Which 308 Dies for target shooting

Mudduck

Mudduck

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I have a Tikka Sporter 308 with 8-32x56 Sightron scope for target shooting Looking to purchase reloading dies - considering Redding competition bushing 3 die set or Redding type S match bushing 3 die set. I read one comment about the competition set where someone said this. "Great product, but wish it came with a few standard neck bushings and a decapper with removable expander ball." I understand most dont use an expander ball but just wondering. They also said they purchased/ replaced the rings with hornady rings w set screw
Anybody have experience with the Redding Match vs Competition die sets. Is it worth the extra or are there more cost effective options/ brands that will give me as good results considering the rifle I'm using ... meaning -No sense in putting a formula one engine into a car meant for driving around the city
 
I have both the S Type dies and the Competitions dies. If I remember correctly the Competition set only came with 2 dies, a micrometer adjustable neck sizing die (neck length only) and a micrometer seating die. I may have purchased the S type die without a seating die.

Since I load for more than one .308 rifle, I use the S type to FL resize and the Competition seater for everything.

If you buy the Competition neck sizer/seater die set, sooner or later (after 4-5 loadings) you will need to FL resize anyway. To save yourself from some head banging later, buy a Redding body die with for whatever caliber you plan to load.
 
Redding Competition #58155

Has three dies - Neck sizing, seating, and body.

As posted above, you'll need bushings.....get the titanium nitride type.
 
Redding has three differet SETS

Competiion dies with micrometer seater AND neck sizing die waste of money

Type S Match Bushing Neck Sizing set - - would be my choice if you were using a single shot

Type S Match FL Bushing Die set - this is your money shot. It has a micrometer seater, and a FL resizing die with a neck bushing. This is what you will want with a mag-loading rifle like yours. As Ganderite said, get a titanium Nitride Bushing that is .003 smaller than the neck with a bullet seated.
 
@paperslayer nails it.

I have the Redding competition die set that includes the micrometer-adjustable neck sizing die. I think the micrometer-adjustable *seater* is fantastic and definitely worth having, but I think the micrometer-adjustable *sizer* die is not worth paying for. It's a wonderful seater, but in practice I never find any occasion to use its adjustment mechanism. The "Type S" sizer (which I also have used, for a different caliber) is preferable (not that it's better - it does just as good a job and it is cheaper).

If you do get a neck sizer, also get the "body die" too. This is a really nice and flexible combination. Most of the time I'll just neck size my brass, to save time (lubrication and cleaning not needed). This assumes that the brass is coming from and going to the same rifle. If/when I need to size, the body die does a great job (and there's enough neck clearance in it so that you can even size loaded ammo with it).

Redding gear is quite good, but they are quite pricey (a bit disproportionately too). Another first-rate micrometer seating die you might want to consider, fully the quality equal of the Redding, is the Forster seater die.
 
So basically you guys would suggest to go with the Type S neck and body sizer and the competition seating die. If the budget didnt allow for all three dies would you go with the full body die first then add the neck sizer later? Also what do you think of the Forster Neck and body sizing dies? Also hoe do you know what bushing size for the dies?

Thanks
 
Just an FYI, for Redding supplies I find Grouse River Outfitter second to none for customer service and great shipping, if they don't have what you need, then I use Sinclairs
 
decapper die

I use a seperate decapper die so I can clean my brass before putting it through the various dies. Primer pockets and casing are then nice and clean and the other dies stay cleaner. The dies is cheap and will work for all different calibers. 223, 6mm ppc, 308, and I think it even worked for my 45 70 (will have to try it again to be sure) so far with decapper. I am so lazy that I use the small primer decapping pin for all sizes and have not broken the pin yet.

Rodney
 
So is the Type S bushing FL die a better idea than a normal non bushing fl die? Would I be safe getting a Type S fl die and competition seating die , then later buying a Type S neck die? Is there any disadvantges to using a bushing style die?
 
Thanks everybody for throwing in your perspectives and experience on which type of dies for reloading for target shooting - I know there are a lot of different approaches and all have merit and I really appreciate everyone taking the time to share their experience. After listening to everyone AND driving myself crazy with options I decided to go with the following - a Lee collet neck die, Redding body die and a Forster BR seater die. Once they arrive and I work with them a bit I will let you know what I think and how they are working. I wanted to keep things simple and hoping this does the trick, plus it was a very cost effective approach. Thank you to Jerry at Mystic Precision for helping me with my final decision.... However as I understand it once I get my first AR type rifle and sell off a few 22 cal pistols to purchase a more manly caliber..everything will change with reloading for a semi and pistol :eek:( sigh ... and the madness continues!
 
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There is nothing wrong with Redding dies, they are good, look fancy and very expensive but most of that extra money paid is mostly in a name recognition, the same for instance when you could buy a Cadilac for twice the money but beside chromed bumper you still will get the V8 and automatic transmision from Chevy Nova. Over the years I tried many competition dies; Forester, Bonanza Benchrest, Pacific, Redding, RCBS, Lachmiller etc, etc and my conclusion IMHO is that not the most expensive die is the best. In most instances the most accuracy obtained by me was from Lee collet die, Pacific Durachrome FL and Hornady ND seater. If you want to get fancy then CH seater (copy of Wilson's) will keep as good or better bullet aligment but arbour press is required (read; expensive) Yes, the Hornady rings are undisputed champions so why not to start with Hornady New Dimension dies to start with?
 
I have been thinking about the same setup or going with the redding kit that includes the Type S neck die , simple body die and the competition seater. Still got a while to decide.

Thanks
 
TrxR said:
I have been thinking about the same setup or going with the redding kit that includes the Type S neck die , simple body die and the competition seater.
Thanks
Click to expand...
That was part of my dilemma as well but after talking with Jerry at precision ( and he does a lot of target shooting) this setup sounds like it will give me great results while remaining very cost effective so I will have cash for some other stuff
 
Seat your bullet in your brass. measure the OD of the neck. Buy the Redding bushing neck sizer and the sizing ring 3 thou smaller than that OD.
Click to expand...

I am personally using bushings that are .002" under, with very good results.Redding is now recommending less neck tension than they originally recommended.
 
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