Where to start?

Dsmer4ever

Member
Rating - 100%
14   0   0
Location
NB
Everything I ordered finally showed up today and I'm ready to get started. My problem is figuring out where to start to find a accurate load. I need to go buy powder, primers, and bullets for my 300 WSM. I'd like to have a good load worked up by deer season.
So where do you start to save time? The rifle is a Browning A bolt in 300wsm. I like to shoot 180gr bullets with it and save the lighter stuff for my 3006.
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dan
 
There's no shortcut to success. What works in one rifle doesn't always prove to be the most accurate in another. If 1.5" groupings at 100yrds is all you need for hunting, then you'd probably be able to get that with any powder/bullet setting, heck even with cheaper factory ammo. If you want THE best you can get out of your rifle, then I'd recommend building up some loads and spending some time on the range. Check out your powder manufacturer's website (Hodgdon has a great one) or bullet manufacturer's site for load information. Start off with the low loads (or 10% less than max) and increase by around 0.5grains. The closer you get to recommended max, start checking for signs of overpressure. Chances are your optimum will fall somewhere in between there.
 
Once your loading bench is set up in a convenient fashion, put the full length resizing die in your press, The shell holder should make firm contact with the bottom of the die when the ram is in the fully raised position; you should be able to feel the handle cam over when its at the end of its travel. Lock the die in place with the lock ring. Lightly lube the case from the shoulder down, if possible use dry neck lube in the case mouth to prevent the expander ball from dragging. Resize each case and wipe the case lube from each resized case.

I assume that you've purchased loading manuals as well as your handloading tools, so break open the manual of your choice to the .300 WSM page. You will note the trim to length and/or the cartridge diagram with the dimensions printed around it. Measure your cases to unsure they are 2.1" long or slightly shorter, and trim those that exceed that length. New brass is occasionally too long. Next you need to deburr and chamfer your case mouths. Don't go crazy here, just knock off the rough brass on the outside of the neck and put a gentle chamfer on the inside of the case mouth the the chamfer-deburring tool.

The next step is to prime the cases. The rule of thumb I prefer is when the powder charge exceeds 50 grs, or when ball powder is used, or when the load is used in extreme cold, use a magnum primer. All of your loads will exceed 50 grs, so the choice of a magnum large rifle primer is appropriate. Seat a primer in each cartridge case. Ensure the primer is fully seated, which can be detected by feeling for a raised surface on the case head, or it the case is stood up on a flat surface and it rocks, the primer needs to be deeper.

To set up the seating die, put an unloaded cartridge in the shell holder and run the ram up to the top of it's travel. Screw in the seating die until you feel it come into contact with the case mouth, then back off the die a quarter turn or so, and lock it in place. If your bullet has a cannelure or crimping groove, seat to it, if not mark the bullet with a Sharpie so you know how deep to seat the bullet, the minimum should be about 1 caliber, so from the base of the bullet put your mark about a third of an inch up from the base of the bullet. Through trial and error get the seating stem to the correct length and lock it in place.

If you use a balance beam scale, its beneficial to have it at eye level. Zero the scale, then what i like to do is confirm the scale is measuring correctly, using a scale check weight set.

Now refer again to the manual. Go to the bullet weight you've chosen to use, and select your powder type. One way to do this is to simply find which powder produced the highest velocity, this isn't the worst way to proceed for a hunting load. If your manual shows powder density, it is better to avoid powders that compress beyond 100% of the case capacity, as these are fussier and slower to load. You will note that each powder has a start load and a maximum load. If you haven't loaded for this rifle before, you want to use the start load, and work up from there. So begin making 5 rounds of the start load, write the load right on the brass with a Sharpie, and enter the load in your record book. Now proceed to make 5 rounds of each load with 1 gr increments until you reach the maximum load. At this point you might want to make up a couple more at half gr increments, but understand, that you might hit the maximum load for your rifle before you ever get to the maximum load, and you'll have to pull all the remaining loads.

If possible set up a chronograph at the range. The safest way to determine you r maximum load is to stop when the instrument velocity matches the book velocity. Maximum book velocity for a 180 in a .300 WSM is about 3100. Watch your brass though. Examine each one carefully for pressure sighs, and be aware that these signs can be sublte and in some light conditions difficult to see. You're looking for extractor marks which show up a shiny marks on the case head, watch that the bevel between the edge of the primer pocket and the primer doesn't disappear, and you might want to measure case head expansion at the web of the case, although this doesn't mean much with new brass, its still good to record it, so you can note any change on the subsequent loadings. If you encounter a stiff bolt lift, stop, do not shoot any higher load, this is your last chance before a serious failure might occur. Once I have determined the maximum load, I reduce that load by 1 full gr and use it as my working load. It won't show much lower velocity, if any, and it will allow for tolerances of bullet weight and case capacity with your future loads. Note in your record book the maximum load and the working load.

Now load up a batch of ammo and check to ensure it falls with the acceptable parameters of accuracy. As long as it does not exceed 2 MOA, it is suitable for big game hunting out to 300 yards although it should by rights be well under 1.5 MOA. If you intend to use the magazine of your rifle, your OAL must be short enough for the rounds to cycle though the magazine without hanging up. In many cases this does not but the ogive of the bullet at the optimum distance from the lands for best accuracy. You might find that crimping the bullet is a benefit in that it uniforms the bullet pull weight, which is otherwise controlled by the distance of the jump to or jam in the lands.

Crimping is best done as a separate step from bullet seating. Back off the seating stem, then back off the seating die a few turns. Run the ram to the top of it's travel with a loaded round on the shell holder. Now turn in the die as far as it will go, back off the press handle a bit, turn the die in another eighth of a turn, and fully raise the ram. what should result is a nicely crimped cartridge. You might find a a Lee Factory Crimp die provides more uniform results. Be advised, in this matter of crimping, my ideas seem to be the exception to how the majority of handloaders work. The best advice I can give you is to shoot both crimped and uncrimped rounds, and use the system that makes the most sense for you.

Hope this helps.
 
For my heavy game rifle I picked out a bullet I wanted (Partition) and loaded it up with one of the more versatile powders for that calibre, Seeing as you also own a 30-06 I would lean towards powders like Hybrid 100V, H4831, H4350, IMR 4831 and IMR 4350 which work in both calibres. There is nothing worse than buying a can of powder that doesn't work for you in the intended firearm and not having anything else to try it on. Just remember to only buy components that you have data for. Chances are you will end up with a load that is as accurate or better than factory.

Cheers. G
 
The Nosler manual always includes the most accurate load for a particular bullet but of course that is in their test gun. I have found that more than half the time their suggested powder, bullet, primer combination is indeed the most accurate but never, as of yet ,at the charge they suggest is the most accurate. Bottom line if you choose a quality bullet and an appropriate powder for the case/ bullet weight you will get a load you can use with confidence.
 
Start by reading the manual. Again if you have already.
"...start to find a accurate load..." I've found powder used for the accuracy load(the Lyman manual gives'em. Quit using other manuals myself. The Lyman book is the most versatile. The bullet and powder makers books, IE Nosler, only give data for their products and are limited in the powder brands used. Lyman uses more.) for a given bullet weight is a good place to start. Usually the only powder I've bothered with too. So pick a bullet and weight first.
 
Rockchucker kit came with a Speer reloading manual, I assume it's a good idea to pick up a fee others?
Thanks
Dan

The Rockchucker kit pretty much gives you all you'll need to get started. I personally think its a good idea to get as many manuals as you can afford or find. Each manual comes at the data from a slightly different direction; in one case it will be maximum velocity with the corresponding load, another will have the maximum load with corresponding velocity, while another will give you both powder charges in weight and volume, some provide data specific just to their bullets, some provide data specific just their powder, while others like Lyman for instance. Match shooters might do best with the Sierra or the new Berger manual, while the dedicated big game hunters benefits more from the A-Square and Swift manuals. I believe my current manual library exceeds 20 volumes, most are current, but all are interesting. But aside from the actual data, there is a fantastic amount of information relating to ballistics and shooting within the text of these books, otherwise, you might just as well just rely on the online loading data from the various powder manufacturers.
 
Back
Top Bottom