which barrel length?

[Duck_Hunter]

I'm looking for a straight taper, fluted in .308 winchester. So far I'm think 18" with 0.75" muzzle, 20" with 0.7" muzzle or 22" with 0.7" muzzle (maybe lighten up muzzle diameter with this lenght for weight?).
Rifle utilizes a rem 700 action already trued, main purpose is general hunting rifle with shots up to 300 yards but rarely. What do you guys suggest? I know about the longer barrel = higher velocity and its affects on wind drift and stiffer being theoretically more accurate.
I'm leaning towards the 18" barrel as my father has a rem 600 built by Hart with these dimensions and it really shoots. For my application do you think my thinking is sound or am I off in left field?
Weight is also a large consideration all these barrels weigh 3.1-3.25lbs (18" is lighest) by my calculations, I have a lightweight stock for the rifle(extremely lightweight), gretan titanium firing pin assembly, the bolt will be fluted and the handle skeletonized.
I keep second guessing myself and could use some advice

 

[Obtunded]

Refreshing to see someone with a single purpose in mind (not, I want a combination, moose, gopher, target, tactical rifle) 300 yards max? Go with with light weight and comfortable. Go for minimal weight, and length that will give balance. 18 or 20. Hunting rifles don't shoot 20 round strings, so heat doesn't sound like an issue. Shorter barrels generally have less trouble with harmonics than longer barrels, so the accuracy is going to be just fine for your purpose.

 

[manbearpig]

sounds like you are going to pay an obscene amount of money for skeletonizing, fluting, titanium, aluminum, yadda yadda.

if this is for 'general hunting' why not just not get a straight contour barrel? the only time youll need a bull barrel like that is for lots of paper shooting or shooting fields seriously infested with pdogs.

sounds to me like youre going to spend two thousand dollars on a 10lb rifle and making it into an 9 lb rifle. why not just buy a 6.5lb rifle to begin with for 1/3 the price? for cold bore shots you gain nothing from going with a straight contour barrel.

 

[Duck_Hunter]

^well....you see...i'm completely addicted to firearms, like every gunnut....and I need to customize my gun. The gun will weigh in the 6.75lb range(without scope/rings or factoring in gretan assembly, bolt fluting/skeletonizing), approximately. Truthfully, I'll skeletonize the handle myself so its only the rebarrel and the fluting of the bolt left. It will also be used at the range but not for long range shooting.
Obtunded you've made me feel better about my decision, thanks.

 

[mpwolf]

It seems to me that the rifle you are proposing is going to be incredibly muzzle heavy. If you take all the weight out of the ass end, the heavier tube is going to want to nose dive into the dirt. If I was trying to build a rifle to suit the purpose you discribe, I'd find a 700 sa, or a model 7 action, sit it in a light stock, (like a Ti take off, or a Macmillan edge), and throw a sporter contour tube on it. Chop it at 20", load it up w/ 150 tsx's and some h4895, and go kill stuff. It won't be more than 7lbs, and it should balance nicly.

 

[tiriaq]

A fluted barrel will be stiffer than an unfluted barrel of the same length and weight. This is because its diameter will be greater. Whether it will shoot better is anyone's guess; individual barrels vary from one to the next.
You are looking at a fairly expensive barrel though, because it will be completely custom.
If you want a compact rifle with a relatively stiff barrel with a reputation for accuracy, look for a Remington 600 in .308.