Which reamer

I

ivo

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So after a fair amount of research and asking around (thanks CGNers) I have decided to start buyng parts for a new build.
I decided on a 6SLR for the build and need to get a reamer. The 2 that I have found so far are the Pacific Tool and Gauge and the JGS.

Does anyone have any thoughts on these? Is there another reamer out there that I should be looking at?

Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ivo
 
Pacific tool and gauge have fantastic knowledge and great prints but seldom does the reamer match the print. Send a dummy round to JGS and make sure they use a shallow angle into the lands. If you want the best reamer get a Henricksen but be prepared for a long wait.
 
Canuck525 said:
Pacific tool and gauge have fantastic knowledge and great prints but seldom does the reamer match the print. Send a dummy round to JGS and make sure they use a shallow angle into the lands. If you want the best reamer get a Henricksen but be prepared for a long wait.
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X2 on PTG not making a reamer to size. I will never deal with those assclowns again. Clymer, or JGS will be the next reamers I buy.
 
how aboubt asking Henry in calgary or hi pro precision in brandon both guys I think build 6slr, and let me know I am looking at one as well Jefferson
 
I already got the reamer print from a guy on 6mmbr and its worked for a few of his builds. That reamer was built by JGS so I guess thats the route I'll go.

Jefferson said:
how aboubt asking Henry in calgary or hi pro precision in brandon both guys I think build 6slr, and let me know I am looking at one as well Jefferson
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Henry will probably do the build for me but doesn't have the reamer.
 
they both make accurate reamers but i like jgs... the jgs will outlast a ptg by a large margin. be careful if getting one of the reamers designed by whitley. he uses really sloppy necks for his fullbore rifles. get one throated for the bullet you want to use and get it with a .272 neck
 
paperslayer said:
they both make accurate reamers but i like jgs... the jgs will outlast a ptg by a large margin. be careful if getting one of the reamers designed by whitley. he uses really sloppy necks for his fullbore rifles. get one throated for the bullet you want to use and get it with a .272 neck
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Why the short neck? Isn't the whole point of this cartridge to have a longer neck to prevent throat erosion, seat longer bullets...

Not trying to argue here, just trying to educate myself before I order the reamer
 
ivo said:
Why the short neck? Isn't the whole point of this cartridge to have a longer neck to prevent throat erosion, seat longer bullets...

Not trying to argue here, just trying to educate myself before I order the reamer
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That's neck diameter but be very careful . I don't know what case it is based off but you want to make a dummy round and measure it. If it measures 0.272 then you would want to make the chamber bigger unless you want to turn necks. It also depends on the brass you will use.
Ie. when using a 7mm08 if you were to neck up Lapua 260 brass you would also have to neck turn the brass .Lapua brass is much thicker and therefore can create a dangerous situation. You really got to check things.
It is best to find out more info first and talk to the reamer maker.
 
I base my reamers off of the sizing die and brand of brass I want to use, prepared the way I want to use it. The cost is usually the same or very close to the same for a custom reamer, so why get an off-the-shelf one that is maybe not ideal? My $0.02...
 
My 6 slr reamer comes from PTG and I have a .274 neck and I dont find it sloppy ,the 243 brass needs to be skim turned to give the right clearance.

It is throated for 105's at .120" freebore X .2435" diameter .

I find Jgs reamers seem to cut more evenly across the flutes than PTG but they both work and Ptg is cheaper to buy.
 
The neck on this print is .2755. This neck was recommended for no turning on Rem or Win brass and as stated the Lapua, Norma and Nosler all have thicker necks resulting in having to neck turn.
Ivo
 
Robert Whitley recomends using win brass he told me this in a conversation we had a few years ago, he said it formed up better because the shoulder material was the same thickness as the neck.

When I built my first slr I experimented with lapua brass only to confirm what Robert told me to begin with, the win brass shoots just as good as the lapua in the slr without having to deal with the donut caused by the thicker shoulder material in the lapua brass.

Imo you would also be better off using a .274 neck and skiming the necks for more consistent results.
 
coyote said:
Robert Whitley recomends using win brass he told me this in a conversation we had a few years ago, he said it formed up better because the shoulder material was the same thickness as the neck.

When I built my first slr I experimented with lapua brass only to confirm what Robert told me to begin with, the win brass shoots just as good as the lapua in the slr without having to deal with the donut caused by the thicker shoulder material in the lapua brass.

Imo you would also be better off using a .274 neck and skiming the necks for more consistent results.
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Thanks for the advice, I'll talk to my gunsmith about that.
How many 6 SLRs have you built? Opinions? Favorite loads?

I think the first bullet I'll try will be the Berger 105 hybrids.(Although that probably won't be till next year by the time I get all of the components here and have the gun built).
Thanks,
Ivo
 
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