Which Husqvarna to get....

The 16- is a budget rifle. This sounds like an insult but back then budget meant something else... you got plain wood and basic sights.
If you are into that, the older years had a steel trigger guard.
They have a CRF action, as smooth as a CRF action can be, but triggers are usually pretty bad compared to more recent designs.
The bolt release lever is weak and fragile, and has a tendency to stick when dirty, allowing the bolt to leave the rifle if pulled fast enough. You must keep it clean.
The stocks crack often with age because of the design of the rear action screw. Proper relieving and bedding eliminates this.


The 1900 is completely different and is what I would call a higher quality product, even if it was designed with some cost cutting measures.
It usually has better wood and bluing, and triggers are as good as anything else, and are adjustable.
I prefer them to the contemporary Sako offerings but they are comparable in quality. The bolt is as smooth as a well used T3 and has 2 lugs and a Sako style extractor. The simple safety locks the bolt closed. Pretty basic; but well executed and refined.
I have to say they feel heavier than the 1640.
I had the chance to compare all variants of 1900 side by side when visiting someone who has more of them than me: Husqvarna, FFV, Carl Gustaf, unlicensed Zoli and licenced Zoli. I couldn't see a difference in quality, but there were small differences in stock and sight design. The Antonio Zoli 1900 is still made today and is a fine rifle.


If you are shopping for these you may also be cross shopping the Carl Gustaf 2000, the finest rifle of the 3. It is as fine a rifle as anything you can get under 3k and is nicer than contemporary Sakos, except deluxe models.
The controls are pretty much like a Sako 85 and allow unlocking the bolt when on safe. Very good triggers.
It has a very short bolt throw that leaves the bolt handle parallel with the ground, due to a 3 lug action that also has a bolt face that surrounds the cartridge completely, the Remington 700's best feature. It has a 45 degree main action screw like a Ruger M77.

The 1900 and 2000 have no cons that I know of.
 
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I don't know how you measure it, but for what it worth, the Husqvarna 1640 sold in North America for the production period - from 1954 to about 1972 (the leftover from the HVA manufacture were bought by Smith & Wesson and Tradewinds who then introduced their "HUSKY H-5000 which was, their "budget" rifle), namely the 3000/3100/4000/4100/450 were NOT budget rifles. The craftmanship and material used for theses are exactly the same as for the 1900 serie. The selling price was much higher than any Remchestavage of it's time for the same grade too. Actually, the 1900 are just the continuity of the 1640/1600 line. As for the trigger, they had two; one is a standard Mauser trigger modified to use the side safety and the other made by Timney, as an option. The Mauser style is easy to tweak by a professional or a skilled hobbyist.
There were also higher grades available with extra fancy wood and engraving...

In Sweden, they made "utility grade" rifles, sometimes even using beech for the stocks, but they also had the top of the line available. But you have to remember that from the post-war 'til the '70s, most of the rifles were still quite basic by design...

As for the Carl Gustav 3000, they are just a rebranded Sauer 80/90 and the CG 4000 is the Sauer 200.

I can't disagree about the 1900 and even the 2000 being good rifles - of "modern" design comared to the "classic' 1640. Sadly, the CG 2000 - which was to be put into production for 1992 but never happened to - have never been a Swedish made rifle. They are outsourced products.
The Zoli AZ1900 are pretty rifles.
 
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Buckmastr said:
How would you tweak the 1600 trigger? Pictures or description would be very handy. Thanks!
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Polishing the mating surfaces without changing the angles is a start. The spring can be replaced too, but for safety, shouldn't go under a minimum of 3.5 lbs of pull. I don't want to get too deep into it because I've seen horrible "jobs" done by people trying to do it themselves. If you never did it before, because the spare parts aren't that easy to come by, maybe should you bring it to a competent gunsmith who knows Mausers.

But, yes, the Internet if full of info, but also full of people who screwed up things...
 
Thanks Baribal.

The best trigger I have on a Mauser has Timney written on the side of it.
Further, my gunsmith suggested that the best thing you can do to a Mauser trigger is replace it with an aftermarket one.

Anyone make an aftermarket trigger specifically for a 1600 series Husqvarna? 2.5 lbs & fully adjustable?
 
Buckmastr said:
Thanks Baribal.

The best trigger I have on a Mauser has Timney written on the side of it.
Further, my gunsmith suggested that the best thing you can do to a Mauser trigger is replace it with an aftermarket one.

Anyone make an aftermarket trigger specifically for a 1600 series Husqvarna? 2.5 lbs & fully adjustable?
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Yes there are 2 for the 1600/1640 action.
The Dayton Traister DMT-96 MK2 and the Huber Concepts version.
 
Timney were supposed to make a run of the HVA-Tradewinds trigger but for whatever reasons it never happened (heard it has something to do with the licensing still owned by the Tradewinds successors). But huntingfamily got you good directions. The Mauser Timneys work. but you need to carve the side on the stock to accomodate the safety lever.

Maybe your gunsmith isn't into Mauser... I have target rifles using standard Mauser triggers and they are darned good...
 
How do you guys find the 1640 action in terms of tolerances. I have a number of the 94/96 and 98 actions and I certainly don't mind the "wobbly bolt" as it serves it purpose. Old Brno actions are no different either. Although pre 64 model 70s are relatively tight and smooth.
 
It's not "tolerance" it's clearance. Just remember that the Mauser actions were designed to be used under very harsh conditions, i.e. battlefield of the late 19th century. It works just fine since then. HVA 1640 are just that, a Mauser action, an hybrid of M/94 and M/98 features, using the same tolerances and clearances. The wobbling have nothing to do with quality, it's a feature of the Mauser design.
 
Baribal said:
It's not "tolerance" it's clearance. Just remember that the Mauser actions were designed to be used under very harsh conditions, i.e. battlefield of the late 19th century. It works just fine since then. HVA 1640 are just that, a Mauser action, an hybrid of M/94 and M/98 features, using the same tolerances and clearances. The wobbling have nothing to do with quality, it's a feature of the Mauser design.
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Thanks, yes I agree and I have no issues with 98 actions. I'm a huge fan. I was just curious if the 1640 would compare more to 98 or a Win mod 70 for example. I have my answer.
 
No worries, I understand , the "wobbling" or "slop" questionning comes up quite often, even saw sales reps telling customers not to buy a good Mauser against a Savage, for example.. for that silly reason. CNC and investment casting-made firearms are good, but they lack the "something else" a forged action milled on several steps with jigs and all the hand tuning done to it have...
 
I have a few Huskies, 1600, 1640, 1651 and 1900. I believe they are probably one of the best value quality rifles available in these times of plastic fantastic mass produced wanna be's. All of mine shoot, they're not fussy, some of them shoot exceptionally well, unaltered from factory except for some simple tuning of the trigger. From memory I think only 2 of them are bedded, all the others work with no indication of the the problem sometimes seen in many long tang rifles - the split stock behind the tang. The quality for a rifle produced in the 50's, 60's and 70's is amazing. The tolerances are exceptional. And from all my research they are one of the strongest bolt actions available. I would suggest buying every good looking Husky in any calibre you can find...........cos a man cant have too many guns!
 
Tons of good info here. Although, I must say that the older models are fabulous rifles too. 146, 246, 640 etc....I have been particularly impressed with my FN actions. 640 series....I believe. Although looking through all the old threads with our internet Swede authorities, Baribal, Kriggavaer, DkPhillips etc. It does get somewhat difficult to follow. Ex: I've read that the Husqvarna 646, 648, 649 models could have either M96/94 action or a M98/Fn 98 action. Seems odd, being completely different actions.
 
As collectors, we used to deal altogether in the past. Some past away, others vanished.
The model 246 and 46AN are quite hard to come by as per there were only 227 and 228 units made of each.
As for the 640 denomination we don't know what motivated HVA to use that moniker for the rifles made of both actions, but they called the M/38 series Repeterstudsare Modell 640 (Magazine Repeater) and the M/98 Modifieringar av Modell 640 (Modified)
 
"Budget" is not quantifiable but I was grouping it with the Remington 700 and Savage 110. But I admit I didn’t know what the 1640 sold for when new.
Can you explain why Trade Ex sells 1900s for about 30% more than 1600 series?
Those original optional Timneys, were they made in the USA? I have one that is so stamped but I thought it was aftermarket.
 
Sir Plus said:
Can you explain why Trade Ex sells 1900s for about 30% more than 1600 series?
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Do not think is so much about "worth" or "value" or "comparable" - I am quite sure they sell at the price that they can get for it, in the quantities that are appropriate to them. The "market" at work - does not have to be "rational"... How much is a roll of toilet paper worth? - how much is it selling for now? - how much was it recently selling for? ...
 
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