Which Press Should I Buy?

Ozzi said:
Hey All,

I suppose I left some crucial information out from my original post.

I'm planning on primarily reloading handgun calibers to start. (9mm, .40SW, and .45acp).

I will however be reloading .308, and 6.5 Creedmoor down the road.

I'm thinking a progressive would be ideal for the higher volume when it comes to the handgun calibers. Now a single stage will be something i'd look into for the rifle rounds, as those will be much lower volumes.

I'm going to grab a couple of manuals to start, and i'll read through those to get an idea for it. As for the kits. Can those be easily brought up from the states? ie. no export permits needed?
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You will run some numbers for where you are. After paying for the reloading tools, then you need to buy bullets, powder and primers (if you can find them) and have a source for useable brass. Some people new to the game are "shocked" by how much dollars that they have to lay out - but they have enough stuff to load up, say 500 rounds, but their thinking was that they used to buy 20 or 50 cartridges at a time - never had that much dollars tied up in "stuff" for ammo. Has been posted by more than one person on CGN that they did not see sense in reloading for 9mm, compared to what they can (or could) buy it for. Keep that in mind.

You mention loading for 308 Win - I have been doing so since late 1970's - the load that we use today was "worked up" in mid 1980's and we have had no reason to change that. Speer 165 grain bullets - you buy them in boxes or packages of 100 or 500 bullets - I have 447 of them left on hand. Our powder load gets 152 rounds from a pound, if I do not spill any. And Large Rifle primers - one for each round - whether plinking load, pressure series or for hunting load. And brass. Most of our current 308 Win brass (1,000's of them) are on their 4th or 5th loading and still seem fine to use again. I have no clue how long they will last. I do not know the costs that you will face now and where you are - something you ought to figure out before you start.

For some of us, there is an element of "want to make them myself" - partially how we justify our reloading hobby - but others do not always see it that way. Some will say that you can make better than factory rounds, but many folks that I know do not shoot enough to prove that on a target - they think the reloaded rounds are "cheaper" than factory ammo, somehow, which may or may not be the case, if you do not count your time or amortize the reloading tool purchases ... In my own case, I believe that I have fired a LOT more rounds because I reloaded, versus if I was buying factory ammo. In "old days" was 85 grain 243 Win, 165 grain 308 Win and 225 grain 338 Win Mag - there has been multiple additions since then.
 
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Janeau said:
A Dillon 650/750 is not a good choice for someone starting reloading. The auto indexing is a pain in the ass if you make a mistake.
Cost of changing caliber is way more than a 550. Since the OP want to reload rifle down the road, the 550 is a way better choice.
You can easily turn out 350/550 rounds an hour on a 550. If you have screw up on a 650/750 you won’t do much more than that.

For rifle rounds, converting a 650/750 to load 100 rounds make no sense. Just a waste of time and money( conversion kit)

The main problem with progressive is the brass : Glock bulged case, crimped or too tight primer pocket create havoc in no time on a 650/750. Unless you buy a case interruptor, primer interruptor you are loosing quite a bit of time fixing it.
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I dont agree with you on this. I've owned both 550-650's and while the 550 is an excellent press, it can never be a 650 but the 650/750 can be made into a manual rotary press (which is what a 550 is, they are not a "progressive") by simply removing 2 small screws and returning to full progressive status with reinstallation of the two screws...the total time of changeover is seconds. Use a 650 as a slow manual rotary until confident to handle in progressive state....spend your money once and load at your pace.
 
Well, my input. I recently got an RCBS - uh, what's it called? - the fancy new one that the primers exit through the ram. It SUUUUUCKS. Loosey goosey. Cast in China.

I had a rockchucker passed down from my dad from the 80s I believe, and it was so much better.

Honestly, I'm more happy with my LEE press than this new RCBS. It's truly disappointing.

To be perfectly honest, that little LEE kit they sell if just fine. The press is fine, has good spent primer handling and the on press priming is actually very good. I've mostly moved on from LEE stuff to more premium stuff as experience and money has allowed but it was a FANTASTIC starting point. I wouldn't have wanted to start on what I have now. When the time comes, I will be buying my sons the LEE starter kit with a few additions, most notably a good digital scale.

Edit: it's a "Rebel". Stay away.
 
ALBERTA BOY said:
Well, my input. I recently got an RCBS - uh, what's it called? - the fancy new one that the primers exit through the ram. It SUUUUUCKS. Loosey goosey. Cast in China.

I had a rockchucker passed down from my dad from the 80s I believe, and it was so much better.

Honestly, I'm more happy with my LEE press than this new RCBS. It's truly disappointing.

To be perfectly honest, that little LEE kit they sell if just fine. The press is fine, has good spent primer handling and the on press priming is actually very good. I've mostly moved on from LEE stuff to more premium stuff as experience and money has allowed but it was a FANTASTIC starting point. I wouldn't have wanted to start on what I have now. When the time comes, I will be buying my sons the LEE starter kit with a few additions, most notably a good digital scale.

Edit: it's a "Rebel". Stay away.
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I'd contact rcbs about it, they might swap it for a better one.

I'm also a fan of older cast iron RC presses and the like.
Once had an RCBS RS/reloader special with cast aluminium O-frame, didn't like it much at all.
 
For single stage press,
1.A used Area419 Zero press is probably around 1100-1200, a brand new one is just above your budget.
2.Turban press, would be about at the upper range of your budget, depends on the exchange rate with Euro and you need to wait for 2-3 months.
3.Forster co-ax press is the next level you can, a lot of precision shooter use it, about 600

For Progressive,
Dillon 750 XL is the only quality one within your budget, depends on what accessories you want, it could add a lot of cost to it.
 
I ran a RCBS RC IV and a Dillon 550. I've since sold my 550 and gone all in with a 1050. The presses show my ammo useage . The RCBS for my bolt actions and the 1050 for semiautomatics/pistol.
 
fingers284 said:
I dont agree with you on this. I've owned both 550-650's and while the 550 is an excellent press, it can never be a 650 but the 650/750 can be made into a manual rotary press (which is what a 550 is, they are not a "progressive") by simply removing 2 small screws and returning to full progressive status with reinstallation of the two screws...the total time of changeover is seconds. Use a 650 as a slow manual rotary until confident to handle in progressive state....spend your money once and load at your pace.
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Yeah I don't know why someone would go for a 550 over a 750 for primarily loading handgun ammo. The 750 is easier to add accessories like a case feeder or bullet feeder, too.
 
If you’ve never reloaded before, start out with some of the least expensive equipment. You will soon learn if reloading is something you really want to get into. If you upgrade in the future you can always sell your older stuff but you’ll probably keep it for other purposes.
 
ALBERTA BOY said:
Well, my input. I recently got an RCBS - uh, what's it called? - the fancy new one that the primers exit through the ram. It SUUUUUCKS. Loosey goosey. Cast in China.

I had a rockchucker passed down from my dad from the 80s I believe, and it was so much better.

Honestly, I'm more happy with my LEE press than this new RCBS. It's truly disappointing.

To be perfectly honest, that little LEE kit they sell if just fine. The press is fine, has good spent primer handling and the on press priming is actually very good. I've mostly moved on from LEE stuff to more premium stuff as experience and money has allowed but it was a FANTASTIC starting point. I wouldn't have wanted to start on what I have now. When the time comes, I will be buying my sons the LEE starter kit with a few additions, most notably a good digital scale.

Edit: it's a "Rebel". Stay away.
Click to expand...

I have a Lyman turret I bought new and have used for almost 50 years, and wore it out (parts no longer available); I bought a Frankford M press that arrived broken, and I enquired about parts, and was told they don't ship "parts" to Canada. It went back. Bought a Rock Chucker Supreme, brand new, and no regrets. I have upgraded it with a Lee quick change bushing system. I use it only for rifle. Solid, smooth operating; I prime on the bench with a Lee Autoprime.

I would suggest for anyone new, keep it simple; go with a good single stage. If you upgrade to progressives, you still have the single stage for "rework" as required (I kept my Lyman for that purpose).

I did load pistol ammo on the Lyman as well, but have since bought a couple used Lee Pro1000 progressive presses. Not the best out there, but if you are mechanical, they work very well. I have one set up for large pistol primers for my .45, and the other is set up with small Pistol Primer feed for 9mm, .38/357, and I have loaded .40 S&W on it as well I have extra turrets for each caliber. I don't have a problem with them, but they must be kept clean to feed primers properly. I would not recommend these for a beginner.

Everyone should have a Rock Chucker Supreme; steel and cast iron.
 
OP, My 2 cents.

If you are reloading bulk pistol, 223, and 308 mainly, the way to go is a progressive.

Contrary to what a lot of people say reloading (unless you are looking to squeeze the ultimate accuracy out of your cartridge and rifle) is not rocket science. For rile accuracy I use a good quality single stage.

For bulk pistol, unless you really love to tinker, enjoy exploding primers when seating, love being frustrated, spending more time adjusting and clearing jams on the press than actually reloading, and buying cheap moulded plastic or cast or mim parts from the manufacturer, my advice is buy once cry once.

Stay away from Lee progressives or you will 99.999% experience all of the above.

I have been reloading since the very early 1980’s, started with a turret style press that is no longer made, and progressed through various single stages, turret presses, and several progressives.

I currently have a hornady lock n load ammo plant, have been using it for about 7 years, and constantly kick myself for not buying a Dillon 650 or 750.

The shell plate continually becomes loose when reloading bulk (I typically reload a thousand rounds at a time) and the indexing when using the bullet and case feeder is not the greatest.

I have friends with the 650 and they just seem to work once set up.

The hornady lock n load still requires tinkering, and while not a bad press, is in my opinion not even close to being in the same class as the 650 / 750.

Pro tip - when looking for a press search on you tube and if you find a ton of video’s on DIY fixes, improvements, or problems other people are experiencing, do yourself a favour and just stay away. Lee progressives and hornady lock n load AP presses fall into this class.

Once you know how to set up dies, a progressive is not that much more complicated than a single stage, you are just doing multiple steps in the reloading process at the same time.

My 2 pesos.
 
I had the same issue with the shell plate loosening on my hornady as well. A .50 cent lock ring from Home Depot has prevented it from happening again.
 
I have the Dillon 650 with the case feeder for 9mm, 44mag and 223. Reloaded 6k plus rounds of 9mm, no issues. Plus dillion has iron no fuss lifetime warranty which is rarely needed. I used warranty once for fractured clear plastic part of the case feeder. Not a stress point. I think it was arrived broken.

I'll probably want another dillion eventually. A 750 this time and set it up for large primer.

Have not tried any other presses and picked it because everyone who has one swears by it.

A 1050 would be awesome but I can't justify it.

I will look into single stage one day for precision loads.
 
To the OP,

If you are just starting out and want to get a feel of reloading without going all in this is my recommendation.
The Lee Breechlock Hand press kit https://leeprecision.com/breech-lock-hand-press-kit.html
Why this particular one?

- can use regular size dies from most manufacturers
- can resize brass from mouse calibers all the way up to magnum size (I've resized 416 ruger down to 375 ruger using mine)
- allows a tactile feel of the reloading process, and forces you to go slow and steady while you learn.
- Even if you go all in later and buy a full bench-press setup you can still use the lee hand press later at the range for load testing .
- or just keep it and use it for hand priming or resizing while watching TV.
- you can take the extra $$$ and spend it on dies, useful reloading doodads, brass, powder, primers and projectiles
- you can keep all your reloading equipment in a toolbox and not have to dedicate a specific workspace to it.
- you can relax on the couch watching a movie while priming or resizing brass. I don't recommend charging powder lying on the couch.

I don't know what caliber you will be reloading for, but here is what I purchased to get started reloading .308 Win:

I include the Lee SKU #'s where applicable


Breech Lock Hand Press Kit SKU 90180 $94.00
308 WIN ULTIMATE DIE SET SKU 90695 $74.00
GAGE/HOLDER 308 WIN SKU 90139 $8.00
CASE CONDTIONING COMBO SKU 90950 $12.98
Powder Measure Kit SKU 90100 $14.98
2021 MODERN RELOADING 2ND ED SKU 90277 $40.98
digital scale (don't buy the very cheapest on amazon but some of the el cheapos are fine according to youtube reloading reviews) OR a balance scale


Other very useful things to consider :

Decapping Die SKU 90292 $14.98
SPLINE DRIVE BREECH LOCK BUSHING 4-PACK SKU 90095 $27.00

You can start with this setup and upgrade later, or be like me and just stick with this setup.
I reload for several calibers of bolt-action rifles and only go to the range once a month so I don't need to churn out thousands of rounds a session.

Other things to keep in mind:
- nearly any die will work with this press (except for very huge magnums or .50BMG)
- everything you buy in this setup can be carried forward if you upgrade to another press
- buy the Lee manual it's the most comprehensive reloading book and talks about using their equipment.
- don't trust loads you find on the internet until you doublecheck in a loading manual
- Always start your loads at the lowest powder charges when you are just learning to reload. I still do.
- Powder is hard to find so I mostly shoot at the max 200 yards of my club with the least amount of powder necessary.

Cheers
 
Markit said:
OP, My 2 cents.

If you are reloading bulk pistol, 223, and 308 mainly, the way to go is a progressive.

Contrary to what a lot of people say reloading (unless you are looking to squeeze the ultimate accuracy out of your cartridge and rifle) is not rocket science. For rile accuracy I use a good quality single stage.

For bulk pistol, unless you really love to tinker, enjoy exploding primers when seating, love being frustrated, spending more time adjusting and clearing jams on the press than actually reloading, and buying cheap moulded plastic or cast or mim parts from the manufacturer, my advice is buy once cry once.

Stay away from Lee progressives or you will 99.999% experience all of the above.

I have been reloading since the very early 1980’s, started with a turret style press that is no longer made, and progressed through various single stages, turret presses, and several progressives.

I currently have a hornady lock n load ammo plant, have been using it for about 7 years, and constantly kick myself for not buying a Dillon 650 or 750.

The shell plate continually becomes loose when reloading bulk (I typically reload a thousand rounds at a time) and the indexing when using the bullet and case feeder is not the greatest.

I have friends with the 650 and they just seem to work once set up.

The hornady lock n load still requires tinkering, and while not a bad press, is in my opinion not even close to being in the same class as the 650 / 750.

Pro tip - when looking for a press search on you tube and if you find a ton of video’s on DIY fixes, improvements, or problems other people are experiencing, do yourself a favour and just stay away. Lee progressives and hornady lock n load AP presses fall into this class.

Once you know how to set up dies, a progressive is not that much more complicated than a single stage, you are just doing multiple steps in the reloading process at the same time.

My 2 pesos.
Click to expand...

I still advocate learning with a single stage; still lots of room to make errors but you only f*** up one at a time instead of half a batch. Transition to a progressive is much easier if one does it based on experience.
 
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