers) are also quite usable and, if anything, are easier to shoot because of the powder, moulds, etc, so readily available for modern reproductions. (The LeMatt revolver, by the way, was a .44 cal. cap and ball design, and the shotgun barrel was muzzle-loaded - i.e. did not use a "shell"....)
I've got quite a few different 'antique' fireams. Here's a couple of pictures of me competing at a "period" event, using a .577/.450 Mark III Martini-Henry rifle and .450/.455 Webely 'WG' revolver - both of which are antiques exempt from registration ....
An antique firearm in decent shape is quite safe to fire with suitable ammunition and they are a great deal of fun, besides.
My shooting activities nowadays are pretty much limited to firing antique firearms .... or, in the case of cowboy action shooting, modern reproductions of 19th century designs. For many of the cartridge guns, ammunition is pretty much a "load your own" proposition, most likely with black powder or a good black powder substitute ..... Cartridge casings are available for many obsolete rounds, or can be adapted from something else. Bullet moulds, loading dies, etc. can be located ....
Muzzle-loaders (flintlock or percussion, and including cap and ball revolvers) are also quite usable and, if anything, are easier to shoot because of the powder, moulds, etc, so readily available for modern reproductions. (The LeMatt revolver, by the way, was a .44 cal. cap and ball design, and the shotgun barrel was muzzle-loaded - i.e. did not use a "shell"....)
I've got quite a few different 'antique' fireams. Here's a couple of pictures of me competing at a "period" event, using a .577/.450 Mark III Martini-Henry rifle and .450/.455 Webely 'WG' revolver - both of which are antiques exempt from registration ....
I love your photos Grant. I keep looking to the left of the frame for the charging Zulus. You could also do a lot worse for home protection than a nice Webley.
I think using antiques is great you just have to be smart about it. An old Colt SAA is a super strong design especially the all steel ones. You can use something like that a little harder than a top break S&W.
However while I will use my top break S&W DA once in a while I would not want to put thousands of rounds through it like you would Cowboy Action shooting. For stuff like that you should get a solid repro.
I think it would be a shame for these great old guns to just sit in a safe.
They built guns incredibly well back then.
I think using antiques is great you just have to be smart about it. An old Colt SAA is a super strong design especially the all steel ones. You can use something like that a little harder than a top break S&W.
However while I will use my top break S&W DA once in a while I would not want to put thousands of rounds through it like you would Cowboy Action shooting. For stuff like that you should get a solid repro.
I think it would be a shame for these great old guns to just sit in a safe.
They built guns incredibly well back then.
BrotherRockeye
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Saskatchewan
I have to admit that since I started this thread I have spent more time looking at antique iron than anything else.Thanks to all who have responded.
On my list is a solid western wheel gun and a big single long gun.I bought a 45-70 on Friday and although it's a modern single,the "old" ammo has me thinking of old iron.
I might haveta take the 44-40 for a walk out back and burn some powder
On my list is a solid western wheel gun and a big single long gun.I bought a 45-70 on Friday and although it's a modern single,the "old" ammo has me thinking of old iron.
I might haveta take the 44-40 for a walk out back and burn some powder
