Which Starting kit Get ? My Dealer Said LEE is JUNK

There's nothing wrong with Lee gear. It generally does the job just fine.

It is more cheaply made and that shows in the look and feel of a lot what they make.

It just depends on your attitude, if you don't really mind aluminum and 'mystery metal' parts, stamped linkages, flaking paint, machining marks, etc. as long as the job gets done properly, Lee will be fine. Definitely a great way to start out. Some of their designs are very clever and unique and some of their tools are the very best tool for the job at hand.

Chevy or Cadillac, both will get you to town, one costs more but the ride is smoother and is nicer to look at...
 
a lot of the primer beefs are OPERATOR ERROR , and not understanding the system- like i said, i've got 3 of the 1000 and the first thing i did was introduce a 15 degree forward tilt and swing that stupid case sensor out of the way- now i get a primer whether there's a case there or not- if there's no case , you simply extract the presented primer with a pair of needlenose and put it back in the detachable tray- i drilled a small hole in the cover( there's even a convient place marked in the primer tray cover for this)to facilitate this- the second thing is b/c it's a GRAVITY feed, it has to be KEPT CLEAN- you get a powder spill, you get in there with compressed air and blow it out-RIGHT NOW- AND YOU REFILL WHEN THERE ARE NO MORE PRIMERS IN THE TRAY- not when the feed tray is empty- that's where your tipped and crushed primers come in- there's not enough primers in the system to FORCE the pimer into the CENTRE of the pin- it gets caught between the pin and the carrier casing and tips.- if you MUST use the last 10/12 primers in the tray, put a bamboo scewer ora pencil down the "pipe" and push that way it centres the primer on the pin- lastly some guys on this board have put o rings on that rod to give the pin a bit more "bump" as well- btw, do NOT do the 15 degree forward tilt on a 1000 set up for 223- when you do that on a 223, it sends the decapping pin out of centre- it's fine for the pistol calibers
 
Admittedly, I am not a fan of most Lee equipment, namely the Lee 1000, but their case trimming solution is the best in terms of cost/speed/effort. There's no need to buy a kit: Get yourself some dies w/shell holders, a good single stage press, lube pad w/lube, case length caliper, chamfering/deburring tool, Calibre specific Lee case length trimmer/length gauges, at least one good manual, scales and a drop-powder dispenser. This set-up has served me for over eighteen years of relaoding and many thousands of reloads.
 
I have a Lee 1000 progressive. Just made some 9mm tonight. I am tired of missed primers, tipped primers. I hate pulling 15% of the bullets.

The Lee is going to be replaced with a Dillon, and soon. Just need to figure out which model, and from who.

It is very simple, the primer path must be kept CLEAN, meaning no traces of grease/oil. Use a bit of solvent/alcohol to get out any traces.

I don't have a 1000, but do have a LoadMaster, and once I figured out that little maintenance tip, no problems since.
 
My first press was a Lee 3 hole turret back in 87. Still using it. Then I bought a Lee Load All II same year. Then when the Shotshell progressive came out, bought that. It didn't fair too well and Lee does not make it anymore. It is finicky but once you really know what you're doing and pay attention its OK. Picked up a Lee C press at a flee market and use that for sizing bullets cast from Lee Aluminum molds. Mounted my Lee powder thrower right beside it. Whenever the Club has a competition I can always walk away with one of the top 3 using handloads from my cheap red Lee equipment.
Your dealer in Montreal sucks.
 
a lot of the primer beefs are OPERATOR ERROR , and not understanding the system- like i said, i've got 3 of the 1000 and the first thing i did was introduce a 15 degree forward tilt and swing that stupid case sensor out of the way- now i get a primer whether there's a case there or not- if there's no case , you simply extract the presented primer with a pair of needlenose and put it back in the detachable tray- i drilled a small hole in the cover( there's even a convient place marked in the primer tray cover for this)to facilitate this- the second thing is b/c it's a GRAVITY feed, it has to be KEPT CLEAN- you get a powder spill, you get in there with compressed air and blow it out-RIGHT NOW- AND YOU REFILL WHEN THERE ARE NO MORE PRIMERS IN THE TRAY- not when the feed tray is empty- that's where your tipped and crushed primers come in- there's not enough primers in the system to FORCE the pimer into the CENTRE of the pin- it gets caught between the pin and the carrier casing and tips.- if you MUST use the last 10/12 primers in the tray, put a bamboo scewer ora pencil down the "pipe" and push that way it centres the primer on the pin- lastly some guys on this board have put o rings on that rod to give the pin a bit more "bump" as well- btw, do NOT do the 15 degree forward tilt on a 1000 set up for 223- when you do that on a 223, it sends the decapping pin out of centre- it's fine for the pistol calibers

and you consider this "OPERATOR ERROR"?? :) you sound a little like my Dad used to talk about a used car he talked me into buying from a friend of his, "Stops just fine, you just have to crank the steering wheel to the left when you hit the brakes and to start it you have to pump the gas three times, not four, just three...oh and here's a flashlight cause the headlights don't work if the heater is on, but its a great car!"
 
It is very simple, the primer path must be kept CLEAN, meaning no traces of grease/oil. Use a bit of solvent/alcohol to get out any traces.

I don't have a 1000, but do have a LoadMaster, and once I figured out that little maintenance tip, no problems since.

Thanks, I'll give 'er a clean & lube. I do keep an air hose on the bench to clean the spilled powder after a missed primer. Priming pin is new.

I read up on the other presses, seems primer feed are the bug common to all.

Guess I'll keep the Lee for a bit..
 
There's no reason you can't use a turret press for rifle caliber reloading.

Just remember... the cases are too long for some Turret presses (in this case the Lee) to auto-index. They bind (hit) on the die bodies when the turret turns. You can do it by removing the indexing rod and turning the turret manually to the next station.

PRIMER ISSUES.... All presses will not be 100% reliable with the primers. The only system that is totally reliable is if you prime your cases separately with a hand primer press or in a single stage. My Loadmaster munches primers every so often.

Even with Dillon, the machines here have some upside-down primers or tilted primers etc for every batch they do.

Chevy or Cadillac, both will get you to town, one costs more but the ride is smoother and is nicer to look at...

I'll take the Chevy over the ugly Cadillac every time. :)
 
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I too, was going to say to skip the powder trickler.
I had one, so seldom used it that I gave it away.
Why do you need to top up with some type of trickle anyway?
If you are a bench rest competitor, maybe. But it was interesting a few days ago, to see a very prominent bench rest shooter on these threads, state that half a grain of powder difference in a load, made no difference to the impact of the bullet of his 308, at ranges of 600 yards, or under. (I hope I have this paraphrased correctly.)
An ordinary, old fashioned powder measure, gives even enough charges of rifle loadings, for any normal shooting.
Just set the measure and load your ammo.
For very small numers of loadings, where you are not using the powder measure, just trickle them up from powder in a rifle case.
 
H4831,
yes I believe that was the jist of the statement. I very much respect the experience of that gentleman. I have also read a statement from another qualified contributor that one tenth can have an effect in a 223 cartridge.

I'l keep trickling until I can shoot straight. :)
 
and you consider this "OPERATOR ERROR"?? :) you sound a little like my Dad used to talk about a used car he talked me into buying from a friend of his, "Stops just fine, you just have to crank the steering wheel to the left when you hit the brakes and to start it you have to pump the gas three times, not four, just three...oh and here's a flashlight cause the headlights don't work if the heater is on, but its a great car!"

complain to lee and see what they say- i've got letters to prove "operator error"- you don't have 1000's for as many years as i have without picking up a few hints along the way- besides most reloading equipment is like underwear' NON- RETURNABLE- so either fix it , learn to live with it, or god forbid find some poor unenlightened sap to pawn it off on- now nobody here would do that , right?
 
or god forbid find some poor unenlightened sap to pawn it off on- now nobody here would do that , right?

nope, certainly not me...as far I know sold that flaky Dillon I sold to that schmuck...errr...esteemed gentleman, had only done 1,000 or so rounds, well maybe a few more than a thousand, certainly no more than 100,000 :rolleyes:
 
I have the Challenger kit. Not a fan. I sliced the scale up into little pieces. The trimmer packed it in after about 200 cases. The press isn't bad, it just feels cheap. I wish I would have saved my money for something better - like a Forster co-ax.
 
Your dealer is full of s**t. Everything I use is Lee, except for some tools they don't make.

It makes great ammo and I've never had a problem with any of their gear. Part of the proposition of reloading is the economy of it; Lee helps you save money way sooner.

Soon the RCBS fanboys will be along to tell you otherwise.

Exactly 10X's....Lee is fine unless you plan on going into manufacturing.

Petra K.
 
I have the Challenger kit. Not a fan. I sliced the scale up into little pieces. The trimmer packed it in after about 200 cases. The press isn't bad, it just feels cheap. I wish I would have saved my money for something better - like a Forster co-ax.

The scale is a good for checking you set your scale right. ;) For the cost to get started if you only use the press and the primer pocket cleaner once you have upgraded everything else your still winning.
 
Ok I might not be able to go at Higginson Powders for next couple of weeks so Im gonna try to have it ship.

I want you guys to check my gear to make sure I get the right things

I got the point about to the turret for rifle so im gonna get a C press

Do I pick

-Breech lock challenger kit $173
or
-50th anniversary kit $154

I need a poweder mesure I think
-Pro auto disc pder mesure $60

for the priming tool I dont what I need :confused:

Auto prime II $24 with the shell holder set $40 ?

DO I buy at the same time the Lee case trim Or Im better off wait a little until I really need one and buy a $100 Lyman or RCBS ( think i can mod these with a power drill) ?

Lee Zip trim cost $28.50

I also need Dies , im confuse dunno which one to get there whole section of dies in there price list.
Lee deluxe collet set for 270WSM $49.50
I can also get other dies here at Dante in Montreal RCBS LYMAN REDDING ... dunno price dunno if they will fit Lee press.

As for the powder and Bullet ... no ideal what to work out there.
I did some math with a formula that I found online and got this: .277 bullet with a lenght between 1.097 to 1.211 inch. Apperently this would be the best for my Ruger M77 Mk2 22inch barel 1:10 twist.

I also want powder and bullet for my Marlin 30-30 150 or 170Gr.

I found the formula Online www.hodgdon.com a bit confusing.
if they use a 150gr Sierra RN bullet with "X" powder can I use another bran 150gr RN bullet and use the same recepie ? or the bullet bran make the recepies change even if it the same weight.

Thanks for help guys
 
Andrew has the 50th aniversary press on his site at reloaders.ca. $143. You'l get your powder measure and priming tool in that, trimmer, case prep tool etc.

Any dies will fit. Check out the prices of dies and other stuff at Dantes, before ordering those, because dantes has some good prices on stuff. Their specials flyer usually beat everyone else hands down. You get a shell holder with Lee dies usually.

You'l also need primers, brass, powder and bullets. Again check around for the prices on these things.
 
Ok I might not be able to go at Higginson Powders for next couple of weeks so Im gonna try to have it ship.

I want you guys to check my gear to make sure I get the right things

I got the point about to the turret for rifle so im gonna get a C press

Do I pick

-Breech lock challenger kit $173
or
-50th anniversary kit $154

I need a poweder mesure I think
-Pro auto disc pder mesure $60

for the priming tool I dont what I need :confused:
snip
Thanks for help guys

The Lee C press part number 90045 is excellent for seating bullets but in the long run you won't be happy with the flex in it when you full length resize in some calibers. I have one that is used only for seating bullets - never to resize.


The 50th lee anniversary kit would be the way I would go.
You want a D frame press rather than a C frame.
 
One comes with an "on-press" priming option and the other comes with the hand primer. Go for the hand primer version (sorry - don't know which it is).
 
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