Which .357 is "better" : SW 19-4 or SW 27-1 ???

Which is a much better pistol/deal ???

  • S&W model 19-4 .357 blue / excellent for $450.00

    Votes: 7 23.3%

  • S&W model 27-1 .357 blue / excellent for $800.00

    Votes: 23 76.7%
  • Total voters
    30
Pietro Beretta

Pietro Beretta

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I was told by someone that the S&W model 19 series frame was not meant to handle a high-volume of factory .357 Magnum loads:eek:. It was meant to handle .38's and the occasional .357's. Too many powerfull .357's in the model 19 frame could cause the cylinder to "explode" / crack, etc ???

Is this total BS, or a real possibity??? The same individual who told me this stated that the SW model 27 .357 mag is the "Cadillac" of all .357's. The model 27 series sports a different tougher frame and is truly meant for powerfull .357 magnums

What do you guys think...which is a much better SW revolver, model 19-4 or the model 27-1 ??? I will be shooting nothing but factory .357 magnums threw the gun.

Thanks.
 
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Supposedly the issue with K frame .357s is with lighter magnum loads, such as 110 or 125 grain, which can cause cracking of the forcing cone at the 6 o'clock position. If you check a K Frame, you'll see a flattened area there that's a little thinner than the rest of the barrel. I would say there would be little doubt that a Model 27-1 is a better-made revolver, with the lustrous blueing and checkered topstrap, but I don't know if it'd be worth twice the price. The N frame can definitely withstand more .357's. K Framed S&W's have a wonderful balance, but I wouldn't fire a bunch of magnum rounds through one.
 
the 19 price is decent, but keep to .38sp loads if you do alot of shooting. The 29 price is too high, way too high.
You can get a 586 or 686 for $450-$600 in EX condition, which would be my pick.
 
The 27 (especially the earlier ones) are in a class by themselves, checkered sight ribs, recessed and chamfered cylinder bores, hand tuned and fitted actions and genuine high quality, old school S&W blueing.
 
imho, neither in terms of the better gun for 357 mag shooting

the 27 is wonderful, but the n frame was designed for 41 or 44 magnum load, beautiful workmanship, i had a 28 highway patrolman, and a few model 29's

the 19 was not designed for regular mag loads, no personal experience but it is lighter than the colt python I frame, which was designed to take the full loads.

then smith went to the L frame, and the 586 or 686 is the best if included in a poll

kind of like goldilocks checking out the beds, chairs and porridge concept.

the 4 inch L frame had from my own past experince, the best balance for point shooting, at shoulder or chest height, about dead on within 15 yards, using one hand or two, imho.
 
after thought, the k frame is a better value in that for accessories, there are tons of good speedloaders, holsters, speedloader pouches, pachmyer grips etc. for deep discount prices (because most went to L frames)
 
I like both models and would have trouble deciding between the two. If I were to fire strictly magnum ammo then I would definitely go with the 27 or the 28.

Model 19
guncollection044.jpg

Model 27
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"but the n frame was designed for 41 or 44 magnum load,"

Well, seeing as how the N frame was around for about 50 years before the 44 Mag came along, even longer before the 41 Mag, I think you're mistaken. The 27 is better finished, and a better choice for full power 357 loads. The 19 was designed as an easy to carry "cop's gun", that would only be called upon to shoot hi pressure 357s occasionally. - dan
 
I bought my Model 19-3, 6" barrel new in 1973 and fired plenty of 357 loads through it. I look after my stuff and it looks as nice as when I bought it. It's probably my favorite S&W revolver. Great balance, quick to point it's a real pleasure to shoot. The gun is still tight and locks up solid with no cylinder wobble, 4 thou. between the cyl. front and the forcing cone. The forcing cone is still perfect.

Whether you're using 38 special, +P 38 special, or full throtle 357 ammo don't be using the lighter bullets. Use 158 gr. bullets. If you use the 110 gr or even 125 gr -- the bullet is not long enough to seal off the cyl chamber and when the bullet enters the rifling the short bullet allows explosive gases to escape the chamber and burn the dickens out of the forcing cone and not to mention the blast line on the underside of the top strap. The bottom of the forcing cone is milled flat on the O/D to enable the cylinder to clear when it swings out. This enable the gun to be a little more user friendly and not awkard or clunky.

But on the other hand there's nothing wrong with the N frame S&W either. I got both and think they're great; just the Model 19 is such a sweetheart to handle and shoot. Use the correct ammo and you'll enjoy either one. It's all up to you.

Regards;
Rod
 
S&W's L-frame.

The Smith and Wesson L-frame is a direct result of the failure of the K frame to digest 357magnum loads.
At the time, many police agencies issued various model K frames. Most departments qualified with light loads and or wadd cutters and carried magnum loads on duty.
Qualifying with lighter loads than actual duty loads became a training issue, so departments began requiring officers to qualify with duty loads.
Duty loads, magnums and what have you began to take a toll on the K frame.
Some guns failed, others took such a beating they had to be replaced, some guns needed to be repaired alot and other reliability issues that the full power magnum loads created.
S&W responded by introducing the L frame as a compromise between the K and the N. It was designed to take magnum loads. If you want to shoot a mostly diet of magnum loads, the L-frame is a good choice....:cool:
 
I've had three K-frames, one model 19 and two 66's. With a steady diet of heavy 357 loads, I've had a number of 'problems' with two of the three and a shooting buddy of mine in the local club has had similar experiences with the two he's had. Most of those hotter loads were Keith type full house loads using the 173gr SW of his design. I've had three N-frame 357's, two model 27's and one 28 and with virtually the same 'diet', never a problem. Again in the N-frame I've never had problems with any of the other calibers, 41 Mag, 44 Mag or the 45. It's a rough guess but over the years, for every problem I've heard that anyone's had with an N-frame I've probably heard of ten problems with K-frame 357's. An L-frame I've never had but it, like my Python sounds like a good compromise concerning frame size. And with the Python, and I've never experienced a problem with mine.
 
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To further what was said about the N frame being too big - the original name of the Model 27 was "The 357 Magnum Revolver". It was the most powerful handgun at the time, came in a presentation box, and was registered to it's owner by Smith and Wesson. You could spend the rest of your life shooting full power 125 grain loads through a 27 and all you'd end up with is a sore hand.
 
I would go with the Model 27 and the price probably isn't bad if you want to add to a collection. Other than that it is not what you want for a constant shooter as that would only decrease the value of a revolver that was only made for one year, as the Model 27-1 was introduced in 1960 and became the model 27-2 in 1961. According to the SCOS&W expect to pay a "Premium for Model 27-1".
 
better 357

you should have included the Model 28, it is the no frills copy of the Model 27.buy a model 28, if all you intend to do is shoot.
 
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