Which case to reload ?

L

Louis

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Hi,
I have to reload for my .303 brit. And I want to know which case to use...
Which is better to use between FC, winchester, prvi, sellier & bellot, and remington ?

Is sellier &bellot 1 fired brass could be a good one ?

Let me know your feeling and your experience about .303 reloading

Thanks
Louis
 
Sort out the ones with the 2 flash holes and stick them in a bag you might need them some day
if you have steel ones toss them

Sort out the rest by who made them and reload
with the 303 do not over size you case
think about short sizing your case (only size part of the neck --don't push shoulder back) or neck sizing
 
IVI brass has been working great for me. Not sure where to get it though. I wish the EE did not stop us from selling it.
 
Louis said:
Hi,
I have to reload for my .303 brit. And I want to know which case to use...
Which is better to use between FC, winchester, prvi, sellier & bellot, and remington ?

Is sellier &bellot 1 fired brass could be a good one ?

Let me know your feeling and your experience about .303 reloading

Thanks
Louis
Click to expand...

When I used to own and reload for 303 I reloaded fired Winchester brass and new Prvi brass. Both worked fine and held up to multiple reloads without problems.

I've not reloaded S&B brass but have heard of some issues with it -- something about the primer pockets being odd. I don't recall if it was that S&B primers do not fit S&B brass or if it was that North American-made primers don't fit S&B brass. If you have some S&B brass you can certainly try it but I don't think I would go out of my way to locate it for reloading.

As I post this, Tradeex has Prvi 303 brass available at $85.00 per 100: https://www.tradeexcanada.com/content/303-british-brass-prvi--

About reloading tools: I used the Lee 3-die set, the Lee collet set, and the Lee Loader. Of all of them I really preferred the Lee Loader for 303. When I sold my 303 stuff I sold the dies and kept the Lee Loader just in case I get back into 303.

When reloading for 303, be sure to check the cases internally for grooves developing at the bottom of the case. I made a "pick" from a heavy-duty paperclip -- partially unfold the clip , bend a short hook at the unfolded end, and file the hook sharp -- and used that to feel along the case walls starting at the base. What you are looking for is the hook catching on a groove or indentation in the bass -- that indicates that the brass is stretching and thinning which may eventually lead to a case head separation.

Here's a good video on this sort of thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O87AiTHDl1k

Good luck with your reloading.
 
prvi is good, nice heavy brass.

s&b that I had had the flash holes a bit off center, and a little oversized, but they worked.

Winchester, Rem, FC, were all thinner then the prvi and started to fail after a few reloads, I don't separate my brass and neck size for each rifle. when you have a few dozen enfields separating the brass for each rifle is not practical.

IVI brass is also good.

But enfields will eat brass, unless you separate you brass for each rifle, or only shoot the enfields with tight chambers. (its not a headspace issue, its an oversize chamber issue)
 
Gnome75 said:
It is listed in a sticky as one of the rules. Its a real shame
Click to expand...

What?

I've just checked the rules and it says:

3. Stolen government properties and items of questionable origin are disallowed. These include any DND equipment items, which have not been released to the general public for sale. It is the responsibility of the posters to prove the legitimacy of the items. Sale of stolen goods will result in a permanent ban from CGN without warning. CGN has discretion of not allowing items that it deems to be risky at moderators’ or Administrator’s discretion;

Therefore, they should be permitted but a proof of purchase must be provided if challenged.
 
Dake21 said:
What?

I've just checked the rules and it says:

3. Stolen government properties and items of questionable origin are disallowed. These include any DND equipment items, which have not been released to the general public for sale. It is the responsibility of the posters to prove the legitimacy of the items. Sale of stolen goods will result in a permanent ban from CGN without warning. CGN has discretion of not allowing items that it deems to be risky at moderators’ or Administrator’s discretion;

Therefore, they should be permitted but a proof of purchase must be provided if challenged.
Click to expand...

I guess I overlooked that part. I could not prove proof of purchase any way. Even if a receipt was given it is decomposed by now
 
I acquired a bunch of that IVI brass before the prohibition was issued. The supplier had a receipt, so legit sale.
It is very good brass.
Mind you, I have NO Lee-Enfield rifles, only a couple of P14s and a 1910 Ross. They are much easier on brass.
I do keep my brass separated according to the rifle it was fired in.
Of the brass the OP mentioned, I would opt for the PRVI stuff. It has consistent rim thickness, and seems to be quite good.
That being said, I have got decent life from Remington and Winchester brass. Cannot speak for the S&B, though.
As mentioned, do not oversize your brass, and it will last longer. Regards, Dave
 
Thank you guys, maybe I'll contact some of you when I'll start to reload.

If you know good source of 303 brass or .303 surplus (174gr) let me know.
 
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